I like islands, and I agree that it would be nice to have seats at the peninsula (nice to work at that sink with a view through the big window, too), but this is such a small space, with 5 entries, I would be hesitant to put anything in the middle of the floor space, where everyone has to walk around, possibly passing by each other. Maybe not a lot of traffic from the scullery and MB/basement, but it seems that the other three would be busy.

keywest, I think your idea would work better this way:

MG: brilliant! Now, as much as we'd like to look out that window, let's put the sink and d/w on the window side of the peninsula. That gives the cook and the dishwasher direct access to the counters and cabinets in that awkward butler's pantry. . Stools on the chimney side now, where people coming in can plop down on to chat with the chef. Yes?

I'd also use a counter depth frig, put a microwave with built in recirculating vent above the range, and put the d/w on the pantry side of the sink (so it doesn't block access to the range when down). Or micro could just go on counter in pantry.

stools at peninsula can be backless such that they tuck completely under the counter overhang, so that the entire peninsula surface can be used as prep space

I'm willing to flip the peninsula for you, kw, but I can go only so far--I can't bring myself to include a recirculating hood. Blasphemy, I tell ya! ;)

I like MG's flipped plan, but I would still take out the chimney; you could do a nice built in two-tiered buffet piece from cabinets or a free-standing hutch along that soilid straightened wall. How much traffic would there be between the front of the range and peninsula in her design?

Well, I got some bad news about the kitchen this evening.

As we were working on the designs, we really liked the island idea, so we tried it with tape on the floor, but something was off. So, I grabbed my tape measure and found out...

The dimensions were wrong...

I got the dimensions from a professional (lowes), and turns out the kitchen is actually a few inches smaller in each dimension! It is 136.5 x 149. I had my wife measure too just to make sure. That means it is actually 3 inches thinner and 5 shorter than I originally thought. That's a big mistake for such a small kitchen. So, new base design, this time everything verified by my wife and I independently of each other.

There are a few "ifs" in this idea. If you're willing to move the entrance to the master bedroom/basement stair landing to the dining room side... If you're willing to move the opening between the dining and the kitchen... and --the big IF that started this idea-- if you can use the chimney as a chase for the exhaust hood ductwork.

In my (limited) experience changing interior doorways is a relatively small expense, so unless they're just not feasible according to the layout I think its worth considering. Folks tend to take exhaust pretty seriously around here, so I'm hoping using the chimney is an easy solution. I realize it could be all kinds of wrong, though.

I just read your comment about the mismeasurement. I'm sorry. That happened to us, but it was an architect who worked from dimensions that were bigger than our house. Had to scrap 6 weeks of work.

Glad you caught it before you got your hearts set on a layout.

Pity you won't recoup $$ spent moving walls because both MG's and BB's plans with a relocated bathroom give you a very nice kitchen.

Just to clarify, when you were told "by two professional realtors that foot print
or wall changes would not raise the house in value that much, if at
all" did they understand that changing walls would result in a much more functional space, something more along the line of what people expect in a kitchen (thanks to HGTV)? Or was it merely a blanket statement about moving walls? IMO, these aren't the same thing. If moving walls changes a very dysfunctional lay-out to a much improved lay-out, I would think that would impact perceived value. But I'm not a realtor.

Here's my idea.

It all hinges on removal of the chimney, which you said you were considering. No walls, doors or windows are moved. The rad is relocated towards the pantry.

The fridge would be something like this

Shaker Kitchen Renovation · More Info

I'm spec'ing a 30" wide, CD fridge. Choices are slim but there's a bit of wiggle room on that run. Put tray storage over the fridge.

Shaker Cherry Kitchen · More Info

The dish hutch against the wall would be something like this, facing the side of the fridge.

Bell McKinnon Residence · More Info

You'll lose some base storage against the wall because the rad will block access. I spec'd a 18" wide DW but you could do a 24" instead. You'd lose some drawer storage. In that case, I'd move the DW to be between fridge and sink so that you have more elbow room between fridge and sink.

