"We should have a thread to keep track of Sub Zero pricing!" No, we shouldn't. It's a total waste of bandwidth. If you are curious about SZ or other pricing and are too lazy to call or email a dealer, then just post a thread here about your specific item and you'll probably get a response. Otherwise people just see outdated info and work themselves into a lather because they are getting ripped off. This thread is FOUR YEARS OLD ! ! ! In addition, SZ/WOLF have hundreds of items - too many to keep track of and updated in a forum like this. "Does anyone think it'd be worth it to see if there are cheaper ones in Reno, NV" I'm sure you'll find someone to indulge your price sensitivity, but even if a dealer in NV can sell/deliver to SanFran I'd be extremely surprised if you can save any money. You'll have a sizable freight charge off the bat, and SZ prices are pretty much fixed across the country so the price is pretty much the price. BTW, your would owe tax to the state of CA at the end of the year even if you imported it from NV ! Perspective: you are looking at a large fridge from a top of the line manuf. and you live in SanFrancisco - none of this is really conducive to bargain hunting !

Sounds like you are renovating the entire bathroom. You have a $2,550.00 Plumbing Allowance and the scope of work for your bathroom renovation is new tile, new fixtures, new trims, new vanity etc. I'm guessing that the bathroom may be 15-20 years old if you have noticed green corrosion on some of the fittings. Many old lines where never insulated and often these sweated copper joints where not wiped after being soldered. The combination of condensation and remaining flux can cause this to happen - it's possible your copper lines are in contact with another form of metal as well, perhaps a strap tie or tie wire. Local water conditions and pipe decay can build up in old lines and we rarely work off old product. If you wish to have the same water pressure into your fixtures 1/2" copper needs to be re sweated or better yet replaced. We like to switch to new 3/4" pex lines into the shower and branch off these lines in 1/2" pex to the basin and toilet. We isolate the new 3/4" home runs with 1/4 ball valves so we can pressure test the new plumbing lines prior to framing inspections. We find 3/4" pex gives us great supply rate and compares much closer to the original 1/2" copper lines. Any time you work off old lines you are bound to get debris into the new work. It is important to flush these lines prior to installing the mixing values and other plumbing fixtures. Debris caught in toilets can create strange noises and that caught in spray heads greatly decreases water pressure. Read the install manual with your new tub filler and it will ask for the cartridge to be pulled and the valve flushed. I believe it's a mistake to invest in a bathroom renovation without upgrading all these old water lines. Better to have it all tested and new and ready for another 15-25+ years of service. If your flipping the property these cost may seem crazy - if it's your home and a future repair involves redoing the floor and walls you can look at it as insurance. Flood your drain and vent lines with water or air. Do the same with the water lines. Wrap your pipes and get ready for the good stuff because the funniest part of the renovation is around the corner. You will never be sorry asking your contractor to tell you what the costs include. If your getting everything above and all the finishing the price looks reasonable I have paid more for similar projects but if your getting a few 'Shark Bites'* and all the old work stays it sounds a little high. Not having seen your project first hand - if you have found your builder to be fair and reasonable there should be no reason to think he is overcharging this one sub trade. Often I include a day of my wages in the plumber allowance to allow for my time planning routing and helping with the rough in. I like to see the valves level, the tub's filled and everything checked. Laying out the fixtures exactly takes time and these fees can be included in this number. *Shark Bites are code approved pipe connectors for switching from one pipe to another of different type. They can be used with no tools and speed up the process 5 fold. They are expensive and very handy it tight spots.

The timer is on the control board at the furnace. It is a cheap shortcut that benefits the dealer not the homeowner. I hope no less than Carrier Edge thermidistat was installed. This deserves clarification from the dealer. It is a big deal for the nice furnace you installed. If not two stage thermostat, you will be running on high stage whether needed or not. Will affect both your home's comfort as well as your pocketbook. I would want to know. IMO

Also, the wooden walls underneath the liner may have some holes and need to be patched. They told me it would be $50 (per foot I think) for a sheet of metal, if needed. There is no way to tell how much, if any, patching needs to be done before the old liner is removed. They did patch a large hole underneath my existing liner, two years ago. That liner was out of the track and the only way to properly repair it was to put the metal sheet patch over the hole. Two years ago when I had the liner repaired, I called 3 other pool compaines, they were the only one who told me I did not have to replace the entire liner, at that time. Are there any other ways I could cut costs, such as asking for a certain type of steps? They are putting in fiberglass/acrylic I think. I guess that is the best kind to put in on a budget?? Will they really last a lifetime like the company says? I was thinking I'd try to get it all done for $5000 instead of the $6000. Also get them to throw in enough bags of salt to get me started. I don't expect they will go that low, for $5000, but I am going to ask and if not try to bargain a little bit higher. How does all this sound?