oops, better link Here is a link that might be useful: Marble Vanity Link

I'd use a circular saw, not a recip saw, because the latter is harder to control. Just set the blade right at the depth of the wood planks and slice a clean line the length of the joint, at the width away from the seam as the transition piece. The circular saw won't be able to get all the way to the wall edge, so you'll need a Dremel or equivalent to slice through the last little bit. Then just take the transition piece, slice off the tongue, cut it to length, drop it in the hole you cut, and face nail it down. Pretty straightforward if you have the right tools, a steady hand, and a precise approach to measuring (need to get the width of the cutout exactly the width of the transition piece.

Our plugmold was installed without the end fitting. I can see how that extra space could have made it easier. It was a PITA to get it back up when we had to pull the plugmold down to install our backsplash, then put it back up a little bit further out. Extra hard because one of my runs of plugmold is 3 sections for a total of 13 feet long. Either there already is a punchout in the side of the plugmold for the wires to be pulled through, or our electrician cut a hole for them. The punchout is in both pieces - the base and the cover. Our plugmold faces down towards the counter, and the wires come in from the side. The wires come out of the wall just under the bottom of the cabinet, similar to yours. So basically, if you imagine the cover of the plugmold is shaped like a U, with the open top of the U wrapped around the base part of the plugmold and the bottom of the U is where the receptacles are, the wires come in from a punchout in the side of the U that is next to the wall. Our plugmold is mounted to the bottom of the cabinet, not to the wall. However, I have frameless cabinets, so the bottom of my cabinets are flat, they do not have the short piece of cabinet that comes down under the cabinet. Does that make any sense ? As far as the tamper resistance goes ... do you have the option to NOT have TR ? I find the TR outlets through the rest of my house *extremely* hard to plug into. I can't imagine trying to force a plug into an outlet when the receptacle is mounted facing down (or even angled) up under the bottom of the cabinet.

@tc9876 we have 8' ceilings and planning the Ikea upper cabinets would be MUCH easier if we had a few extra inches. We prefer the full 40" uppers, but we also want crown moulding and a light rail. Additonally, we also want the space above the counter to be slightly higher than the standard 18" (certainly no smaller than that standard). We're probably going to have to settle for 30" uppers that won't go all the way tot he ceiling if we want all of these things.