Pots and pans hang on hooks on the wall above the rad, similar to this:

Saddle Butte · More Info

The butler's pantry is now a walk-in pantry with floor to ceiling shelving to provide lots of storage. You can add a narrow door to it or leave it open. A 44" wide pantry with 12" shelving on one side will have a 32" aisle, which is doable for a walk-in pantry.

Big pluses: no corner cabs, decent sections of counter on each side of range and sink, no traffic paths through kitchen when going from one room to another.

One caution: check that a 37 1/2" wide aisle will be sufficient space to move large items up the stairs.

Just saw your note about being off on the measurements. My plan is based on 150" top to bottom so only off 1" there and 138" side to side, so only off 2" there. Still doable, IMO.

Here's another peninsula layout. I have a standard depth 36" wide fridge and the DW on the 77" wall. On the L counter, 30" sink, then 12" cab for cutting boards, trays etc. In the corner a 27" deep, 27" wide drwrs facing the exterior wall, after the corner 9" pullout for oils/spices, 30" range, 15 drawers. In the narrow part of the room, a tall cab and MW, and 8-9" deep shelves.

The different colored part of the counter are drop down counters like this.

Rustic Home Office · More Info

Can you please post a plan of the entire floor that is a bit more neatly/thoroughly rendered and completely labeled? I feel as if we must be missing some probably very important information. Is the master bedroom (I'm assuming that's what MB means) really separated from the sole bathroom on this floor by the stairs and the kitchen? Does the master bedroom have a hallway? Is there a foyer at the front entrance?

So, hot water heat & a recent convert to gas? Can you ditch the radiator & do under-floor heating (water)? Then you can do whatever you like with the window area AND have a toasty kitchen floor in the mornings.

The weird "pantry" area...you said you had a young 'un, but not how young--I'd almost consider making it kid space. Maybe put a big soft chair in the back of it for reading--doubles as a place to sit with a book/computer while you wait for something to cook / away from TV, etc, in LR--and some kid play space. Not sure what yours is into, but mine could always use some space that wasn't "keep clean always" for building trains, legos, setting up stuff.

For sure get your sink somewhere other than down that weird corridor, what were they thinking?!?

Lisa,

That idea has some real potential. I sketched it up and it looks like this:

The "Pots and pans hang on hooks on the wall above the rad, similar to this:" I think that is a great idea for the 41 inches by the bathroom wall, on the side of the chimney. Thats a good way to use that kind of dead space.

benjesbride, I really like how you closed off that wall, but unfortinatley, I can't open it up at that spot. That wall houses all the plumbing to the second floor, and on the other side is a real beautiful built in cabinet. I'd have to rework the entire plumbing to the second floor. I'm not afraid to mess with any first floor plumbing, but the second floor is too scary :)

Jillius, I'll try to post it tonight, but baby is already in bed so I can't measure her front lower room.

Meganmca, I've tried to price out floorboard heating, but for some reason I can't get anyone real familiar with a hydro base system. Out here, they mostly use electric. What I can do, and have been talking about, is what is called a toe-kick heater. It is a small unit that goes underneath a cabinet that pushes hot air out at the level of the floorboards. The unit is like 3 inches high, so it fits right under the cabinets to give a warmth at foot level. Here is one from Home Depot.

Thanks again everyone for the help. I've been very much encouraged by the ideas. It just might be that this kitchen may turn out amazing.

Is there a room behind the sink?

Glad my idea is helpful.

I think you'll be happier with the sink in the middle of the space between fridge and wall, not smack up against the side of the fridge. At least I'd always be hitting my elbow when working at the sink. And then cussing the lack of space. =)

Get a decent sized one bowl sink and get a cutting board that fits over part of it to increase counter space, like this:

Jennifer & Steve's Kitchen · More Info

I think that you will have many more and better design choices if you can eliminate that hot water radiator. Having the refrigerator heated by either the fireplace on one side or the radiator on the other is very inefficient. Getting rid of the one will give you more space/options.

