Look's like it started life as full glass that was later replaced with plywood. Custom order from most any door plant. Although more expensive,a cabinet shop can run them for you.

They were common round these parts 90 years ago. You can have them made today. Not cheap though.

How about this: Simpson Door

This is a pretty common door style, no need to go custom.

I have seen these from time to time at Habitat Restores and other recycle places.

Diane

You can even get one at Home Despot. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Krosswood-Doors-36-in-x-80-in-Shaker-1-Panel-Primed-Solid-Core-MDF-Interior-Door-Slab-KW-SH111-3068-SLB/206316360?cm_mmc=Shopping|THD|G|0|G-BASE-PLA-D30-Doors|&gclid=CN_Xha27-ssCFQckhgodi94JuQ&gclsrc=aw.ds

And one in real wood: http://www.jeld-wen.com/catalog/interior-doors/authentic/wood/all-panel#group=All&model=model1341

As noted, the doors aren't too difficult to find. if you are trying to match hardware, your problems are more expensive. I was at a door supplier recently and found many choices for doors (I was looking at birch to match existing) at very reasonable prices...a pleasant surprise!

Are you planning to replace the doors with new ones using the existing jambs and hardware?

The door originally shown doesn't have a flat panel with square sticking like a traditional shaker style door; it has some kind of beveled sticking. A close up photo would help identify what it is but it is often difficult to duplicate the older style sticking.

Here is a door company I like that allows you to see the different sticking available:

TruStile Doors from Colorado (click on "PROFILES" and select a flat panel)

VERY helpful responses everyone, thank you.

Cabot & Rowe, my home happens to be 88 years old. I have been completely renovating and am trying to reuse the doors, frames and all the moldings. Stripping a lot of paint...

Powermuffin there are 2 such stores within 10 miles of here, I wish I thought of them sooner.

I looked at both HD & Lowes in store stock and they had nothing similar. Hadn't thought to check their sites online. If I buy new, I will buy pre-hung otherwise I am trying to reuse doors, frames and hardware(love the glass doorknobs and deadbolt locks).

I attached a close-up photo JDS and that site doesn't have anything that matches. I do have a few doors that are not usable so perhaps I can remove from them and use on new. Regardless, if I get it to match that closely I will be happy and maybe one day locate an exact.

Thanks again...

If you don't mind the hours of work and lead paint, the old doors can be quite nice. From a contractors' standpoint, they are PITAs where a lot of money can be hard earned. This explains why contractors have new ones made. Choose wisely grasshoppah.

You can have mine ...

If you are going to go with white doors, that molding is probably available or cheap to make. In general, reusing old trim is difficult, especially the thin ones as they tend to break or splinter during removal.

Be aware that old houses with plaster walls require jamb extensions for standard prehung doors. A specialist door company will make jambs of the correct depth for an extra $30 or so per door. If you are doing stain grade, the new wood requires lots of work to match up to existing finishes and you will have to pay more to get solid pieces rather than finger jointed.

I'm right with you Cabot, I began stripping doors last fall. I had to stop due to the cold winter temps. I have 2 done so far. The multiple layers of poorly applied paint made the grooves almost nonexistent.

I need a couple of doors for a new closet and to replace doors with the incorrect swing.

Good information Linda. By molding, I meant the general base molding, door & window casings and the door headers. The base molding is 8" and is made of 3 different pieces, the door headers are 4 pieces. I think I can recreate it to replace broken pieces when necessary. I have removed the plaster and replaced with sheetrock. To make the door & window jambs work as is I shimmed each stud with lathe. It's not exact but it's VERY close. A little wood putty and/or caulk will fix the rest.

Bead & cove molding like that is really easy to make, so you could apply it to a shaker-style door with ease. It's also available commercially; one small size, there are larger versions of this basic profile: http://www.alleghenymillworklumber.com/glass-bead-moulding-trim-pine-f1841.html

Casey

Shimming out the studs to apply drywall is a lot of work - sounds like you are trying hard to maintain the original look and feel of the house. I'm a sucker for old houses and I try my best to reuse original materials when possible or substitute reclaimed materials of appropriate type instead of buying new.

Stripping doors isn't fun! Hopefully if they were stained and finished originally, you can get the paint off the top without too much mess.

Why do the new doors have to match? Are you keeping some of the old doors? Matching an old door usually involves custom sticking. Measure the thickness of the door. It may be thicker than 1 3/8" modern doors.

I agree with sombreuil, shaker style door with some matching molding applied inside. All it needs. You can order the shaker door then find the molding.

If you want everything exact the same it will have to be custom made.

The new doors have to match because I think having different doors in the same hallway, or room, will look silly. They do not have to match EXACTLY, but I do think it will look best if they are VERY similar, so much so that it is not noticeable.

I believe the old doors are thicker which allows for the vintage door knob and mechanism. I intend to keep my glass door knobs and skeleton key locks.

I may have to wait for a while to find what I'm looking for, I'm patient.

Thanks for everyone's input. Some very good suggestions.

The sticking on your doors is known as "cove and bead". The convex curved bead is next to the stile and the concave curved cove is next to the panel. In modern versions the position of the cove and bead are often reversed.

You can find old doors or you can have doors made in a shop or you could buy an 1 3/4 flat panel door with no sticking and add custom C&B sticking or you can use the modern modified version.

The mortise lock set can fit in 1 3/8 thick doors as well as 1 3/4 thick doors. Have you measured the door thickness?

older version

newer version

Ted, Old Nick is expert on Chimneys, doesn't do doors.

Now that's Entering into the spirit!

Haha, that was a Slam dunk!