I use both. We have a large property. The bamboos are rather thirsty plants and do better with soaker hoses. My garden beds are densely planted - drippers are not a viable solution - if something were to go wrong, it would be a nuisance hunting for the source of the problem. So soakers go in there too. I use drippers for containers and also for spot irrigation of plants that are isolated from the main beds. Some of my soakers have been in the ground for 10 years, and are still working fine. They are not supposed to last that long, but with annual flushing and the odd repair jobs, I have not had to buy any new soakers in the last 3 years. Do not use the tiny 1/4 inch soakers - they do not work well, clots up easily, and can't be repaired. As for the drippers, I use a type of dripper head with completely adjustable flow, from zero to up to 13 gallons per hour. Lee Valley Tools sells them as B. & D. Shrubbler Spikes, and bought in bulk packages, they are the most economical I can find - at abut 75c a piece. They are supposedly the most used drippers in commercial applications. At 30 psi of pressure, and maximum flow rate of 13 gph, it throws out a circular spray covering 360°, to a radius of as much as 2 feet. Turned down low, it acts as a slow dripper. It is this flexibility that is the next most appealing feature. I do not have to select different drippers with different flow rates for different sizes of containers - something which turn out to be a real pain with fixed flow drippers I had used previously. I use them for containers as big as the 20 gallon box to the small 1 gallon nursery containers. The adjustable flow rate also makes it simple to deal with variations in flow and drops in pressure down the main supply line. The third appeal is that it will never (and i do say never)block permanently since the spray head is controlled by a screw cap that can be removed completely for cleaning. coverage. The fourth reason I love them is that they are tough and durable. Except for about 1/2 dozen where the inlet pot has been snapped off by an over zealous gardener (me!), the 200 or so scattered in my garden are all working well inspite of neglect and occassional abuse (by my lawn mower!). The othe advantage is that it does not seem to suffer frost damage - as long as the system is well drained and the caps are then screwed on tight. They come on a 6 inch spike - which is another reason I love them - they are difficult to lose. I manage to get by with a 6 station timer. The beauty is that once set, I don't have to do anything except a weekly inspection. I also use a siphon device to feed soluble fertilisers down the line. Keep in mind that if you want to do this, make sure that you have a reliable back flow preventer valve in the circuit.

ng, Spacing is not as important as time. You can run ay system long enough to get the proper water needs to the plant. The difficulty starts when you have different plants with different water need amounts on the same zone. You have the right idea about being able to shut off sections to cultivate the plot while growing other plots. Different vegetables have different life cycles. Soaker hoses are difficult because you can't control the amount of water coming from the hose (they also clog over time) as with drip tape or emitters. On the same zone you can have plants with larger drip rates and those with slower drip rates but it is trial and error to set up. It is better to have separate plant zones with similar watering needs together and just work out the time by trial and error method. You do have to initially check the water in the soil to see if plants are getting what they need. Your idea about getting water to the beds is a good one and the way I would do it. Make sure you pour some concrete at all the bends so they can't move (thrust blocks). JMHO Aloha

lehua, Unfortunately the money situation is such that I'm stuck doing this on my own. What difference would the pressure and flow of water have on grouping plants ? I'm no irrigation specialist but my logic tells me that once you have grouped your plants and/or established a drip scenario which could cover certain plants, then you need to know whether the water supply will allow it without breakdown into more zones - or have I missed something obvious ;) ? What I'm after is just a comment on whether my grouping of plants (which by default I made into separate zones) could be reduced i.e. are plants from one or more of those zones compatible in their water cycles to be joined into a bigger group / zone if the water supply allows it ? I had a few postings in this forum before about my concern about which plants could be grouped but the answers implied that you could water anything if the supply was there. As far as I understand fruit trees, citrus trees like deep watering - eg once a week. Vegetables every day or once every two days and so on. Which plants would you definitely put on a separate zone just because their watering needs are not compatible with others (forgetting about water supply for a start) ?

The ground has been dry under a few inches of surface moisture for a very long time and I think that's why I'm now seeing such an explosion of growth and bloom. After some time I will begin to study how much or little water the roses need, but at this point I think at least some of the roses have been short of sub-surface moisture for quite a long time and giving them more than necessary for a little while will not hurt them. Strangely, our water district actually has a surplus of water in its reservoirs because they've been importing water (don't ask!) so I don't feel that I'm causing any harm at this time, especially with El Nino coming soon. There will be quite a bit of fine tuning needed in the future to ensure we don't waste water but that the roses still receive the amount they require.