The reason I opted for an island (I prefer peninsulas generally) is that you have doors on every single wall and I think that people will want to walk through the kitchen and you will want them to walk through on the other side, the one where you are not working.

Is there another floor to this house? Sometimes those radiators are put in a line and if you eliminate this one you may be causing a problem on the other floor.

It sounds like anathema, but what if you just closed off the butler's pantry entirely? Move the radiator to either the wall by the stairs or by the chimney. Then you could have a nice L-shaped kitchen along the left and back wall. I solves the problem of not enough contiguous wall space.

Did you say you have a second staircase to the basement? If so, can you abandon the basement stair off the kitchen and move the bedroom entrance to the wall that's common with the living room? It would just be nice to have a corner for continuous workspace.

How about just creating a hallway to the stairs and a wall for the sink and fridge. In this layout I think removing the chimney and adding a wide opening between the galley-style kitchen and the dining room are worthwhile changes.

benjesbride, there is no second staircase to the basement. Just the one. Also, there is no room behind the sink. It is an exterior wall.

cawaps, If I just close it up, that may give me a needed corner, but then I am loosing that real estate. There must be a better way.

I looked at your version of my plan again this morning and noticed that it doesn't look like you are planning to remove the chimney. 29" is not enough of an aisle to move appliances into the kitchen or enough room to move furniture into other rooms (I'm assuming that there isn't another exterior door on the 1st floor). The plan is unworkable with the chimney in place.

I also don't think it works as well with a full size, standard depth fridge. 38 1/2" between fridge and range is barely enough room to move the fridge into place.

I agree with cawaps: I think it's time to consider closing up the butler's pantry. I have an idea. I'll draw it up and post it shortly.

Where are your washer and dryer? In the basement?

If you can shift the sink and toilet in the bathroom as shown below (toilet only needs to rotate 90 degrees), then you could have a pocket door from the bathroom into the pantry area so it would still be useable for storage (or maybe for laundry, as lisa may be hinting).

(Note that I didn't make any changes to the kitchen plan, but closing that corner as cawaps suggested would open more possibilities.)

I was hinting about moving laundry, atmoscat, but without more dimensions for the bathroom and hallway area, I'd only be guessing at how to make it work.

In the meantime, I worked up a kitchen plan that closes off the butler's pantry corner. No walls are moved or changed, no doorways or windows are moved. The only structural work will be closing off the butler's pantry access and adding headers to recess 15" deep pantries into the kitchen/DR wall, all of which should be fairly minor, especially since you wrote that plumbing to the upstairs is in the wall between LR and bedroom.

You will, however, need to swap out the rad for a toe kick heater and remove the chimney.

I broke my idea up into 2 phases. Here's Phase 1.

Whatever cab line you choose, I strongly encourage you to do frameless to get the most use of your small space and to do all drawers for the 30" cab.

The fridge is a 36" wide, standard depth fridge: 30" deep box, 33" deep from back to doors; 35" deep to handles. The aisle width between fridge and opposite counter is measured from fridge door to counter edge; subtract about 2" to get the distance between fridge handles and counter edge.

Baking pans, trays, cutting boards, etc are stored in the cab above the fridge per the photo I showed above.

I'd prefer the aisles on each side of the fridge to be a bit more generous but even so, I think that the aisles are sufficient enough to allow you to move furniture upstairs and into the bedroom on the right without too much difficulty (going around the corner to the stairs to go up will take some careful planning for bigger items but should be doable.)

Green lines show upper cabs. MW is an OTR MW (Over The Range).

The pantry cabs are recessed into the wall about 3". As I wrote above, you will need to add headers to do this but IMO, it's worth it to gain those 3" because the 15" deep cabs will then only require 12" of kitchen space. Here are examples of pantry storage in stud space.

100 Square Foot Kitchen Remodel · More Info

The set-up I'm suggesting will provide deeper storage, more like this. The MW drawer requires a 24" deep cab so about half the base depth is hidden in the wall.

