Skeeter: We do want real wood but the reality is that we are on a budget and are trying to look ahead some. We could do real wood and have a 1.5 inch height difference w/out raising the other floor height but that wouldn't work well over all: we don't think it would work right and if we ever move in either of our aging parents then it becomes a tripping haazard. We could raise the level of the other floors but again that isn't really cost efficient unless tile can be raised that much using thinset mortar which I don't think can. Engineered wood floors seem like our best option. I like the look: some of the better ones look no different than solid wood. I've read that they wear well, too. But again we would not be able to use the nail down type or we will end up in the same situation that the solid wood floors would pose. We are going to have to find a good quality glue down or floating engineered floor.

For those of you complaining that a design professional wants to get paid for their work, I'd say they are providing a service to you that you can't do yourself, and they are entitled to be paid. What they get paid is obviously negotiated, but frankly, at minimum, a junior design professional should be paid $100 per hour for their work. Senior talent goes much much higher. It makes sense that the fee is credited if your designer is attached to selling a product. But if you don't buy their goods, they certainly should be compensated. Of course, never make the assumption when you go to the kitchen store that they are giving you the design services for nothing. Ask first before you start. No one gets hurt then.

It might be a good idea to find a picture or two in the finished kitchens blog that you really like. It is pretty simple to take an existing kitchen and "interpret" it. If you can post what you like and how ;uxe you want to go ($$) I am sure that you'll be able to accomplish everything with the help of the folks on here. Floor plans and the palette of the adjoining room(s) are also imporant. Because you are removing the wall, you are basically making the whole room a combined kitchen/living/entertaining area and it is not a good idea to try to treat them as separate spaces. In the second layout sketch - it looks like you have a cooktop aganst the back wall, however there is a range against the other wall. I think you could create some wonderful drama by moving the fridge over to where the range is in the second sketch. On the back wall - use a cooktop with one or two ovens underneath in mock-range configuration. Put great big pillars on either side of the area and spend half of your budget on the most beautiful mosaic backsplash you can find. Your elegance can come from the colouration. Use creams accented with darks and jewel tones to make impact in a gracious way.

Hi everyone! It's great to get input from the Houzz community. My husband was active duty AF for 27 years and we're finally making this house our own. Thanks so much for the great feedback particularly from @damiarain and @caligirl5. Also, I am working with a KD. I’m so grateful that you both took time to give in-depth suggestions and actually provide a revised layout. In response to your suggestions: - Fridge - Damiarain, IMO, Moving the fridge to the wall proposed on the end of the counter would make it stick out too much and the sides would show whereas one side is hidden by the stub wall now. We considered removing the stub wall but it’s pretty involved so we opted to take down the pantry only. Furthermore, as shown in the 1st and 2nd pics, the great room is across from the kitchen and I personally prefer the look of cabinets on that wall complemented by a new staircase and not a fridge protruding out. Also, the space isn’t very wide in the entryway and an open fridge would definitely block someone’s path into the kitchen from the great room if placed in the end. It might work in the center of the wall, however. - Damiarain, you said, “have upper cabinets only on either the wall next to the pantry or next to the fridge.” What would I do with the entire open space where the fridge presently is…that’s losing 83” on the fridge wall? Besides, I need the extra storage for all the stuff I've gathered at our various assignments. - I understand your suggestion about moving the range and it’s valid. The wall is 154” and we’re cutting down the width of the new pantry to 31” whereas the current pantry opening is 44 ½”. I’ll have to talk to my KD about the lack of sufficient prep space on the left. You’d think that would be a major consideration in presenting her design. However, I am installing a counter level bar which will give me lots of space to the left of the sink (above the dishwasher) yet it doesn’t resolve the issue of someone washing dishes and another cooking on the range. I don’t know what the answer is but there has to be one. - Good point about leaving breathing room around the hood and going with more drawers whenever possible. - @caligirl5…I have the sample block for antique white but it doen’t work well for my house. We live in Florida and have lots of windows so I need a more contemporary look although I don’t want bright white. I’m now thinking gray may be the answer since all the other whites may clash with my bright white crown molding. - Sorry about the dimensions and thanks for your recommended layout. I have a thing about storage and have lots of dishes/glasses so I don’t know about getting rid of the cabinets on the fridge wall entirely and putting. Furthermore, as stated previously, I’m concerned that a large full depth fridge on that wall may really be in the way vs. being tucked where it is now. - A previous design had the microwave across from the range in a drawer pretty much where the cooktop is now. I opted to put the microwave in the pantry and put large drawers there instead. I've attached pics of a new design keeping the same footprint with ceiling height cabinets and a picture of the torn down stair taken from my great room. I will definitely give all of your recommendations more consideration and I’m really thankful for the help.