Peace lily. Phytopthora?
lauraeli_
9 years ago
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tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
9 years agolauraeli_
9 years agoRelated Discussions
Peace Lily
Comments (171)If the pot is very shallow, using the guide to "water when the top inch (or two) of the soil feels dry" is usually ok. The same advice applied to plants in deeper pots, say 10" deep, is pretty much a recipe for over-watering. Here's why: For a very large % of plants, including PLs, it's best to water when there is just enough moisture in the medium to prevent drought stress. This means the soil column will be on the dry side except at the bottom. A pot filled with a 10" (deep) soil column very often supports a perched water table as tall as 6". This meant the top 2" of that soil column can feel dry, while the bottom 6" is 100% saturated. This has the potential to severely limit roots' ability to function, and, can set the stage for fungal root infections that wreck root health and often lead to the plant's loss of viability. Watering is a science and it holds significant sway over what kind of opportunity the grower might be able to provide the plant to realize as much of its genetic potential as possible. Poor soil and/or poor watering practices can rob a plant of virtually all of it's potential for growth and vitality, and much of its eye appeal. Using a 'tell' can take all the guesswork out of determining what moisture levels are deep in the pot where it counts most, and determining what intervals (between waterings) are appropriate. Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Al...See MorePeace lilies - turning brown in center of flower?
Comments (3)Do i cut the leave off of the bottom of the plant when they first start turning brown or let the glower turn all brown doesn WWhWhiWhitWhiteWhite on theWhite on the green leavWhite on the green leaveWhite on the green leavesWhite on the green leaves comeWhite on the green leaves come fromWhite on the green leaves come from thatWhite on the green leaves come from that whiteWhite on the green leaves come from that white thing in thWhite on the green leaves come from that white thing in theWhite on the green leaves come from that white thing in the center of flower??...See MoreGiant Peace Lily
Comments (11)That is a beauty, seems like a great price too! Great find. I'm not familiar w/ Sensation Peace Lily, will have to look it up. I once worked in an office w/ one that was an oversize variety like that, even bigger I think. Have read it's called Mauna Loana; seemed pretty carefree. Currently, I have a regular size Spath & one of the miniatures, which happens to be in bloom, here. I've left it in its original EA mix, it's very thirsty, takes watering every 3 or 4 days....See MoreDrooping peace lily
Comments (5)i recognize this pic.. and wonder where your old post is??? .. scroll down the page and see if you can find it ... or even go to the second page if you cant find it ... if you posted in other forums.. link us to the other post ... ken...See Morelauraeli_
9 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
9 years agolauraeli_
9 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
9 years agolauraeli_
9 years agolauraeli_
9 years agoCelina Cisek
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoSantiago Arribas
7 years agoKalyn Wish
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
3 years agoNgwatilo Mawiyoo
3 years agoNicky Turner
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
3 years agoHarold Layser Jr.
last yearlast modified: last yeartapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
last yearlast modified: last year
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