Woodmeister - Kitchen 4 · More Info

If you want or need more upper storage, you could hang shelves across and above the window, like this:

Mt. Baker · More Info

Okay, Phase 2.

The bathroom vanity is theHemnes sink cab from IKEA.

Traditional Bathroom · More Info

I don't know what kind of windows you have but if they are wood, you'll likely need to swap it out for a vinyl one and then tile to the window to make it waterproof for the tub area. Oh, you'll also want to get it in obscure glass for privacy. Here are a few inspiration pics for you:

Tamara Mack Design - Interiors · More Info

Children's Bath · More Info

Small bathroom with skylight · More Info

I understand that you're dealing with budget constraints and that you don't want to overspend since you were advised that you'd likely not recoup costs incurred to move walls. That said, I think you also need to remember that remodeling a kitchen will require X amount of money, no matter what. If that money is not spent wisely - if you end up with a kitchen that is nearly as cattywompus (technical term, ha) as you currently have - that may very well impact your ROI despite your efforts. Future buyers may look at your kitchen and think "I'm going to have to spend X to fix this" and discount their offer. It's a fine line being penny wise and pound foolish.

We installed heated floors using prewired electric mats laid in a concrete base with tile over top it all. It changed the floor's elevation by 1/2". IIRC, heated floors using hot water heat require even more of an elevation change than that. Electrically powered heated floors may not be as cost efficient to use but might be easier to retrofit into an older home. Perhaps a combo of toe kick heater and electrically heated floors might be enough to replace the rad's heat.

Have you posted for help in the Heating and Air Conditioning, The Old House, and/or the Remodeling forums for more information? If not, you should ask for help in those forums.

This floor plan reminds me a lot of that other recent kitchen that was constrained by a narrow pantry in the exact location and also had four doors and a stair case. So challenging! My favorite solution to the other kitchen was blocking off the pantry and expanding a neighboring room. I think that's the same for this space.

lisa_a: nice work!

I can understand OP's reluctance to tackle that chimney, and I don't think there's any need to take it out. What a hassle.

I also don't think there's any need to punch through the wall into the dining room, requiring headers, etc... Just put up whatever shelves might fit there, even if shallow. If more storage is needed, why not just install cabinetry on the other side of the wall, in the dining room? Combo kitchen storage and dining room hutch and buffet?

In addition to replacing the radiator with a toe kick heater, there is also the issue of the window height:. The base of the window will be lower than the sink and DW cabinets. Is that okay, or is there a reasonably easy/inexpensive way to handle that?

i think we should keep phase 1 as easy and simple as possible for the OP.

Here's an idea book I found about how to handle a low window:

https://www.houzz.com/magazine/great-solutions-for-low-kitchen-windowsills-stsetivw-vs~25381595

"...have been advised by two professional realtors that foot print or wall changes would not raise the house in value that much, if at all...."

What Lisa said plus...

********** Warning! I'm going to be very blunt! **********

I disagree with those realtors - I would low-ball this house b/c of the Kitchen as it stands. As others have said, I'd subtract off whatever I thought I'd need to gut and redo the Kitchen - if I even gave it a second look. This Kitchen is totally dysfunctional - that's probably why you got it at such a low price - no one else wanted to deal with it!

If you don't do something about it, it won't get any better.

Do you want to be stuck in the same situation when you try to sell in 5 years? Or, do you want to make it something that others will see as a great space?

Not being willing to make structural changes is hurting your ability to get a good design. While we can do wonders here, we aren't miracle-workers - there's only so much you can do given the constraints. If you cannot afford it, that's one thing, but if you're basing decisions off what some realtors told you, then I think you need to rethink your constraints.

Something to keep in mind that I'm sure those realtors did not take into consideration...when you remodel, it's not just for resale, it's also for your use. If you do it right, you will get 5 years of functional workspace instead of 5 years of frustration b/f selling. So, the cost of a remodel isn't just "how much $$ you can recoup", it's also how much pleasure/peace/use you will get out of it as well - and the latter is far more important!

