Well of course your oil furnace must be properly decommissioned and removed, tank drained and removed. You need a heat/cool load calculation. I suspect a 2 ton is undersized but you won't know without a professionally performed load calc. This is something you could do yourself if so inclined and have the time. I like to compare yours with a dealer's report. Insulation properties of home need to be looked at including attic. Where is your ductwork located? It should be inspected. If AC condenser is undersized as I suspect, it is likely your ductwork is undersized as well. Going all electric will call for backup heat strips. Probably a 10 KW size. This could mean electric service might need to be upgraded. A good dealer who sells heat pump systems can survey and advise. My top choice on conventional heat pumps still remains Trane/AmStd. Correct sizing though is most important. You have some preliminary work before a new system is installed.

IMO

Another option is to keep the oil furnace and use it as the back up to the heat pump. This would eliminate the cost of removing the oil furnace and tank, and adding heat strips. The heat strips require additional electrical work which could be costly if the electrical panel needs to be upgraded. I would only do this if the oil furnace is in good condition.

You should move quickly before the weather gets hot and HVAC contractors become busy.

Thanks. The furnace and oil tank are located in the basement with the ac outside. There's some ductwork in the basement ceiling. I believe the ductwork for the upper level is in the attic as the registers are on the ceiling. The registers for the main level are on the floor. Mike_home, do you think it's efficient to keep an oil furnace that's original to the house? We may be able to get somebody that will cut up the tank and take it away for scrap. It's practically empty. We'll likely need a heavy up as we're almost maxed up with the addition. We were eventually able to get a Ruud dealer go a load calculation which I'll attach as soon as I figure out how to. But per Tigerdunes advice, we are leaning towards Trane/AS. What matching equipment/models do you advise? We are budget conscious but at the same time, don't want the bottom of the barrel. Thanks.

Must be an old load calc that shows 1200 sq ft not 1700 sq ft.

????

"do you think it's efficient to keep an oil furnace that's original to the house? We may be able to get somebody that will cut up the tank and take it away for scrap. It's practically empty."

When you say efficient, I assume you mean will using the oil furnace be as economical the heat strips. I am confident heating with the oil furnace will cost less than heating with the electric heat strips. That can be verified by comparing the fuel and electricity costs.

It just occurred to me you will still need heat strips to condition the air during defrost cycles. If that is true (dual fuel heat pump experts should verify then there may not be any costs savings on electrical panel work.

The oil tank has to be removed by a contractor who is licensed to do this work. Practically empty means there is some oil which must be properly disposed. The cost savings may be small and not worth having to deal with an oil burner on a long term basis. The oil tank removal will free up space in the basement. Another thing to consider.

Are you sure there are no gas lines in the street? You would think Washington DC would have gas lines going to older sections of the city.

Tigerdunes, the calculation was before the addition. I also think the sq ft in the calculation was taken off of DC tax assessor's website and does not include the finished basement. Mike_home, I am also not comfortable with a gas furnace in the house (maybe unreasonable but not really willing to go that route). Hence the decision is to convert to all electric.

Are you saying nat gas service to your home is available?

pls advise...

The preliminary ask was that it was not easily available. We did not explore further as we don't really want gas in the house.

Why do you think that the tank needs to be cut up to take it out of the basement? These things are made to fit through standard doors. I'd worry more about the stability of the oil fuel if it is not used very much.

Mike_home, why can't the oil-fired furnace be used in place of heat strips? That asked, the oil furnace requires a lot more maintenance and good service tradespeople are getting hard to find in areas where gas is available.

That's how our neighbors got theirs out, Ionized_gw. I think the problem is getting it up the stairs and out of the house without damaging the walls. The oil furnace is still in use. However, the tank is almost empty and we didn't bother refilling it since the heating season is over. Thanks.

I would like to avoid the circus I had last time with multiple quotes of varying systems, some not worth reporting. Are there any systems you can advice me to ask the dealer for a quote on?

No suggestions?

Trane/AmStd if conventional heat pump systems. XR17 2 stage, XR15, XR16 single stage systems, same available from sister company AmStd...still think you should research your options/cost on bringing nat gas service to your home. Load calc and inspection of ductwork system a must!

IMO

Ductwork system was inspected and there are leaks that will be addressed by the dealer we choose. We really don't want natural gas in our home inspite of all its advantages. We have someone coming over the weekend. Hopefully, he will perform a load calculation. Load calculation is quite popular on this board but it is amazing that there are many dealers that would rather quote from experience than get one done.

those dealers are lazy, possibly ignorant, and have little regard for their customer's best interests...sorry, but you are mistaken about nat gas....I would though get off oil all the way...

IMO

We got a quote from a dealer who is a friend of a friend. He gave us a quote for AS 4A6H5030G1 HP, *AM7A0C36H31 AH and a 10KW heatstrip. We already have a honeywell RTH8580WF so we won't be getting a new thermostat. We also have an Aprilaire 500 humidifier that we'll be using. His quote including inspecting the ductwork system, a new return in the basement which does not have one at the moment, a new line set, etc is 6000. Is this a good system and is the quote reasonable? He is old school and did not perform a load calculation but he believes the right size is 2.5 tons.

The Aprilaire 500 is a humidifier. I believe that the earth is flat and that 2.5 tons is right for you.

I mistyped. Corrected. Aside from your sizing concern, any input as to system/models quoted? Thanks.

After going through hell and high waters to get a proper load calculation done, a kind and generous contributor on another board offered to perform one and my I now understand why some dealers run away from it. It was about 50 pages long and determined that my heating load is 32439 and cooling load 19882.

