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goldstar135

Peace Lily

goldstar135
8 years ago

Hi everyone!

This is my first post on this forum. After reading many topics on houseplant care, I've gotten many tips and helpful fixes to problems.


I've decided to stop stalking and join the forum! :p


Now for my question-I have a Peace Lily that was (is?) dying, probably due to overwatering. The poor plant lost almost all its leaves. I set the plant in a brighter location and corrected my watering.

I was so happy when this happened-


(Yes, the only thing remaining of the plant is that one leaf :( )


Right after opening though, the leave began browning. The soil felt a little dry, so I watered it thoroughly. The leaf continued browning. Another new stalk it seemed was trying to come out, but it "froze" in place.


Today, I took the plant out from the soil, washed all of it off, and examined its roots.

Almost all the roots were brown and "hollow". I cut them off. Fortunately, there are some white roots growing from the plant.

Right now, it's sitting in a glass of water. I plan to pot it with a seed starter mix in an hour or two.

My question is- Am I doing anything wrong up to this point? I really want to save the plant.

Comments (171)

  • GreenLarry
    7 years ago

    There's an unknown phenomenon again, perched water...

  • Photo Synthesis
    7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    "You assume that because Steve agreed with how I addressed many topics, but particularly the things I said about soil, that I agree with everything he said. I didn't/don't."

    You're the one making assumptions, not me. In fact, I assumed neither of those things. I couldn't care less whether or not you agreed with him. As for myself, I'm going to side with Steve, who has had more experience growing these rainforest plants than anybody else on this forum. Seeing as he successfully created a rainforest in a place where there was none, and maintained it for many, many years. :)

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    What might seem to you to sound like a riddle, would likely make more sense had the post above mine not been deleted. Too, that one doesn't know what it IS, doesn't mean one can't know what it ain't. The destroyer of weeds, thistles and thorns is a benefactor, whether he soweth grain or not. ~ Robert Ingersoll Chronic but not massive over-watering in PLs usually presents as necrotic leaf tips and margins. Under-watering to the degree it would cause so much damage would be accompanied by wilting, serious over-watering is often accompanied by wilting as well. If the plant hasn't wilted, it probably hasn't been seriously under-watered. A high level of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil solution also normally presents as necrosis at leaf tips and margins. Toxicity levels of chloramide/ chloramine aren't common, and toxic levels of fluoride, accumulative in plant tissues, can be expected to first show as necrotic leaf tips on older foliage. If we can rule out under/ over-watering in the extreme and any chance something phytotoxic made its way into the grow medium, it's likely Phytophthora sp., as the OP initially suspected. This, is a riddle >> Whenever you choose to speak my name, I am no more. What am I? Al
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    Hello all, To answer some of the questions: "How are you watering it and how do you determine when to water?" I water it when it starts to dry out. This seems to take a long time though. "not sure I understood you correctly..is the pot considered self draining?..no drain holes?..personally I don’t grow any plants in pots without drainage holes..I think good drainage in containers is important.." The pot does have drainage holes on the bottom. About 8 of them. It is not self draining, The pot also had something like this inside it "you didn't provide a time frame.. but one thing for sure.. its stressed from being repotted twice in a very short time frame... this is usually bordering on loving a plant to death... finish up the facts scenario.. and perhaps we can hone in on the answer .." The repots were several months apart. I repotted it originally mid-summer last year because it had outgrown its last pot and was extremely root bound and was starting to get stressed and wilt. When I repotted it that time, there was not even soil left in the pot when I finally took it out, just roots. Because of this, I upsized it significantly into a larger pot. After I did this, the browning and dieback started. By the end of December, I repotted it again and downsized it to the current pot. "if it a home made media mix.. if so.. what % of what???" It is a store bought mix called promix. It is moss and perlite I believe. It should be this stuff https://www.promixgardening.com/en-us/product/detail/promix-premium-all-purpose-mix "did you dampen the media before putting the plant in it???" Yes, "are those fresh new growth coming from the center.. hidden behind the ugly leaves ??" This is correct. The plant seems to be receeding and the new growth is happening in the center and the dieback is along the edges. It seems to be speeding up and even the new leaves are starting tp blemish a bit.
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  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    7 years ago

    "Just
    a word of thanks for the information [Al]. I have agreed fully with
    Al's information for many years .....


    Thanks
    again!"