Those realtors don't have live in this house, so what do they care about its functionality while you're living there? If you were going to sell tomorrow, then they'd be right, but you have to live and work in that Kitchen for the next 5 years!

I strongly recommend you listen to the advice you're receiving here - no one has an ulterior motive or an investment in the space - they're all just trying to help you get something that (1) will not cause you angst over the next few years and (2) will ultimately help you when you have to sell in 5 years.

What if you're wrong about the job? What if goes beyond 5 years or you find something you really like where you are now and decide not to move? Then you've suffered for 5 years for nothing!

I appreciate the input. The reason the realtors have said such is for this particular house in this particular market. Since the shooting, everyone is abandoning Newtown. Plus, this is an entry-level home. Those that will be interested in it are more than likely going to be young couples (aka me) or retirees downsizing. The two realtors are worried about pouring tons of money into a project that I am never recuperate. I've been advised to look at this project as more of a way to draw in more buyers than as a way of raising the value of the home.

Also, I do have to redo the upstairs bath, so I don't want to throw all my money at the kitchen when I have to redo the upstairs shower as well.

I know for sure my job will be gone in 5 years, since part of my job is as a consultant closing my position down. On the bright side of it, its more up to me when it is over. Plus, I pretty much have a guarantee for a promotion once we leave. Complicated situation that if you knew all the details would make perfect sense.

We have thought about moving the bathroom around, but I just look at the money and think of having to redo two bathrooms and a kitchen in a few years making middle of the road income as too strenuous. The downstairs bath has two load bearing walls, so it's a little awkward to try to change it all. I do have a GC looking at the cost, but I also have a load bearing wall upstairs I HAVE to move (That bathroom upstairs is soooo out of code). I like the idea of putting in the laundry upstairs, I'll have to measure the bathroom when I get home. As of this second, I can tell you that moving the sink 90 Degrees is going to be tough. The room sits like this:

lisa_a, I did post this exact same thing onThe Old House, and DIY Kitchen forums. So far, however, neither have answered. (I even did a video and submitted it to Ask This Old House, asking for a designer's help).

I hope I don't sound too whinny or too much like a guy wanting help but not doing anything himself. I'm just trying to use the power of the interweb to get some other ideas. And, honestly, you guys have been outstanding! I appreciate ever last comment, I really do. This forum has been really encouraging so far that there may yet be a solution!

In addition to replacing the radiator with a toe kick heater, there is
also the issue of the window height:. The base of the window will be
lower than the sink and DW cabinets.

How did you come to the conclusion that the window is lower than counter height, keywest? I've re-read every one of the OP's posts and did not find that information at all.

Even if that were the case, it's not an insurmountable problem. In addition to the link you posted, here's how GWer Lauraeds handled that situation in kitchen, Counter in front of windows. (psst, so worth visiting her reveal thread, too, New Reveal (long) - Garage into Kitchen!)

I can understand OP's reluctance to tackle that chimney, and I don't think there's any need to take it out.

If the chimney isn't removed, my plan won't work: there won't be enough clearance between chimney and range run counter. 34 1/2" is not enough room to move a full size fridge into the kitchen and barely enough room to move a 30" range into place.

I added a 24" w, 15" d pantry cab to the right of the chimney. There's room for another pantry cab to the left of the chimney but I've no idea what size to spec because I don't have the dimension for that little bit of wall before the jog in the wall.

Another option is a 30" wide, 12" deep cab against the fridge, opening facing the DR wall. There's *just* enough room between fridge box and doorway to basement stairs and bedroom for that to work. You'd have to give
up the pantry cab to the right of the chimney, though. There isn't room to do
both. You'd have a 44" aisle between left
front corner of pantry cab and right front corner of chimney.

It would be something like this:

Custom Kitchen Pantry and storage · More Info

That's not an IKEA cab size so you'd either need to use another
line or do a hack to make it work.

Reach England, we were cross-posting so I missed your latest comments.

