Brand new worm Bin, worms running for the hills
nappymop
8 years ago
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harry757
8 years agogumby_ct
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoRelated Discussions
Off to a Real Good Start with My New Worm Bin!
Comments (20)"Are BSF timid creatures, or am I most likely going to have them crawling on me or flying around when I'm checking out my bin?" Some people really love their BSFL, as much as we love our worms. They too worry about them when they have to leave them for a few days. My understanding is that when BSFL are about 3/4 inch long and smaller they are white. Then as they mature they turn black and hard like little armadillos. Then they hide. The flys that emerge are like large houseflies but they do not land on poop and then on food. They avoid people, poop and food and want to find a bit of rot to lay their eggs on. They fly erratically. Slow when they are just warming up. Then faster. They are black with some of their leg area white. I think you would like the fly and the mature larvae and not be afraid of them. The thing that is cool about the white larvae is if one puts lets say the remains of a fish that the fillets have been harvest from into the bin, the the BSFL boil over the remains so actively that the remains float over the top of the activity and wonder around the container while getting smaller and smaller until they are all gone. Maybe let your helper know that these types of things in the bin are normal so they will not be startled. There is the cutest youtube that shows a little girl with a handful of BSFL feeding then to her chickens. If they knew that even little girls are not afraid of them then they might be more ok with them. Me I do not even touch my worms except with a 10 inch stick. Not even with gloves on. Maybe the scarriest thing to ever happen was I had noticed a few things out of place around the bin lately. Things were a bit mess with the vermicomost. I thought I was just sloppy. One day I put food in the top of the bin and out of the bottom a mouse jumped and darted off of my leg. I screamed like a little girl. Then I laughed a lot because I screamed. Many people love furry mice as pets. Maybe not me. I wonder if he was eating my worms. I move the material around in my bin to learn what is going on. As I am more confident I know what is happening in there and as vermicomposting is not my newest hobby, and I am not possessed with knowing what is going on with the little guys, I am more likely to leave them alone. Then my activity with the bin would more resemble how sbryce advises. Like him I would flip the bottom material over for the same reasons. Or gain interest in flow through bins like I have. I would think the cloth worm inns would work nice for you. Just put the stuff food by the tons and bedding in at the top. Zip it in. Water frequently. Harvest at the bottom. Supposedly no need to separate worms. They do dry out fast but the activity of adding water is pleasant for some. Others may have fish tank change water they want to use. I would think that maybe the condition of the material might be gauged a tiny bit by just squeezing the bag. I do not have one. Some people sew their own. Having a strong enough stand to hold mega weight is important. I guess like not buying the first year of a car I am waiting for them to come out with the new and improved version. I think mine would dry out. That would be ... ... .,. very bad for the worms. A homemade plastic bin is more resilient in that way....See MoreNew worm bin
Comments (3)do worms have teeth? how wide can they open their mouths? how much did you cut the food scrap up? worms eat things that have started to decompose and are teeming with the decomposer bacteris, molds and fungus - they will go looking for food - they prefer wetter to drier - they like an even cool [not cold] temp, I'd say you gave them an environment they don't much like and a real lack of food - make sure the bedding isn't really sopping wet at the bottom, and not quite dry at the top - try chopping food waste small [even run it in a blender] and mix it into the top couple inches in a small area I'd also recommend avoiding peat moss completely - holds too much water when wet, gets very dry at exposed surfaces, supplies little of interest to worms until it gets saturated w/ decomposing materials you might also leave the lid off for a while and keep a light on - they do tend to hightail it when conditions aren't good, but they'll avoid light so stay in the bin - except for the ones that try to get out the bottom, maybe because it's too wet there - put some fly screen on the bottom to cover the holes Bill...See MoreOutside Worm Bins and Native Worms
