Hello: Hopefully someone can help me with this situation. I live in a 1 bed/1 bath condo in Los Angeles without a laundry hook up. I am in the process of remodeling my bathroom. When talking to various contractors, I spoke about wanting to hook up a washer/dryer combo in the bathroom area. They had this suggestion that I put the unit in a front hall closet that backed up to the shower area & then piped it from there. I was not really sold on the idea, but decided to go for it & do it right with getting a new Bosch Axxis washer & dryer set. My contractor does everything by the book & pulled a permit on the job (big mistake in LA for something like this remodel as I have been without a shower to use for almost a month!!). When the plumbing inspector came out, he said he would never approved of a washer & dryer in the unit cause I do not have 2 inch piping to support the washer. Here is my question to you all out there: 1. Is there anyone out there that has put this unit into a apartment/condo that had a 1 1/2 inch pipe to drain the water. 2. If so, have you had any problems. I know that the law requires a 2 inch pipe for a washer, but these are supposed to be for situations like mine since they don't use as much water. Bosch is NO help with all of this after calling a few times. They said they will never give out a minimum requirement due to being liable if something happens. If anyone has any suggestions on how to get around this, I would really appreciate it. I don't want to cancel the order. Everyone told me to just get the shower passed in the inspection, they repipe in the washer & dryer after the inspector leaves. Thanks in advance, Karen

Hi, I can't suggest the best unit for you, but even on a first floor laundry you have to think through vibration issues. I'm betting there are no shortage of people who can help you with a recommendation. Once you get your machines, you have to be really careful in leveling them. Not just a bubble level on the top, but by running the machine and feeling each foot for subtle vibrations and adjusting as needed. Many times a little tweak can make a big difference. There are anti vibration pads and the best do work well, but no system can fix an out of level machine. Finally (though this should be first) what are your floors like up there. Are they level? When you jump and down does the floor bounce, things on the wall or shelves rattle...? FYI, I have a Miele smaller unit and I would NOT recommend them for a shaky upper floor install. One last thing (I'm sorry for being so preachy), but you have to be serious about leak prevention, detection and shut off. Unless you want to come home to a water fall on your stair way some day! :-) I use FloodChek hoses and they are indestructible. I wouldn't use anything else. I also have a Burst Buster (auto shut off/leak detector). If a salesman or plumber blows you off on concerns about leaking or tells you the hoses they come with are fine, they are ignorant. They are low information washing machine people making stuff up. After fridge ice maker water lines, washing machine hose leaks are the leading cause for home owners claims. Ignore leak protection at your own risk.

I don't have personal experience with this. I can only give you the advice of a washer technician who frequents the Consumer Reports washer forum, though he is not affiliated with CR. For a second (or higher) floor, he recommends only two frontloaders: Samsung w/VRT and LG with the 'square' window. I own a Maytag Bravos washer, which is an HE toploader (no agitator). I have read many good reports from people who use Maytag Bravos on an upper floor.

1) Apparently a standpipe height of 18-42" will work (why else would the code require it, right?). I tend towards the 42", my thinking being that the higher height allows more 'head' to develop to push the water down the drain = less chance of overflow. 2) 2" standpipe, p-trap, and horizontal run to the 3" line is AOK, just maintain the 1/4" per foot drop and the washer will drain just fine. 3) Although your first location is in the house side wall (and the plumbing would require good detail in regard to proper insulating), I prefer this location as you could do a vertical drop to the p-trap and then the horizontal run - it sounds like less elbows and restrictions in the drain line.