    Steve
    Lucas
    www.ExoticRainforest.com

    Larry - This is a discussion about PWTs, (click link) initiated by Linda Chalker Scott, PhD, who is famous for debunking horticultural myths and who recognizes the existence of PWTs in containers but reveals she doesn't fully understand what causes them or the mechanics by which they exist. If you scroll to the end of the thread you'll see where I explained to her some of the errors she made in her thinking. This discussion about PWTs was also written by a man with a PhD. He understands the physical properties of container media better than Dr Scott, but did neglect to mention that PWTs also occur in soils fine enough to support perched water when these soils are layered above a "drainage layer" of material (like gravel) at least 2.1X the size of the particles. I realize that you don't believe in PWTs, but beliefs don't alter the reality of their existence or their impact on plants.

    Al




  • Photo Synthesis
    7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    Ooh... I'm very impressed. Steve agreed with you on something. That almost never happens. So what? I agree with you on many aspects as well. As do many other people. Out of the two of you, who developed, maintained, and lived within their very own rainforest that was known the world over? Hmm... :/

    For the record, I was never claiming that I was right, or that anybody else was wrong. Sorry I don't have any crayons to color a purty picture to get that point across, because some people just can't seem to grasp that simple concept. I'm not the one getting bent out of shape for simply telling goldstar135 to place their plant on top of a folded up paper towel to soak up any excess moisture.

    As for myself, I'll seek my information from a guy whose knowledge of these plants was unrivaled by anyone on this forum, Steve Lucas. :)

    "A great rule to follow is 'Listen to Mother Nature since her advice is best.'"

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    7 years ago

    I'm not sure why you took exception to what I said. It wasn't mean-spirited and it was with the best interest of the OP that I posted. It wasn't me that got bent out of shape, it was you. I've suggested dozens of times, if not hundreds, that people depot their plant and place it on newspaper to pull excess water from the media, but there is a BIG difference between setting a pot on newspaper or a paper towel than setting a root ball on same. I only pointed out that with a concave bottom it wouldn't work unless continuity from soil to blotter was maintained. How that is too much for you to tolerate is beyond me. Once again, I ask if you can find anything wrong in what I said or point to what you thought was mean-spirited. You can't, and I'm not the one hurling insults or resorting to the sour cream of wit (sarcasm), because I can't hold my own in an on topic discussion.

    You left important information out of your post and said things that if taken literally would be detrimental to Goldstar's growing experience. I added qualifications to your statements that would prevent him from thinking over-watering was no big deal - "You can't be afraid to give it more than enough water". That might be true if using a medium that supports little or no perched water, but definitely NOT true with the soil he's using. In fact, in a container that shallow, it's a serious concern. You laid a couple of eggs. Deal with it and get over it. We all make mistakes or forget important qualifications when giving advice. I suggested that someone move a jade outdoors into full sun w/o saying anything about acclimating it. Tiffany came right behind me and added what I neglected to include. Guess what? I didn't get all out of joint - I was glad for the added info I neglected to supply and 'liked' her post. We're different in that regard I guess, you and I. If you had corrected me in the manner I corrected you because I messed up, I'd have said thanks and apologized for what I missed, as is my habit when I mess up.

    You can have the last word on this topic. How you use it will say a lot about you.

    Al


  • Vance Evans
    7 years ago

    Guys lets stop arguing whose right or wrong, or whatever it is you are doing. Both of you have truths, knowledge and success. Gold star is the one who needs help and we need to put our differences aside and help devise a plan.


    Gold star I think your little one is doing well, keep it up.

    goldstar135 thanked Vance Evans
  • GreenLarry
    7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    PWT must be a new discovery because I have never come across it in any book on plants I've read, and I've read a lot! I've been growing plants since I came out of nappies (diapers) and I still use a layer of gravel for drainage. Horses for courses.

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    7 years ago

    No, Larry, it's almost as old as the earth; and its effects in container culture very often impose serious limitations which can be compounded by the use of "drainage layers". That someone refuses to recognize its existence, doesn't mean it's not real. A quick net search on your part would prove illuminating.


    Al


  • Vance Evans
    7 years ago

    So a little off topic, hope you don't mind goldstar but I found these at lowes today and got them for half off. They forgot to water them... Anyways I'm going to repot them today in 5-1-1.