First off, I can not imagine the heartache that dwells in Newtown. I would hope (and expect, honestly) that the current exodus will turn around at some point and people will return. It might not be within 5 years though, so I see the realtors' points.

Dang, I was not expecting the walls to be load-bearing between bathroom and butler's pantry. Is this a Cape Cod and there is a gable above it? That would change things.

Still turning over ideas....

I suspect Lisa's right - if there's anything else to draw people, perhaps people will return, but I don't think it will happen in the next few years - there were/are too many young families (and extended families) affected. It may take a decade or more.

I feel for all of you - both those directly and indirectly affected - and pray you all find some peace one day.

Would this be possible?

I drew this up with the following in mind:

Kohler's Rialto toilet. It's only 25 1/4", front to back, so you'll have the required 24" in front of the bowl.

IKEA Hemnes bathroom vanity. It's only 32 5/8" wide and 19 1/4" deep. That leaves you 24 1/4" in front of the vanity. Code requires a minimum of 20".

The tub is this adorable, Carter mini clawfoot tub. At only 43 1/2" long, it *just* fits in a 44" wide room. I'm assuming that you need to keep a tub downstairs for kids' use.

I spec'd a pocket door. You'll need to consult a structural engineer for that since you'll need to install a header double the width of the door plus 1" for a pocket door.

The other option is to go with double swing doors that, combined equal a 30" to 36" opening. You will need to open both doors each time but the narrower doors won't intrude into the space as much as a single door.

MASTER BEDROOM/BATH SUITE · More Info

2013 Park City Showcase of Homes by Utah Home Builder, Cameo Homes Inc. · More Info

That leaves the old bathroom free and clear for the washer and dryer to move up from the basement.

So, continuing...

Could you give us a synopsis of what can/cannot change - if it's changed at all since the original post that started the thread? There are so many to go through that it's tough getting it all straight.

I think this is what there is to work with...please correct me if I'm wrong...

• No walls can come down
• Can doorways be moved?
• Can windows be changed?
• The chimney cannot be eliminated or changed
• The radiator could possibly be eliminated or moved
• The Bathroom cannot be changed
• You do not want to shut off the small extension to the left - but...
  -- Could it be made part of an outdoor space instead - change the window to a door and add a small sink and, possibly, other outdoor kitchen accessories? I know it gets cold in New England (I grew up in Western New York - outside of Buffalo. It's farther south than you are, so I assume the weather is even colder/snowier.) Since it's part of the house now and in a conditioned space, it shouldn't be an issue winterizing it.

This might seem a little wacky, but expounding on atmoscat's idea to
have access to the scullery area through the bathroom, can the bathroom sink be
recessed into the area where the current kitchen sink is, with rollout
shelves in the alcove? An opening in the wall between that area and the
kitchen would provide a way to open a door and slide pantry items across
the counter. You could still have an upper cabinet above the pass-through. That gives you space for an 'L'. With help from your plumber
connection, maybe it wouldn't be such an expense, and bonus is a
slightly bigger bathroom.

I drew a sliding door, but the door to the pantry could open into the bathroom, for easier access, and groceries, could be dropped on the kitchen counter, then pulled in to the pantry via the pass-through.

Rollout similar to this:

lisa_a: I could have sworn it was this thread that had the low window, but I could be mistaken. My apologies. Even if it is low, the link you provided proves that it's no big deal to put cabinets right up against it, so that point is moot. I fully appreciate your layout, but I sense the budget and will for too much reno does not exist, so was looking for ways to make everything work within the assumed constraints.

No need to apologize, keywest. I just wanted to make sure I hadn't missed something.

btw, I have amended my Plan B with the chimney intact (lay-out C above).

Found it! "If we do ditch the radiator, we'd have to change the window (It sits approx 30 inches off the ground, so it'd be below the counter. I'm thinking bay or box window if we do.". --> I had to click the link to show more posts at the top.