Contractor 1 loves Carrier and gave four options:

Option A

Outdoor Unit Model Number: 25VNA836A003

Indoor Unit Model Number: FE4ANF002L00

Price: 11,200

Option B

Outdoor Unit Model Number: 25HCB636A003

Indoor Unit Model Number: FV4CNF002L00

Price: 94800

Option C

Outdoor Unit Model Number: 25HCC530A003

Indoor Unit Model Number: FV4CNF002L00

Price: 8500

Option D

Outdoor Unit Model Number: 25HBC530A003

Indoor Unit Model Number: FB4CNP030L00

Price: 7200

All options except option D include factory rebate up to $1500. Also includes a 10kw heat strip, install new disconnect box, install new digital thermostat (no model number given but we already own the honeywell 8580), ductwork modification to fit new system, one year labor and 10 years on carrier parts and 10 years on compressor. I maybe wrong but the efficiency numbers are not that impressive even for the very expensive Option A.

"It just occurred to me you will still need heat strips to condition the
air during defrost cycles. If that is true (dual fuel heat pump experts
should verify then there may not be any costs savings on electrical
panel work."

Just passing thru. The oil furnace provides the heat during defrost cycles on my hybrid system. It would have cost me a small fortune to upgrade my electrical service to go the strip heater route when you guys helped me four years ago.

I have not used enough oil during defrost cycles for the past two winters to see a measurable change on my tank gauge. In fact, It's been two years since my last oil delivery and I've for over half a tank left. (I live not too far from the OP - I'm in Suburban Montgomery County.) Lots of quality Oil Service Companies in this area.

Salti, Do you still have the expense of servicing your oil burner annually?

No input from the house gurus? Tigerdunes, Mike_home, et al. Another dealer told me that Trane XR15 is phased out and is replaced with XR16. Also that he doesn't like TAM7 because it is made of plastic. Is this correct?

If the cooling load is 19,882, then you should be getting quotes for 2 ton heat pumps. The heat pump needs to be sized for cooling. If it is not, then you run the risk of short cycling and higher humidity in the summer.

I have never hear of a air handler made out plastic.

"Salti, Do you still have the expense of servicing your oil burner annually?"

I pay $65 for Annual Filter Change and Check-up. I use my Oil Supplier that also is a Carrier Dealer. (I have Carrier gear.)

For the first time in my 26 years in this house, I inadvertently failed to schedule it last summer - not worried, the comment I get is the furnace filter looks like the furnace is never used. I have my HP serviced every other year. I will not intentionally miss the annual furnace check again - I'm one of those people that changes his automobile oil/filter changed like clockwork.

Kind of a nice feature is were I to lose electric power during a winter storm, I can heat with oil using power from my portable generator which I converted to run off 20# Propane Bottles.

You guys collectively did me a huge service when you validated my decisions on replacing my equipment.

A highly regarded Trane dealer came around. No load calculation done but said I require a 2 ton.

Option A XR14

4TWR4024E1000C

TEM6A0B30H21SA

Price: 7400

Option B XR16

4TWR6024H1000A

TEM6A0B30H21SA

Price: 8600

Option C XR17

4TWR7024A1000C

TEM6A0B30H21SA

Price: 9400

Prices are final and include Aprilaire 700M humidifier, honeywell Pro 6000 thermostat and aprilaire media. Also included 2 year labor and 1 year service contract and manufacturer's 10 year warranty.I asked about the TAM7 and he said to add $500 to each price but he doesn't like them as they are made of plastic. I asked for the AHRI numbers and am still waiting for them from him. His trane prices are better than his AS prices. What do you think?

Any comments/suggestions? Thanks. we need to make a decision before another family emergency surfaces. :)

Seems like I've been abandoned by all the pros. Somebody please?

Dont focus on the equipment brand. Go with the dealer that you consider the most competent. That would appear to be your old Ruud dealer.

Thanks. I am a bit hesitant as the pros here have not been as enthusiastic about ruud/rheem as they used to be. Some of the dealers that came to our house complained about a lot of recalls/failures with them.

As long as it is installed properly there is nothing wrong with the rheem brand. Concerning furnace/AC brands they all do the same job it is similar to comparing them to cars, some people have their preference but they all get you from A to B. Normally if there is a problem it is an installation issue, or not proper ductwork. The house I bought has a Goodman, and a lot of people swear up and down its garbage but it works fine, my house is kept warm in winter and cool in summer. The major difference in furnaces is the blower motor. As long as you get a furnace with the better ECM variable speed motor the brands are all pretty comparable.

All furnaces have parts that can fail. I believe rheem has the industry comparable 10 year warranty on parts and lifetime on heat exchanger (no labor, non transferrable).

Thanks. Any preference as to quotes received above?

An electronic filter cabinet is the best option for filters and it appears the aprilaire 5000 electronic filter cabinet is the best of the best.

http://docs.electronicaircleaners.com/aprilaire_5000_comparision.pdf

Here is the trane brochure. Main difference is SEER rating. You are looking at (up to) 16 SEER, 17 SEER, and 18 SEER. The more you pay, the higher the SEER. Just how it goes.

https://www.trane.com/content/dam/Trane/residential/downloads/brochure/airconditioners/72-1208-25_HR.pdf

The air handler/furnace of all those quotes has a variable speed ECM motor. This makes sense considering anything over 14 SEER needs a VS ECM blower to actually achieve the higher efficiency.

http://gemaire.com/american-standard-tem6a0b30h21sa-silver-series-30-000-btu-variable-speed-multi-position-air-handler-208-230-1-60-tem6a0b30h21sa

I just ran into some info new to me on a different thread. Apparently the electronic filters emit a small amount of ozone which is not recommended. So the best filter, found on this report, says the Lennox Healthy Climate is the best, found on page 4. (ty Austin Air Companie)

Lots of useful information. Thank you.