    Any updates on your little guy?

    goldstar135 thanked Vance Evans
  • goldstar135
    Original Author
    7 years ago

    Nice plants...I know they'll begin thriving in your care! :)

    The first leaf has fully opened-it's beautiful :)

    I can't wait for those emerging new leaves to unfurl. As of now, the furled leaves look even bigger than the opened one! So excited :D

  • jamilalshaw26
    7 years ago

    Very beautiful leaf

    goldstar135 thanked jamilalshaw26
  • Vance Evans
    7 years ago

    Looks like what you are doing is working. These are definitely my favorite plants. I've had so-so luck with maintaining them. I've got two plants that my wife gave me about three years ago. They have thrived. I've also killed a few, but then again I wonder if I would've kept at it like you are if they would've survived.

    goldstar135 thanked Vance Evans
  • goldstar135
    Original Author
    7 years ago

    Ok, so we've got an unusual growth on my plant:

    It's as if the two new leaves opening up are conjoined in the center?

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    That's normal. The leaves on your plant are much like the leaves of other plants, the difference being in the very short internodes (the section of stem between leaves) your plant is programmed to produce The leaves are so close together it might appear they're conjoined, but they're not. You can rest easy - you're not living with a mutant. ;-)

    Al

    goldstar135 thanked tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
  • Vance Evans
    7 years ago

    I agree with Al and you will probably have more new growth in between those to leaves. Awesome!

    goldstar135 thanked Vance Evans
  • Vance Evans
    7 years ago

    Any new updates?

  • goldstar135
    Original Author
    7 years ago

    The new leaves have opened!! :D

    Al, I know you said it's normal for leaves to look conjoined, but are sure sure that this is normal? It starts as a single petiole. It then splits into two separate veins, each vein to a different leaf. The two halves are joined together on the bottom-

    That little rip in the center is where the leaves split-below that is one base.

    I'm under the impression that spaths have one leaf per petiole?

    This could be one of those funny little growths that plants put out from time to time, like a leaf shaped differently :p

    --

    Another new growth seen:

    I keep the plant on a windowsill facing west-it gets direct sun through the window from about 2 PM to dusk. It seems to like the light :)

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    7 years ago

    There's a stem in there somewhere, and the leaves are growing from nodes on that stem. The nodes are so close together that it LOOKS like one leaf is the offspring of or is conjoined with another or other leaves, but it's how many plants grow.

    Al

    goldstar135 thanked tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
  • User
    7 years ago

    goldstar....you got that plant in a strong recovery. Relax and enjoy.

    goldstar135 thanked User
  • Vance Evans
    7 years ago

    I agree with both Anthony and Al on this one. It could be just a mutated leaf, but either way your are doing a great job. Your patience is paying off :).

    goldstar135 thanked Vance Evans
  • User
    7 years ago

    Goldstar: You must get your lighting skills up for long term success. A PL does not like direct sunlight. BRIGHT INDIRECT ONLY.

  • goldstar135
    Original Author
    7 years ago

    Update on the plant:

    Big root on the side



    More roots


    Strange little growth :p


    I'm planning to give it some fertilizer the next time I water, which will likely be very soon judging by the weight of the cup and the soil color.

    How much fertilizer should I mix in with the amount of water I'm using?


    The bottle says to put about 1/16 cup per gallon, and about 1/8 cup per 2 gallons.

  • GreenLarry
    7 years ago

    I'm not keen on the idea of keeping plants in clear pots. Light gets in and turns the roots photosynthetic, and there is evidence that they become compromised.

  • lmontestella
    7 years ago

    GreenLarry

    Can you pls. explain what this means "turns the roots photosynthetic"?

    Thx,

    Lena

  • Photo Synthesis
    7 years ago

    Photosynthetic roots are much like those of many epiphytic orchids; which typically grow on the trunks of trees, not in the ground. Since they're not covered by soil, they're exposed to sunlight and perform photosynthesis in much the same way that their leaves do.

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    7 years ago

    Use 3 tsp per gallon. Since we don't know how much water the container holds, we can't figure how much fertilizer to add. There is 128 oz in a gallon, so divide 128 by the number of oz in your bottle. Let's say it's 24 oz. 128 divided by 24 is 5.3, so you use about 1/5 of 3 tsp or between 1/2-3/4 tsp. Let us know the volume of the bottle & I (or someone else) will figure it out for you (unless it IS 24 oz).

    Al

    goldstar135 thanked tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
  • goldstar135
    Original Author
    7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    "Let us know the volume of the bottle & I (or someone else) will figure it out for you (unless it IS 24 oz)."