Whoa! Are visible posts being limited?! It was 500 visible, with archived posts available with a click, but archived posts haven't available for a couple of months. Or did I misunderstand? FWIW, I can see all 65 posts.

I see them all as well. Granted you have to refresh the page if you leave the page up, but all previous posts should stay.

Where are you seeing "show more posts"? I've never seen that except on the "Activity" page when looking at posts/comments.

Oh, you're looking at via your mail, not via the actual thread. Bring up the thread itself using the URL, you'll see all the posts then. http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/3608259/hardest-kitchen-to-design-take-a-look-and-please-help

It also looks like you're using a mobile app instead of the full site - maybe that's the problem as well.

Reach England - I wrote it above, but I think it's worth repeating that we honestly did have a great experience removing our chimney and fireplace starting at the roof, through our single level and working down to the basement. Our chimney was about twice the width of yours and the fireplace was a huge. Once we decided to remove it our floor plan changed from being a collection of compromises to a functional space.

I think you said chimney removal will impact the upstairs bathroom, but you're renovating that anyway, right? The extra square footage up there might be nice.

If your chimney is not providing structural support for the house (we had a structural engineer come out and make sure for $60,) I think the cost/benefit of removing it and opening up the space is worth reconsideration.

As a DIY it cost us two days of an impact chisel rental and a small drop box rental. Our GC patched the roof as part of our whole renovation. I honestly doubt hiring someone to remove the chimney will cost much relative to a new kitchen. To save money, you could just have them take it down and you can haul the bricks off yourself.

I'd like to echo those that have said to consider changing the bath around to get a better functioning kitchen. In terms of selling it may not add to your price, but it would increase your buyers pool, unless all other houses in your area have quirks like this. There are always threads on the buying and selling a home forum where people are wondering why it is taking them so long to sell and their feedback from buyers is the layout didn't work for them. Having things looking nice and new in the kitchen doesn't help with that. Here is a current thread on the buying and selling forum where the feedback is the layout. The way to get around that is either lower the price or remodel. Well it doesn't let me copy the link in, the topic is "Lots of showing but no offers"

Sorry for such a long time without a responds. Three things happened that have changed my situation.

First, my boss has announced his departure. With his leave, I have been offered a contract to keep my position until the beginning of 2018, where we will review from there. It is my opinion that I will be moving away from CT in 2018.

Next, CT's 3rd largest employer just announced they are leaving the state for MA. CT is now suggesting we raise taxes to recover the amount leaving. This includes 13 cents per gallon gas and a property tax increase. Quote from the webpage the cheat sheet, " A recent report from the Department of Revenue Services shows Connecticut taxpayers pay more in local property taxes than any other taxes, including income taxes."

The other thing was a shooting right by a high school in Newtown (I have no idea if it made national news). No one was hurt, but we are expecting to see another slump in our market.

I have been advised than to wait until after the election to do any major remodel to have a better gauge on the market. I appreciate all the help, and once I get some security with my future plans, I am sure I will be back on.

Best wishes to you, your family and your community through these changes, RE.

Oh, wow, sorry to hear all this unsettling news, RE. It's a good idea to wait it all out. Fingers crossed that things improve more than hoped or expected.

Gook luck in whatever you decide, but this is just to add to your knowledge base about the chimney. We were in the same position a few years back. Our chimney was solid 1923 brick and it went from the basement, all the way through the roof. Taking it down was not nearly as bad as we thought. Hired a local guy who brought in his buddy to help. Took 1.5 days. They did the roof section really fast as a big chunk and patched the roof. The next day they knocked a larger partial opening at the basement level. One guy was at the top, knocking the bricks out and dropped them down the center, while his buddy loaded the buckets
and hauled them outside. I was amazed at how little mess there was- - compared to what I imagined. (ha ha!) It cost us about $1500 (Nebraska rates. :D) But it saved more than that because it allowed us to remodel in a way that improved the value of the home rather than deal with an awkward work-around.

Can you send me the workers that worked on destroying the chimney? Im in California, what state are you from?