Wet Sub-Floor
Missi Smith Design Co.
8 years ago
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zorroslw1
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoMissi Smith Design Co.
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Asbestos Tiles on wood floors with no sub floor
Comments (2)Asbestos in tiles is quite inert, especially if left undisturbed. Sanding is another story, so yes, you're wise to get it tested, but it sounds like you'd be unlikely to have been exposed just from being in the basement, doing laundry, etc. You could take some sort of swab sample of the dust in the ducting, I suppose, if there's even enough material to test. You'd need to consult with the lab in advance to make sure you'd get what they needed, and in an adequate amount. Most of the labs that test for asbestos commercially are looking at things like your tile and they are trying to tell if it is 1% or more asbestos, because that is regulated differently. You'd probably get a "non detect" result from your HVAC unless you went somewhere very specialized....See MoreWide plank hardwood floor questions
Comments (4)Rift and quartered flooring is going to be more stable because of the movement in cell structure. Vapor barrier underneath the flooring is something that is a minimal investment for an invaluable benefit. You might be fine without the vapor barrier 90% of the time, however, if you were to have a warranty claim this is a big red flag for any flooring inspector. The vapor barrier does not completely block moisture from coming through, rather it allows moisture to pass through at a safe level for your hardwood flooring. A good example is if the basement floods and you have the vapor barrier installed underneath your flooring on the main level, it might save your hardwood from cupping. Having finish on all sides of a plank is useful for slowing down the moisture changes in the wood allowing it to withstand small fluctuations in humidity. Flooring with grooves on the bottom side allow for the planks to get more surface area which is the most important for glue down installation. After analyzing your particular situation, I feel like with a 6" plank it is best to opt for an engineered product with a decent wear layer (3 mm or more). If you can get quarter sawn that would be the best, but this will be a more costly option and limit your choices because not all manufactures produce their floors in quarter sawn. The main thing to monitor is moisture, try and keep things between 35-55% RH and you should be safe....See MoreHow to urine smell from sub floor with fake hardwood floors
Comments (2)Complain to the landlord. Tell them that you are able to smell the urine and are worried that this is a HEALTH HAZARD! Ask them to FIX THE ISSUE. Put these requests in writing. Do it 3-4 times. If you aren't getting anywhere, you can then contact your local Health Officer and ask them what THEY can do to find out if you are living with a HEALTH VIOLATION. Then go ahead and let the landlord know you have contacted the local Health Agency and will be expecting an inspector to visit you shortly. See what comes of that. As soon as you have a report that says the landlord must fix it BEFORE humans are allowed to live IN the suite you are out of the contract (no penalty to you because the landlord did NOT ensure the suite was ready for human habitation). Start with telling the landlord you have an issue and that you are worried it is a HEALTH HAZARD and that you are afraid the local Health Board may have to get involved. That should move things along QUICKLY. Landlords get FINED if they are in violation of local health codes. And yes, old urine can cause breathing issues and long-term pulmonary concerns. If you can smell it, you are breathing it in. If you have asthma, COPD or compromised immune system this could be a big deal for you....See MoreSleepers and sub-floor over corrupted concrete garage floor
Comments (7)The issue I'm seeing has to do with: 1. Thickness - it is a thin slab 2. Water damage AND high wear in a single area (from the photos shown) Technically it is *possible to jack out some of the concrete in the front (the wear through) dig a bit and then pour new concrete in that area. It isn't the ideal option, but it could do everything you are hoping for. You would have a seam between the two concretes but that is nothing if this is to remain a garage. The next question is: How much to demolish the ENTIRE thing and start over v. jacking out the concrete, removing the doors and purchasing new and adding insulation and heat? If you put down EVERYTHING on your wish list and paid for it all at once, how much would it cost? Now compare that to the demolition + rebuild of what would be your own purpose-built garage. How do the two numbers compare? 'Cause once you jack out the slab and remove the door you are inches away from demolition....See MoreUser
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoMissi Smith Design Co.
8 years agoMissi Smith Design Co.
8 years agoMissi Smith Design Co.
8 years agoMissi Smith Design Co.
8 years agoUser
8 years agoMissi Smith Design Co.
8 years agoUser
8 years agoUser
8 years ago
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