    The volume of the bottle used for watering, correct?

    In that case:

    16.9 FL OZ

    1 PT, 0.9 FL OZ

    500 ML

    Is FL OZ the same as OZ?

    I use a new bottle of water every time-I take a bottle, water the plant, then dump the empty bottle in the recycling (I don't refill the same bottle)

    For when I fertilize the plant, I plan on pouring one bottle into the plant, letting it drain, then pouring another, this time with fertilizer.

  • Vance Evans
    7 years ago

    There are 8 pints in a gallon. So use about 1/4 to 1/2 tsp in the bottle since 3tsp divided by eight is 3/8. That's between 1/4 and 1/2.

    goldstar135 thanked Vance Evans
  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    7 years ago

    I come up with .4 tsp, so 1`/4-1/2 teaspoon is good.

    Al

    goldstar135 thanked tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    To Admin - you might note that Anthony's preferred method of trolling is to offer short sentences, over and over and over again that contain the same "hot button issues", suggesting that light and watering skills are the answer to everything, and nothing in the way of any real substance. At a glance, they look innocuous, but taken as a whole they illustrate a pattern (s)he consistently uses in thread after thread. I think it's shameful for someone to ignore the the best interest of innocent members in order to see how much heat can be purposefully created. BTW - the 'hot button' issues are exactly the same issues used by another relentless troll that surfaces from time to time, which I find curious. It may be a coincidence, but do you have a way checking to see if his/her posts are coming from an IP in FL?

    (S)he has also adopted the habit of making these intentionally repetitive posts containing information with the potential to diminish the growing experience of others and then deleting them a short time later.

    Goldstar - Anthony is intentionally misleading you in order to create friction. Anyone with a rudimentary understanding of Liebig's Law of the Minimum knows that even perfect light levels and soil conditions can't "make up" for limitations imposed by other cultural conditions. In this case, the question becomes, 'can good light and soil conditions "make up for" or "offset" the limitations imposed by low or poorly managed nutritional supplementation, and the answer is a resounding 'no'. If you're growing in a container, you need to fertilize.

    Also, that PLs are bog plants has nothing to do with what they prefer in a container. They do not like water-retentive or 'boggy' soils. They prefer the same well-aerated and fast draining soils you can keep damp instead of saturated as most other plants prefer. (S)he does you a great disservice by using you to sow his seeds of discord.

    Al

    goldstar135 thanked tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
  • goldstar135
    Original Author
    7 years ago

    Update:

    Two new leaves!

    Visible root system


    Some white fungus started growing on the soil surface:

    I'm pretty sure it's not mineral buildup. I think it might be coming from the dead stem in the soil. I'm assuming the plant won't mind?

  • Vance Evans
    7 years ago

    How's the little fellow doing?


    goldstar135 thanked Vance Evans
  • goldstar135
    Original Author
    7 years ago

    It's doing awesomely! It grows at least one new leaf every two weeks, each new one bigger than the last. It looks so healthy :)

    I'll post some pictures as soon as I can.

    Thanks for asking!

  • Lauren (Zone 9a)
    7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    Litterbuggy, lol!!!! It really was a most gripping narrative! Never have so many come together for so few leaves to survive.....rofl

    goldstar135 thanked Lauren (Zone 9a)
  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    "As much as I've let them down, my doughty green friends have never failed me when I showed them I cared!" If ever that strategy seems to be failing, go the tough love pathway and provide for them, with a 'this is for your own good' look on your countenance, no more than a glimpse of the compost pile. See then how cooperative they'll be.

    Al

    goldstar135 thanked tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
  • litterbuggy (z7b, Utah)
    7 years ago

    Oh, they'll cooperate! I've learned all I need to know about that from my 23 year old cat. She may strongly disagree that subcutaneous fluids and blood pressure and thyroid meds are what keep her happy to stick around, but I'm won't let that stop me from giving them to her as long as they keep doing their job.

    goldstar135 thanked litterbuggy (z7b, Utah)
  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    7 years ago

    Know the difference between a dog and a cat?

    Dogs have 'family'. Cats have 'staff'.

    Enjoy the weekend if it is indeed the weekend for you.

    Al

    goldstar135 thanked tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
  • goldstar135
    Original Author
    7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    Sorry about the delay, but...

