What tape for a leaky condensation pipe joint?
karyn
8 years ago
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Fixing leaking PVC pipe joint
Comments (17)I went to make the repair and realized I have 1.5" pipe, not 2" (stupid). I was originally surprised at the amount of water accumulation, but I'm not well versed on how much condensate to expect. I have a cup underneath the drip right now, and collected maybe a few ounces in a 24 hour period. I can tell you this: After coming down from the roof, the line goes horizontal and from visual inspection appears to be pitched in the right direction. After maybe 8' of horizontal run there is a short 90 elbow, also horizontal. Then there is a short, say 1" section of pipe connected to this 90. This 1" section is mated up with a pvc coupling ring. This coupling is mated with about another 4" section of pipe until it meets a 90 oriented vertically. The drip is between the coupling and the 4" section of pipe. It appears they glued the wrong length pipe and then used a coupling to fix the problem. There must be a small gap between the coupling and the 4" section of pipe where the water finds a low spot. My plan was to cut the long 8' run of pipe just upstream of the horizontal 90, and also cut the 4" section of pipe after the leak. Then put new couplings on the existing pipe and connect a new horizontal 90 with new 1.5" pipe. I've done a number of pvc glue jobs and one thing that always bothered me: When I dry fit the pieces to check spacing, I can only twist the various parts together so much. When I apply glue the pieces then slide together tighter due to the lubrication, and then my spacing is off a little. I'm reluctant to push the pieces together less than the full amount when lubricated for fear of getting a leak. Do you oversize your piping sections a little to account for this, or just leave a little slack with plenty of glue? I haven't had any pvc leak on me yet, but always struggled with this. I thought maybe to glue everything together except the last coupling, and then dry fit that last connection and cut down the pipe as needed to make the final fit....See Moreleaky kitchen pipes at shut off valves
Comments (2)Those are standard compression-style shut-off's. Inside the body of the valve is a neoprene washer that is forced against a seat when you turn the oval handle. That washer is what stops the water from reaching your taps. Directly below the handle is a hexnut and the rotating stem runs through it. Inside the hexnut is a compressable seal. It's job is to keep water from getting past the stem and I suspect that it is not doing its job. The hex nut can be tightened to put more pressure on the seal and make it do its job. Don't go crazy with the tightening job. Just turn it a bit at a time until the leakage stops. If you overtighten it, you can damage it. If it has been damaged, then it needs to be replaced. Teflon tape or any other tape is pointless, IMO. It's either tighten the hex nut or replace the seal and tighten the hex nut or replace the entire valve. If you end up replacing the valve, buy the quarter-turn ball-type valves....See MoreLeaks - Pipe cannot pull out of the joint and can be pulled out
Comments (34)I realize that this is an old thread but I want to respond for anyone with a similar problem in the future. I am amazed that someone would tell you to hire a licensed plumber for such an incredibly easy job. Come on, folks! Have we become so helpless? When I read the question, I assumed it was about copper or galvanized pipe which would be very easy to fix too but then I saw it's PVC pipe. Nothing could be easier to fix and I have no idea why the person asking the question thinks he cannot remove the elbow. Of course you can remove it! You can simply cut it out with a hacksaw and put in a new elbow. You can extend the pipe that is cut off easily with just a union and a piece of PVC. Working with PVC is so incredibly easy that I am baffled about why the question was even asked. A proper repair would take about ten minutes and cost a couple dollars. I never cease to be amazed by how helpless people are becoming. This is pretty sad....See MoreCondensation on copper pipe - strange place
Comments (5)Something spilled on it could be the answer. I have seen oxidation near joints (flux) or near a slow leak and this is in the middle of the pipe randomly so that made me think pinhole leak. You can take fine sandpaper or steel wool to it and make it nice and shiny. And hey, if it does start leaking after removing the oxidation then question solved. Or you can just leave it alone, if it ever did start leaking it wont be catastrophic. That cold line is not a strange place for condensation btw. Usually the whole pipe would have some condensation not just one area. But water might only drop in a few areas. If its only wet on the pipe around the oxidation it could be a pinhole leak. Does the cold pipe ever feel wet anywhere else?...See MoreUser
8 years agorandy427
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7 years ago
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