Winterization Lawn Advice, Northern Virginia, Zone 7, Pics

8 years ago

last modified: 8 years ago

Hi guys, it is my first time doing lawn care myself this year. I overseeded on Sept 16th which turned out pretty well. I put down compost, but no starter fertilizer. It was a pretty big renovation as my previous lawn care provider burned half of my front yard with improper use of weed killer. Over 50% of my front lawn is new grass. On October 15 I fertilized with Lesco, 24-0-12 Slow Release. I understand the general advice for winterizing the lawn is when top growth stops and the grass is still green. I purchased a bag of urea 46-0-0 but I'm having a difficult time deciding on when to lay it down.

The weather has been a little unpredictable this past week and for the next 10 days. We were in the mid 60's with overnight temps of 40's, this weekend has a cold front with high temps in the 40's and overnight temps of 20's. Next week it will go back up to the 50's/60's and then back down to the 40's with overnight temps of 20's around November 30th.

Here's a few pics below I took this morning. I mowed it this past Monday at 3". There seems to be a some top growth.

For those that live in Zone 7, specifically Virginia, MD, DC metro area, have you guys already put down fertilizer? If not when do you plan on doing it? Is there any risk on putting down such a hefty amount of nitrogen on new grass? Additionally, I have been mowing at a height for the past several weeks at 3". Do you guys recommend a lower height? The next notch on my mower is set at 2.4". My grass is mostly tall fescue/kbg blend. Thank you very much for any input.

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (7)