    Here are the pictures! (Taken October 15)

    I've been delighted to find these large plump fuzzy roots growing all over-

    I'm planning to repot next summer. I can't wait to see how much bigger it gets until then! :)

  • litterbuggy (z7b, Utah)
    7 years ago

    Yowzah!

    goldstar135 thanked litterbuggy (z7b, Utah)
  • Lauren (Zone 9a)
    7 years ago

    My goodness, what growth in such a short period of time! Kudos to you !!

    goldstar135 thanked Lauren (Zone 9a)
  • hellkitchenguy Manuel
    7 years ago

    Beautiful. How much light does it get?

    goldstar135 thanked hellkitchenguy Manuel
  • goldstar135
    Original Author
    7 years ago

    Aww, thanks everyone! :)

    Manuel-It sits in a room with windows facing southwest, south, northwest-most of the light it gets comes in from the west facing window. It gets direct sun (with intermittent periods of shade) from around 1 to 5 PM.


  • hellkitchenguy Manuel
    7 years ago

    It's beautiful. You should call it Lazarus, or Phoenix, since it came back from the dead

    goldstar135 thanked hellkitchenguy Manuel
  • Vance Evans
    7 years ago

    Wow it's been a long time. How's the little PL?

    goldstar135 thanked Vance Evans
  • goldstar135
    Original Author
    7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    Wow...can't believe the last update I posted was way back in October. Time flies :p

    It's doing great, thanks for asking! It lost a couple of older leaves (including the first one it grew after the repot) a few weeks ago-I'm thinking it was a result of shorter days and little fertilizing. Other than that it's doing amazing!

    The first leaf it grew when it was repotted was about 1/3 the size of my hand.

    The biggest leaf is now as tall as (or a tiny bit bigger than) my hand! :) (it's the upper-right leaf in the second pic)

    Growth has slowed a tiny bit, but I'm hoping as Spring inches closer and as the daylight grows longer it'll begin speeding up again.

  • goldstar135
    Original Author
    6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    June update--

    The peace lily has moved outdoors to enjoy its summer vacation :)

    Regarding the water residue on the leaves-I sprayed them down with the hose to remove some dust and ended up with the residue. There are supposed to be some thunderstorms soon, so I might put it in the rain so it can get its leaves cleaned off :p

    With my other plants~~

    This summer I plan to repot it into a larger clay pot. I was going to pot up, but with a substantial amount of dead plant matter in the soil (e.g. the dead stem) I decided to start fresh. There are already a LOT of roots visible in the pot :D

  • Randi Holbrook
    6 years ago

    Goldstar, I have to say that I'm IMPRESSED with how you stuck with saving that little "nothing" of a plant! I wish all of us growers were as dedicated as you are! I would have given up long ago. You are being rewarded for your patience and care with a beautiful plant! Kudos to you!

    goldstar135 thanked Randi Holbrook
  • Maria Koch
    last year

    Good job with the plant propagation, Goldstar. Have you figure out the proper amount of watering yet? Ive been watering my peace lilies after the top inch of soil dries out and it works for me fine. It is also described in a guide: peace lily care and there other usefull tips for peace lily growing. btw. I would not recommend propagating/growing plants in translucent pots, because roots dont like sunlight but your peace lily didnt mind anyway. Have fun with your plants:)

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    last year

    If the pot is very shallow, using the guide to "water when the top inch (or two) of the soil feels dry" is usually ok. The same advice applied to plants in deeper pots, say 10" deep, is pretty much a recipe for over-watering. Here's why: For a very large % of plants, including PLs, it's best to water when there is just enough moisture in the medium to prevent drought stress. This means the soil column will be on the dry side except at the bottom. A pot filled with a 10" (deep) soil column very often supports a perched water table as tall as 6". This meant the top 2" of that soil column can feel dry, while the bottom 6" is 100% saturated. This has the potential to severely limit roots' ability to function, and, can set the stage for fungal root infections that wreck root health and often lead to the plant's loss of viability.

    Watering is a science and it holds significant sway over what kind of opportunity the grower might be able to provide the plant to realize as much of its genetic potential as possible. Poor soil and/or poor watering practices can rob a plant of virtually all of it's potential for growth and vitality, and much of its eye appeal.

    Using a 'tell' can take all the guesswork out of determining what moisture levels are deep in the pot where it counts most, and determining what intervals (between waterings) are appropriate.

    Using a 'tell'

    Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant.

    Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor.

    In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water.

    Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'.

    One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue.

    Al