Comments (20)wfike, are you adding wood shavings to improve the texture of the casts or to help aerate the bedding? I've read, and surmise, that wood shavings take a long time to break down, so I'm assuming you aren't adding them as feedstock, am I figuring this correctly? I've also read, from several older vermi books (and the Vermiculture_FarmersManual), that horse manure by itself is not the best feed, but that cattle manure is good. Do you mix the 2 as feedstock and bedding? I guess what I'm trying to understand is whether you use horse manure as feedstock and feel it is an adequate feed by itself. I added soaked, torn corrugated cardboard to the horse manure because I'd read that it has excellent nutrition due to the high-protein glue that is used to hold the layers together. Another advantage that corrugated cb has is it's water absorbancy, so the 2 (horse manure and corrugated cb) mixed together make a good bedding and a good feedstock. But, you know, you can find all sorts of contradictions when comparing books, websites, and opinions...so I'm interested in what you find to be true, based on your experience. Cheryl, I have been freezing the food waste lately. It does seem to speed things up a bit, but there is still the issue of varying amounts of water being released, mold/fungus, and odors if you use too much or have strong smelling foods to vermicompost. I've found that as much as I want to keep food waste from the landfills, it's a lot of aggravation (too much water, mold, fruit flies, fungus gnats, march flies, houseflies, odors..etc), inconvenience (both of my freezers are half full of food waste for the worms, leaving only half for my own food), and guess-work involved in feeding food waste to the worms. Now, if I didn't have access to horse manure and corrugated cardboard, I would still use primarily food waste. But since I do have access to those materials, I much prefer using them. I have encountered very few issues/problems using horse manure and corrugated cb. So, I ease my conscious by reminding myself that these 2 items would have been dumped in a landfill somewhere, had I not taken them. I still plan on freezing some food waste to use as trench feedings in my raised beds. This practice has eliminated all issues/problems with using food waste because it is buried 4-6" under the soil, and I have many worms in my raised beds who process this food quickly (and thank me for the cold stuff when it's hot outside). The junk mail I use are advertisements for credit cards, various insurance, and a hodgepodge of solicitations. I just remove them from the envelope and tear into strips that could be used as bedding (I put them in the compost crate, so they will be partially composted by the time the worms get to it). I don't use glossy papers, not because they are bad for the worms, but because they take forever to break down and I don't like the look of them in the compost. The Vermiculture FarmersManual recommends shredding cardboard that has a waxed coating, so I assume wax is safe to use if shredded or had the wax seal broken in some other fashion . I've read that oils are not good for worms (I assume oil would smother them since they breath thru their skin), but I wouldn't think a small amount would be harmful. The boxes that you have should be fine. Most of the corrugated cardboard that I use has colored printing on it and I haven't noticed any problems with it (the majority of people say that most inks are soy based now). I also use shredded office paper in the indoor bin I just created, and to absorb water from the barrel bins outside when rain has been heavy, and that paper has been thru laser printers. I haven't seen any ill effects from any of the paper products I have used. Welcome to the thread, Cheryl. I look forward to reading about your experiences in the vermi-world....See MoreMy brand new worms...they've disappeared, disintegrated and
Comments (8)Hi there, Sorry to hear about your losses. I once killed about 2 pounds on a hot day. Not pretty. I've seen the main cause of death for a new worm setup seems to be overfeeding. You may not be doing this, but for 1000-1550 in the first month I would have fed maybe once and only about a cup full of kitchen scraps, maybe 2 tops. One other thing I read somewhere "The Burrow" I think, was that worms don't really enjoy the dramatic change in habitat when moved from one system (type of bedding, feed etc.) to another. When I started, I saw similar kind of thing as you. When the first generation seemed to be expiring, the new ones started to thrive. And as for the bottom liquid area, I had the same thing happen so I packed it full of dry shredded newspaper and voila, they were all happy down the bottom too. I would shovel this mixture once a month back onto the top, and put in new newspaper. Been using bread crusts? I have found that pot wroms seem to appear when I use too many bread crusts. They seem to love the sugary bread, so now I put the crusts in my compost bin, and only occaisionally into the worm factory or totes. Stick with the first batch for a few months, and see what happens. You might get a nice surprise in about 8 weeks (ie cocoons start to hatch). Remember, underfeed, not over feed. It's critical. I started with 3 lbs about 2.5 years ago (paid almost $100), and now estimate I have 35 lbs in 10 totes and one worm factory, which I give away free to people who are interested. Good luck...See Moreharry757
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