Above photos focused more on the fruit. Here are some with the leafs.

And here is the tree in the middle of blooming with white flowers. I'm thinking this is our plum tree. We have two of these.

Two books that give good information for Texas peaches are Texas Peach Tree Handbook by Jim Kamas and Growing Fruits and Nuts in the South by William Adams and Thomas Leroy.

The pin holes in the leaves are caused by Bacterial Spot. It is controlled in the dormant season by using Copper hydroxide. I use it with dormant oil (oil to kill scale) in late winter before bud break. Too late to use it this year. The copper will kill the leaves.

Another main problem you will have is Brown Rot (use captan or Monterey Fungi-fighter. The Monterey seems to work better. Apply before a rain and use according to label until harvest. I try to stop using it 2 to 4 weeks before harvest. Also, remove any mummified fruit and remove from property. The mummified fruit will spread the fungi to other fruit.

Worms are another problem. Look up Plum Curculio. They make a distinctive mark ( a slit with a small spot). If you see this on a piece of fruit remove it immediately and spray with a pesticide. I use triazicide.

You also have bacteria canker and borers to worry about. You manage canker by not pruning after June and doing most of the pruning just before or at bud break. The borers are control by spraying in the window that they appear, for me in Beaumont it is in late June. I have not sprayed for borers but will if I ever have a problem. Agrilife Extension in your county will have good information.

Thinning advice, remove any twins and fruit that is oozing. Thin to about 4 to 6 inch spacing. Remember that the branch must support the full size fruit. If you have a chose between a peach on the end or one a couple of inch closer to the middle I would thin the one on the end. The fruit on the outside will usually be better quality that ones on the inside. Try to open up the middle of the trees so the leaves and fruit will dry quicker.

It is easier than it sounds and some people ignore all of the above advice and still produce fruit. I can grow peaches in SE Texas and it is much tougher to grow them here than where you are.

Gary,

Thanks for the insight and recommendation on the
books which I will order today.

I figured that we might suffer from not having
sprayed in the dormant phase. I will research bacterial spot further.
After many hours of research and finding that there is no one magical
solution nor does everyone follow the same protocols, I purchased:

Bonide Fruit Tree and
Concentrate Plant Guard

This is a relatively new product on the market
and more similar to commercial sprays. I certainly prefer organic but am
willing to make compromises especially considering that my trees have not been
properly tended at this point. I'm sure there are various opinions here
but not my focus. Bonide Fruit Plant Guard is made up
of Lambda-Cyhalothrin (insecticide in the pyrethroid family), Boscalid
(fungicide) and Pyraclostrobin (fungicide). Pristine is a commercial
fungicide that is a combination of boscalid and pyraclostrobin. I
planned on spraying it no more than 4 times this year (of course no spray 2
weeks prior to harvest).

Maybe this 3-in-1 product will be somewhat effective for minimizing further bacterial spot?
My understanding is that I can’t actually cure it but can minimize
further spreading? Other products you
would suggest for spot?

1. On the fruit and specifically “twins”, is
   this normal? What’s the best approach
   to prevent it or minimize it?

Thanks a bunch!

I've found a great article from MSU about bacterial spot:

http://msue.anr.msu.edu/news/management_of_bacterial_spot_on_peaches_and_nectarines

I'm able to still spray a few of my fruit trees with copper as some just having bud swell. However, my peaches are a different story.

I'm planning on purchasing Mycoshield which is also certified organic. Unless I get different advice. Maybe my peaches still have a chance....

mycoshield-fungicide-for-fire-blight-and-black-spot-2-lb-detail

Twin fruits are fairly normal. It can be a problem with the two growing so close that it can trap moisture and cause brown rot.

I don't think I would worry too much about the bacteria spot. It shouldn't kill the tree, just apply fertilizer and keep tree as healthy as possible. Certain varieties are more prone than others.