Badly needed kitchen update - Issues
Cynthia L
8 years ago
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8 years agoCynthia L
8 years agoRelated Discussions
don't know which proper a/c to get. need help badly
Comments (81)If you second floor is not cooling, you most likely have a poor cold air return on the second floor. Increasing the condenser size will make the condition worse. You must return 60% of the air, in a 2-story home, near the ceiling on the second floor. Hot air will float on the cold air. Without a process to remove the warm air from the ceiling the cold air will stay in the first floor. If you can feel your head getting hot as you climb the stairs and air is comming from the vents, it's the return. Poor air flow is common place in new construction homes. New construction homes are sized for A/C using the worse case sonero. Front facing SW because that is where the summer heat comes from and most of the windows are. Winter time loads are based upon the front facing NE. Now, every home in the development will get that HVAC package plus a little for Grandma.( 1/2 ton to a ton extra and twice the number of Btu's in the furnace) Why? Because neighbors will compare sizes and the developer does not want to explain to the customer about Manual J, if he even knows what it is. A good load calc program will allow you to rotate the building and see how the direction the home faces changes the load. SEER tells you how efficiently the equipment converts electric to cooling. Btu/$. 13-SEER will give 13,000 Btu/ kW. 15-SEER= 15,000 Btu/kW. etc. If you think a larger A/C unit is better, you are mistaken. A properly sized unit will yeil a home with lower humidity and more comfortable. If the home needs 2-/2 tons and 5 tons is installed, cooling costs will be the same if identical SEER units are installed. the 5 ton unit will run 1/2 the time amd the house will be more humid. Remember, SEER= Btu/$. so operating costs will be the same, you will not be as comfortable and your wallet will be lighter than it should. The internet is a good way to find out about contractors and a poor way to size an air conditioner. Find a responsible contractor, have him do a Manual J (heat load) and go with his recommendations. Do not pay attention to what the guy next door has. He may have a friend that knows a guy that installs A/C. Run like a deer from that guy. You may get a good price but no comfort. BIGGER IS NOT BETTER. When it comes to air conditioning....See Moreneed ideas for super-cheap kitchen update
Comments (37)I am in awe of the progress and the difference, kdw72697 !!! And your Little Helpers are just toooo precious! Let us know as soon as you decide what you are going to do with the track lighting, and any other changes, of course! :) THIS is my kind of Topic....anything to do with the words "Super-Cheap", and I'm there. Fantastic Suggestions throughout this topic and I'm so grateful you all posted them! Everyone who posted pics....THANK YOU! I am always on the look-out for new ideas, inspiration, anything "budget-minded" to freshen up my own home. The colors you've used, the kitchen set-up...all ideas that motivate and inspire me! Igloochic, Your home....always an inspiration at every turn...especially since I use paint and paint techniques to create something a little nicer than the norm (the 'norm' that I can't even afford!) ....I've used your home pics more than once to get me motivated. Here's my latest budget project...maybe someone else can benefit from it in their own budget-minded kitchen. Real Travertine Tile Trim was NOT in the budget but the discounted/discontinued tiles we purchased looked so nekkid without something on top (the discontinued tiles didn't have bull-nose or anything close to matching). A length of cheapy wood chair rail molding, some left-over stucco in the bag from an earlier window re-do and my paints and some good sealer..... (I DID resize these pics to make them smaller...I hope it worked!)...See Moreupdate--more issues w/slab/fabricator? Need advice!
Comments (9)Thank you both for responding! The fabricator is going to contact the supplier about the finish. I'm hoping that maybe honing it can alleviate the etched look. I do believe that some of the reflection has to do with the minerals in the stone. The stone is quartzite, but from testing, it seems to at least have some calcite within it. This is what leads me to believe that some areas may be etched. The stove and old counters were both in place at the time of measure, so I really don't know how the gap got so large. I can see where the old counter ended, and it definitely was closer to the stove. The counter on my smaller cabinet doesn't even go flush with the cabinet edge on either side (it's a very small amount smaller than the cabinet.) The larger cabinet actually does have an overhang towards the stove. (When the stove is centered, there's about the 1/2" on each side.) Unfortunately, I really like the section that was used over the smaller cabinet, and I don't think there's a nice, whiter section left on the slab to replace it. (I worked around a large dark area in my slab to leave it out.) The sinks are mounted to the counter material, not plywood. There's no plywood under the counters from what I see (at least in bathroom). The fabricator would not even call for my slab to get shipped to them until they had my sinks, so that's just another annoying factor in why they should be right! Plus, while waiting for my sinks, the supplier sold my 1st slab--just another little stab! The exact day I dropped off the sinks is when the slab (held w/deposit) was sold. I know mistakes happen, but when spending quite a bit on an expensive material, it's even more upsetting. Plus, after my first slab being sold, these mistakes just seem even worse. Thanks again! I'll be calling Monday to see what their options are. This is a huge help to defend my case in the mean time!...See MoreNeed Layout Help With Narrow Kitchen with Window/Door Issues
Comments (12)Oh, no, really? I have no experience of zoning in high-density zones. What's the rationale? ACTC, I take you at your word that you really want a peninsula for 2. So, my fancies for you: 1. Keep the back window for SURE. Your home would truly feel half the size, and have half the natural light, without it. Plan on developing what you see out there as part of your remodeling, staged if necessary. Creation of a charming and pleasurable view is almost always possible. As said, the side window and door could have frosted or some other form of decorative glass if desired. Put the peninsula opposite the first window, connected on the left wall. A small cabinet could take advantage of the little wall space created between the peninsula and the divider wall, and the stools would fit neatly into a separate space that's been created apart from the dining area right next to them. With this setup, traffic will flow along the staircase, with furniture arrangement to the right, then swing right at the dining area, allowing furniture placement to the left. The view from the bottom of the staircase and front door will be semidiagonal right on back to the window and on out. Assuming it's legal, put the door outside at the second window where there'll be no congestion caused by door swings and comings and goings, also less of a walk to the back. Build the rest of your kitchen in as an L on the left and across the back, with a 30"-deep counter on the long arm, and the back if you wish. If a island cart that pulled out from under the counter could be integrated, that would be very useful. Just don't put it on the right wall where it'll clutter up foot and visual traffic. Open traffic ways are especially valuable in making a small home feel more spacious and allow you to get away with more clutter elsewhere. I like it. I'd be ready to start thinking of finishes if I weren't wondering where the refrigerator should go... :)...See Morecaminnc
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