Beautiful floor! I don't think I've ever seen maple in that color. Are the stair noses are prefinished to match? You'd just use the floor boards on the stair, and the nosing to finish? That sounds pretty straight forward to me and you wouldn't have to worry about either the stain or wear layer; so long as the nosing is wide enough that you can attach it to the horizontal of the stair, not hang it off the front of the vertical surface [which can be done, but is more difficult]. Staining to match is also doable, especially if you are matching a wood with a lot of natural variation. With stair treads, you have a lot of unseen wood on the backs to practice on. A good paint center can help, but since the finish is semi-transparent the underlying wood plays a big role and they can't do it as accurately as they can match a paint. I've intermixed different colors from the same stain families for years. You just need to keep accurate records of what each mix is, and use a little common sense-- don't mix a 'regular' stain with one that has poly added, and read the label to make sure there are no restictions-- Minwax Red Mahogany will only accept certain top coats, for instance, so its a poor choice as part of your mix. But using the factory finish stuff will save you all that hassle.

Landlord, I'll chime in on your apartments. I don't know anything about Terrazo, but we ripped out the carpet in our apartments and put in hardwoods in the living room areas and upstairs hallways. We left carpet in the bedrooms for sound, and on the stairs for sound and safety. We also were tired of having to recarpet every couple of years, as people absolutely destroyed decent carpet. We put in prefinished hardwoods ourselves (DH has a handyman business), and I love how easy it is to clean up. We had some damage to one area, but he just pulled out an area of boards and replaced them. They are no longer as sparkly as when they were new, but hey, it's an apartment. A bit costly up front, but the cost is more than recovered by the savings of a couple of recarpeting jobs. As an added bonus, the hardwoods in the upstairs hallway makes the carpeted areas totally separate. If one room needs to be replaced, we can do that with something that matches, without having to replace all of the carpet. This was a suggestion from our carpet installer.

So let's talk the about the difference between an engineered hardwood and a vinyl plank. And there are more than just the difference between the two flooring options. There are many differences within each type of flooring. For example: engineered hardwood flooring can come in different thickness overall and vinyl planks can come in different plank styles (glue down, WPC and SPC). Let's break this down for you guys a little further. Engineered hardwood is an incredible option for an authentic with longevity in mind. Typically is worth less than it's hardwood counterpart (hardwood) but in some instances, depending on the wood species, a high end engineered hardwood veneer could be worth more than a low grade hardwood such as your North American (domestic) species. Engineered hardwood is more often on the 7/16" side of thickness and that is your more price friendly thickness. You can special order a thicker 3/4" board, but that will come at a heftier price because it's added layers. The added layers create a more stable plank that expands and contracts at a lower rate than it's 7/16" counterpart. Engineered hardwoods always should and for the most part come prefinished with an aluminum oxide coat. This very coat is your barrier against everyday beatings from walking traffic and dropped items. This coat is very tough but no floor or finish is indestructible. You will have dents and scratches pop up over the years. Depending on the company, you can buy "refinish kits". Although, technically you cannot refinish aluminum oxide, the kits just help you hide the scratches until you decide to do a professional refinish to your floor. Lastly, let's talk about refinishing your hardwood floor. Please have a professional do it! And it is very expensive to do this job. Depending on your floor size it can cost well over $3,000 USD. At this rate, you are in the market for a high level LVP. Which brings me into the luxury vinyl plank spectrum. As you all are aware, LVP's are dominating the flooring market and they should be. They do a very, VERY good job at imitating a hardwood or stone surface and multiply the longevity all the while. Vinyl has come a long way in the last couple of decades let alone the last few years as far as planks are concerned. There are plenty of options and so, so many different brands all wanting you business. Luxury vinyl planks can be divided into two different categories in the market right now: glue down or floating. The first generation of vinyl planks are your glue downs. They are still very popular and serve as one of the friendliest DIY repair floors. You simply heat the old damaged plank, peel it and put a new one down. The floating aspect of planks gets a little more complicated as you can have a WPC (wood polymer composite), SPC (stone polymer composite) or a loose lay style. And you can look those up to see the complete difference in each to see what's your most needed. I'll lightly go over each to explain what they are. While all three styles are virtually waterproof, you really can't go wrong with any and will have a good product in each one. WPC's are a click based plank which does not require an underlayment, hence being labeled a "floating" floor. The foaming agent in the core of the plank helps with sound absorption and makes the plank a little more friendly to stand on. It's a thicker overall plank and you should think about how the trims will be affected. SPC's are a click based plank which also does not require an underlayment which helps reduce the installation cost. The core is limestone based and makes it very rigid and tough. It's extremely dent resistant but for the most part is lower in wear layer for some reason. You can however find plenty of SPC's with a higher wear layer, nearing 28-30 mil, but it will cost you more because you will have a high dent and scratch resistance. And finally you have your loose lay planks which are the ultimate form (as of now) in easy maintenance and installation. They do not require an underlayment, do not use a click system and don't need any adhesive (although some installers recommend gluing the perimeter). They have a friction backing which let you lay the plank adhesive free without any movement on its end. The plank itself is waterproof and pretty dent resistant. While engineered hardwood does cost more and is less maintenance friendly, it does add value to your home with the hardwood veneer. The ability to refinish gives you a long floor life but the cost of a refinish is a setback in itself. Luxury vinyl planks are a low cost and long lasting floor option but adds little to no value to your home. The endless options of styles and colors gives you endless customization to your home at a far less price. Either option can last a while but at this time vinyl planks are a better option for any household with multiple members, both human and furry alike. I hope this little bit of information helps in the short and long run. Just a flooring dude.

It's not a plywood tread, if what you show in the picture is your tread. Will you be installing the bamboo on the hallway at top? If so, and the rise of the steps will be the same as the rise of the final tread and the top hallway landing, then just cutting the nosing off each southern yellow pine tread would work. You cannot take the existing treads out; they are let into the stringer and joined at the tread and riser juncture by nails from underneath. You could possibly take out the treads and put in new, but that would require further demolition and the removal of what you call your banister trim to allow for that. And, we haven't a clue how the opposite side is done. Also, doing that, and installing the bamboo on the top hallway, could screw up the rise at that top step. Check your measurements to see how your plan will affect the rise. And, think how you're going to scribe each tread to fit. Lots of ways to do that...low tech simple pattern making or high tech tread scribing tools.