Ok, so I got my results of the soil test back from UMass. Here are the results: -------------------------------------- Linestone and fertilizer recommendations for established turfgrass Apply 50 lb of calcitic limestone/1000 sq ft. Lime may be applied at any time, but mid-autumn or early spring is best Recommendation: 3 lb/1000 sq ft P205, and 4 lb/sq ft K20. To provide the above recommendations you may follow the directions below, or you may devise your own fertilizer program using the recommended amounts of phosphorus (P205) and potassium (K20) along with one pound of Nitrogen per 1000 sq feet. It may necessary to raise nutrient levels over several applications. Apply a 20-3-12 fertilizer @ 5 lbs/1000 sq ft in late April, late June, and very late August. If more convenient you may substitute the late April recommendation with the same application made 1 to 2 weeks after your last fall mowing. Follow these recommendations for two years. Retest the following year. Consult the interpretation sheet enclosed or obtain one of the turf guides referenced on the backside of the interpretation sheet. Micronutrient(ppm) Boron: 0.1 Manganese 1.3 Zinc 0.5 Copper 0.3 Iron 31.0 Sulfur 15.0 Soil Ph 6.1 Nitrogen: No3-N = 0 ppm BUffer pH: 6.7 Organic Matter 3.1% (desirable range 4 - 10%) nutrient levels (ppm) Phosphorus: 1 Potassium 45 Calcium 219 Magnesium 83 Cation exch Cap 4.0 meq/100g Percent base saturation K = 2.4, Mg = 13.9, Ca = 22.5 Micronutrient levels : all normal Extractable aluminum 128 ppm (soil range: 10 - 250 ppm) THe lead level in this soil is low. --------------------------- If I want to use organic fertilizer, do you have any recommendations for brands? Since I have missed the recommended late april application, can I apply one now, and still apply another in late June? If I apply the suggested lime amount, how will that affect the pH level? I am thinking of overseeding with kentucky bluegrass in the fall. Also i noticed in their interpretation sheet they mention that a Cation exch capacity of 10 to 15 is typical. and values below 6 may indicate the soil will have trouble supporting good turf growth unless special management techniques are employed. Should I be concerned? how can I increase this value?

Kurchian, The advice from your local nursery was to plant Annual rye grass with some wildflower seed. The annual rye seed would only grow this year and would not return or re-seed for next year in your zone. This is a quick temporary fix for your bank. To be clear there are different types of rye grass seed, perennial, winter, annual, etc and annual rye grass seed will not return next year or re-seed but will grow quickly with adequate water and sun and could provide a grassy area for this midsummer though fall . I suspect the recommendation for a hydro mat was due to your comment that the area is difficult to water. You might estimate the cost of the mat for your square footage as I suspect it could be pretty costly. What is your long term goal for this area?

Monica, you have to better describe the conditions of sun, shade, topography, drainage and intended usage of these lawn areas. Also, where you live and what planting zone applies to your area. There is a forum devoted specifically to lawns here. Check there first and begin your query to that forum with your location, zone and details I mentioned above. I have good and bad experience with all the turf grasses you mention. I will say that I am finding the least maintainance award goes to mature centipede, especially if you are a gardener with many veg. or flower beds. Bermuda and zoysia are thugs. Tall fescues are water hogs (but lush and soft year round). My present lawn is a conglomeration of Bermuda, fescue and centipede and the ever present soft green weedy growth that flowers so pretty in Spring. I don't water it, feed it or lime it so I can get 14-16 days between mowing. It's green, doesn't need poisons, foods or more than rainwater and it's what came with this old house. You have dormant rootlets of Bermuda now and I'd say look into when is the best time of year in your zone for plugging with centipede grass. They mix well and look the same in the cold months (tan) and you won't need much more than that. Once you have Bermuda, you have it forever (and so do all the neighbors whether they wanted it or not) . Once you have zoysia, plan on deeeeep edging of the metal type. That stuff is like miniature running bamboo in its strength to invade through asphalt driveways. I've seen it run under concrete sections and come up in the seams. In winter, their stiff dead blades track everywhere. So , check with the turf grass, lawns forum here.

The idea with cool weather grass is to help them get through the stress of the hot summer, which they do not like. To do this you feed it in the fall and winter before ground freeze, and once again in late spring (around now for fast acting inorganic, early may for organics). It is like an athlete carbing up the day before a competition. You need to eat in advance of the competition, not during. Likewise with your lawn. You don't want to feed it in 90 degree weather and force it to grow when it would just as soon take a nap and save its energy. For that reason I'd say skip anything that releases nitrogen during the hottest months. This might also encourage fungal attack under the right conditions. Just get the cheapest brand (usually Lesco) of high nitrogen, low everything else fertilizer. Sometimes you can find 50-0-0 or 42-0-0, something like that. As long as the first number is a lot bigger than the other two, you're fine. Follow the directions, and consider going organic, at least for part of the year, but that's another discussion.