beckyinrichmond
8 years ago
Looks beautiful! I'm in Richmond and I usually do the last fertilization in early to mid December. The ground doesn't seem to freeze until around January. With urea (46-0-0), if you put down 2 lb. per 1000 sq ft, that will give you just under 1 lb of nitrogen per K, which is what you're aiming for. Weigh it out. I use a bathroom scale: stand on it holding an empty bucket and then putting product in and weighing myself again, until I get it to the desired weight. Be sure to water it in after applying. You might put it down right before a rain and that will save you having to use sprinklers.
beckyinrichmond
8 years ago
I've been mowing at 2.5 inches. I like to do around 4 in the summer. I overseeded and moved it lower to encourage tillering. I think you could stay at 3 since that's what you've been doing and it certainly looks good. Some people like to mow it lower for the winter because of the snow mashing it down but we usually don't have long stretches of snow cover.
Related Discussions
Last date to apply winterizer-SE VA zone7
Q
Comments (2)
The temperatures where you live are still good for applying fertilizer to your lawn. You can apply fertilizer, technically until the lawn is dormant. However, since the Scotts Turf Builder Winterguard was applied to your lawn on Nov. 8th you will want to wait just a little while longer to apply your Lesco fertilizer because the Turf Builder Winterguard has a six week residual. So you have to wait about 4 more weeks before fertilizing again.
...See More
Hardy Citchangsha/citrandarin in zone 7a - Northern VA!
Q
Comments (59)
trying to grow pure Changsha in zone 7a would be a stretch, most likely it's not going to work out, but you may have a chance in zone 7b (especially the warmer half of zone 7b) if you live in the South. I have tasted the fruit of what I believe was a Morton citrange. The fruit entirely looked like a delicious orange, very inviting, but biting into it it had an awful flavor that I can only describe as putrid, and it made me want to immediately spit it out. I was told there was one other person who tasted it that found it to taste acceptably edible and could eat it. From what I have researched, I think many other Poncirus hybrids don't taste as bad as this Morton citrange, though they usually do tend to have a similar flavor. As for the US 852 hybrid, I have seen a video where a guy said he was even able to manage to enjoy eating them. Though I suspect he probably had more "adventurous" tastes that many people.
...See More
zone 4 to zone 8; or it's them winter blues again
Q
Comments (27)
Welcome to San Antonio. It's not always this hot. I've been to Minneapolis in January and can say I'd rather live here even with the summer heat. Find things to do inside for a few months and then spend the next eight months outside. You will get lots of help here on this site, so don't hesitate to ask. Our weather in San Antonio isn't as tropical as it seems in the summer, we can get hard freezes in the winter so you have to choose plants that can handle both heat and cold or move your plants around accordingly. The big difference is that the next day it will warm up again. A GW San Antonio plant exchange is planned for Oct. 10 and we would love to see you there. Look for more info as it gets closer. Also on October 17 is the Herb Market and plant sale at Aggie Park. Master Gardeners are there to answer questions. When you get a chance check out Rainbow Gardens for excellent advice on plants that work here. I tried to post the link below in the URL box so you could just open it, but GW rejected it. It's a list of garden events you might enjoy in San Antonio. http://gardeningvolunteers.org/phpweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_printable&PAGE_id=10&lay_quiet=1
...See More
I need lawn renovation help in Zone 7/8
Q
Comments (9)
That's odd, I have Cincinnati, OH listed as Zone 6a/6b (you're right on the border). Regardless, Ohio is completely compatible with bluegrass if that's what you want. You may or may not. Personally, I consider bluegrass to be the grass against which all others are measured--and found deeply wanting. But that's because I'm willing to put in the time and effort to optimize performance. And money, let's not forget the money. Bluegrass has absolutely terrible drought resistance, but phenomenal drought tolerance. Or, it wilts quickly and has to be watered, but survives drought very well by going dormant and simply waiting it out. It's the most demanding of the northern grasses in terms of feeding, and really objects if you give it less than 4 pounds of nitrogen per thousand square feet per year, delivered just the way it likes it (small amounts in late spring, large amounts in fall). In terms of disease and insect resistance, it's about average. However, planted as a single species (a monoculture), any disease it's susceptible to will run rampant. That's why we suggest multiple cultivars with different resistances to counter that. Planting a single cultivar (a monostand) is asking for trouble (but it can be done). Properly managed, it's an intense green with blue overtones (mine throws blue topaz highlights in sun that, regrettably, don't photograph at all well), a strong grower, and capable of filling in any holes without much additional encouragement. It feels like carpet underfoot. Improperly managed, it's a sickly yellow-green, grows weakly, and gets patchy. Just like any other neglected grass. Plantings are slower to develop than other species, and sprout far slower than most others, so you have to keep after the watering on the seed bed for far longer. If that's what you want, and you're willing to put in the effort, I'd suggest Midnight II, Prosperity, and Moonlight SLT cultivars for you if you want the darkest colors and excellent performance. Award and Bedazzled are two other suggestions, but the Bedazzled won't be quite as dark a green. If the idea is kind of daunting, fescue and ryegrasses are easier to manage but do require occasional overseeding in fall.
...See More
Vic Jung
Original Author
8 years ago
Hi Becky thanks for the input! I think I will wait till the temps stabilize and put down fertilizer around the same time you recommended. Nov 30th. Any chance you know the number setting for Scotts Broadcast spreader for the urea? I'll be honest, the 2lb per 1000 sq ft does not equate in my head and I'm sure I will mess up the amount. Thanks.
Vic Jung
Original Author
8 years ago
Anyone else in the DMV have some feedback? Appreciate any advice, thank you.
beckyinrichmond
8 years ago
Do not use a number setting to determine amount, measure out the amount needed (4 lb if you have 2 K, 6 lb if you have 3 K, etc.) and put it in the spreader. Then set your spreader at the lowest setting that still allows the product to come out and go back and forth in alternating directions (north/ south followed by east/west, for example) until you run out. Aim for 2-3 passes. This is a good way to apply any product
Vic Jung
Original Author
8 years ago
Thank you for that explanation, will definitely do that from now on
beckyinrichmond
8 years ago
Another thing you can do is this: after you weigh the proper amount for your yard, pour it into a container marked by volume (I use a quart size Chinese soup container) and take notes on how many quarts (or pints or whatever) is in the application. Then next year you can measure out by volume instead of having to weigh it again. You could keep a little notebook so you know what you put down when and what is the proper amount of particular products for your yard.

Winterization Lawn Advice, Northern Virginia, Zone 7, Pics

Comments (7)

beckyinrichmond

beckyinrichmond

Related Discussions

Vic Jung
Original Author

Vic Jung
Original Author

beckyinrichmond

Vic Jung
Original Author

beckyinrichmond

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

Winterization Lawn Advice, Northern Virginia, Zone 7, Pics

Comments (7)

beckyinrichmond

beckyinrichmond

Related Discussions

Vic JungOriginal Author

Vic JungOriginal Author

beckyinrichmond

Vic JungOriginal Author

beckyinrichmond

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

Vic Jung
Original Author

Vic Jung
Original Author

Vic Jung
Original Author