Hi Miami Beach The washer is 120V. The different model numbers seem to just be newer versions - but the specs on the latest versions seem indentical. We are happy with the washer. It does NOT have an internal water heater - so you will have to be sure that the water reaching the washer is hot. I'm thinking of adding a simple instant water heater, about $200 like the kind commonly used under a kitchen sink - to make sure that washer always draws hot water when it wants to. Right now - I tend to just run a nearby tap prior to wanting a hot water fill. The washing machine seems to wash quite a bit better than our old top loader did. It's not the quiestest washing machine - but it is hardly a bothersome noise either. The sounds are less "boomy" i.e. less "bass" than what a top loader would produce - likely due to less volume of water or mass. Apparently the Maytag branded version has automatic temperature control on some water temp settings - which means is basically runs water down the drain for you - until it gets hot - then fills with water. Personally, I prefer my idea to install an adjacent, simple, easy, electric instant water heater. They maytag version was recalled and ultimately discontinued in Canada, as for some reason, Maytag's version had problems with potential fires from the motor - did not control itself as well. As a fix - Maytag simply sent people GFI outlets?? This according the web - and a good service tech. Speaking of service tech - my complaint about the pair would be about the dryer - not the washing machine. The dryer is slower - but I expect this of a compact dryer. It also has a very tiny heating element. The plus - it never gets too hot, so less damage possible to your clothes. My real complaint about the dryer is that the sensor simply does not work right. I set it to "damp dry" - the least dry setting, and the dryer still completely dries out the clothes - and keeps drying for about 20 minutes after the clothes are already completely dry. I have had the first dryer completely replaced, the second dryer a sensor replaced all under warranty - but they continue to act the same. Serivce tech who was over told me they use inferior sensors in the asian machines - more of a temperature sensor than a proper humidty sensor. Now with a reno going on - they dryer is in an unheated room - temperatures around 44 to 55 Farenheit - so perhaps when it is back at normal room temp it will be okay. Since we got the pair for such a ridiculously good deal - we have decided to live with it if need to - and probably switch to a manual timed dry to prevent over drying. Samsung customer service in Canada has been very good - they have been quite willing to address the problem - a cuple times - even though so far - no success. We'll have to wait and see when the room temperatures are back to normal. Our prior bottom of the line GE full size dryer, was able to accurately dry clothes, even in these lower room temperatures. As to the size of the machine - we can pack as much or more than we could is our extra large old Kenmore top loader - so no concerns there. The king size front load machines are quite unnecessary. They have only become so popular because customers IMO in North America, can't seem to grasp the concept that a front loader really does have a lot more room inside than what LOOKS like a comparable sized top loader. Good luck!

I was on a similar quest for a washing machine and after reading Consumer Reports and reviews in this forum and talking to everyone with a new washer and looking at the models, their features and how there were made I selected the FL Bosch 500 washer in May. It is well-built with higher quality door, top, gasket, than the others I viewed. I liked that I don't have to stoop to get the clothes out like other FL's. I didn't have space below cabinets for a pedestal, which costs more anyway. This model rated very high in Cons. Reports and the local store had not seen any come back for problems, as you will read about other products. However, be prepared to spend more time getting through your piles of laundry. With heavy cottons, no problem--they come out dryer and the increased wash time is made up with less drying time. Often it's an hour and ten minutes for a cycle with an enhanced rinse. It handles a lot of towels and jeans. However, perma press (50 minute cycle) is not as wrinkle free, even with a reduced spin and smelly clothing or dirty clothing [kids in sports, gardening clothes?] need more than one cycle. In Minn. I like having a machine to wash down comforters, hand wash wool sweaters, winter jackets & mittens. This machine was great at each of those--pillows too. Clothes can be dried extremely well with an engine like a jet plane spinning them as dry as you choose, saving drying time. The water and energy efficiency seem to come from the reliance on gravity more than immersion in water. Your clothes will be sprayed with water and once dripping wet, they bounce and sit, and bounce and sit in a small puddle of water for a LONG time. I have this machine on a second level and the noise and spinning are not much different than my previous machine, but I did ask the installer to come back and level it because there is vibration from the high speed spin and you want it level, from every direction. My kitchen is next to the laundry and I close the door if I'm using the fastest spin on heavy items. Good Luck.

@rsunley, thesweethome review was really informative, and if I take their advice, I'm spending way less than I was starting to think I'd be spending. Thanks for the good info source! @Debbi, I called SQ and got a lot of good information. 1) the second floor install is probably OK, but you never know until you try, and although it doesn't void the warranty, a vibration/noise problem is not warrantied anyway. And, since this wouldn't be a big box 30-day return situation (a la independent dealer policies and restocking fees), it would be a pricey risk I'd be taking. In fact it's a risk the most well known dealer in my area won't take at all, as they said they wouldn't sell me a SQ FL for my second floor laundry room, only the TL. @sandiego steve pointed out they are probably thinking about the 2014s, but in any case, that's what they're saying. Also, on the phone with the tech I learned that I may have a problem with the way that my hookups are configured. I'm set up for washer on left, dryer on right. The (new) dealer I talked to today said he'd be concerned about the placement of the washer's drain and the length of hose available. He said reaching the dryer vent is no problem, but reaching the washer's drain would be. I need to do some measuring and calling back. I'm starting to think SQ is not my machine. Talking to a helpful, knowledgable tech in the US made me want it even more, though!

A 120v circuit cannot run a 240v dryer, different plug types and 120v power isn't strong enough to make the machine run. You'd have to bring in an electrician to install a 240v circuit and outlet. That being said, some 240v dryers can be wired to run on either 120v or 240v power (by changing how the machine's internal wires connect at the terminal block where the cord attaches) ... but the result is that the wattage output of the heating element is 4x less at 120v than at 240v (which is where the slower drying time comes in). Of course a dryer that is already factory-wired for 120v is also 4x less wattage than a comparable 240v dryer. A dryer designed for only 120v power cannot be run on a 240v circuit. A 120v circuit can provide a maximum of 1,500 to 1,800 watts (irons, coffee makers, portable space heaters, hair dryers, etc.). A 240v 30 amp circuit can provide up to 5,600 watts (dryers, water heaters). Volts X amps = wattage. 240v x 30a = 7,200 watts ... but electrical codes limit circuit loads to 80% of the full wattage for safety reasons. Electric ranges typically are on 240v 50amp circuits (they can pull more power than an electric water heater if the oven and all the burners are on at the same time).