To expand a bit on what fertilizersalesman said about phosphourus, it is difficult to make any kind of P adding recommendation given that P is nowhere near as important to plants as it was once believed to be and the lab making recommendations may be using old info on what amount is required or newer info. My personal opinion is that the NPK way of looking at things is fundamentally broken. This doesn't just apply to organic gardeners, but even 100% synthetic commercial agriculture has for decades placed more importance on P that appears to have been wise. To this day one can find high P fertilizers promoted as bloom inducing when it is not at all true. Best I can tell the reason folks got so concerned about P is that it generally isn't very available in mineral soils in cool weather. To deal with the lack of P availability in cool soils folks got the idea that they should dump a lot more P on their soil so that the amount available would hopefully increase. This then led to the erroneous idea that high P was a good thing to get plants flowering and producing. More recent research suggests that most plants will use less P over their lifespan than they will calcium and sometimes magnesium (the ingredients in lime). To me this breaks the entire NPK concept and if we really want to over simplify plant nutrition we should replace NPK with N-Ca-K at a minimum. The good news is that in many cases elevated levels of P (such as is common in my state and certainly common in my yard) are of no real consequence because it suffers from availability problems in my northern, cool soil garden. So, even though P is elevated in a soil this doesn't mean a plant will get an excessive amount of it. We could discuss other nutrients and the common misconceptions of them, the reasons why amounts lower or higher than a soil test recommendation may or may not be important, the role of pH and how critical it is or isn't etc, but let's not :) As has been mentioned numerous times if you wish to pursue organic methods to growing things, please release your mind from NPK and pH. Start by adding organic matter and then see how things go. High amounts of organic matter in a mineral soil neatly resolve most (but not all) problems related to soil chemistry issues. It (organic matter) is the starting point.

Optimum levels of organic matter in solils is btween 5 and 8 percent, so while not quite there you are getting close. Soil pH, for most plants, is in the 6.2 to 7.0 range, so while a bit low yours is okay. Nutrients you want in balance, not too much of one and too little of another which is where the problem lies. Nutrient imbalances create more problems then they solve. Nitrogen is dependant on soil warmth, bacterial activity. When soils are cool and there is little bacterial activity there is not much N available, but as soils warm, and the bacteria become more active more N is available to the plants. Nitrogen sources with readily available N, soluble types, can make it look like there is ample N in the soil but that will also wash out of the soil quickly with excess water and is the source of nitrate pollution of ground water.

What do y'all think? That you don't seem to have much of a problem (consider yourself fortunate). Sure, the potash may be a touch low if I'm reading it right, but it should be fine for grass with organic feeding. Use soybean or alfalfa, both do contain some potash. With the alfalfa going down at a higher rate to hit the 1 pound of nitrogen at a time limit, you'd get more potash. Personally I'd use the cheapest. :-)

For free, you kind of got what you paid for here. They're not specifically telling me calcium or magnesium levels, which means I can't determine which kind of lime to use in what proportions. Yet it's quite clear that you do need lime. On the up side, I've read plenty of Piedmont tests, so I can make a valid estimate from that, I'm going to be very gentle, and we'll ride it until your Logan test next year. CEC (EC) Range 12-16: Moderate soils, probably high silt, possibly some clay. These tend to have good resource storage and are difficult to shift, but stay there once shifted. OM (HM) <1%: Extremely low. Always mulch mow, mow all fall leaves, consider organic feeding, and never let a usable organic leave the lawn. pH 5.1-5.8: A pretty wide range (a factor of five). This year, I'm targeting the pH 5.8 area across the whole lawn as we lack specific Ca/Mg data. You'll need Encap or Mag-I-Cal. Other limestone will require larger amounts, be less effective, and has elements I don't want to add. Potassium 42, 79. 97: The 79 and 97 are fine and don't need adjustment. If you want to use their recommended fertilizer for the back, I'm actually OK with that in this case as the amounts are small enough that the fact that it's potassium chloride won't matter (but split it into two applications, Memorial Day and Labor Day to lighten the amount of nitrogen flowing in at once). I'd rather see you use 3 pounds of potassium sulfate per thousand square feet in the back, however, around September 15th. Recommendations: June 1: Apply 4 pounds of Mag-I-Cal or Encap lime per thousand square feet. September 1: Apply 3 pounds of Mag-I-Cal or Encap lime per thousand square feet. September 15: 3 pounds potassium sulfate in back only, unless using listed recommendation. Minor Elements: Unknown tests, so I'm not sure. Definitely don't add anything here.