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Top-mount or under-mount utility sink in laundry room?

8 years ago

I know this seems like a petty question, but I have it in my head that under-mount sinks are the way to go as far as look. However, most of the utility sinks I'm seeing are top mount. Is there a preference for utility sinks in a laundry room? Thanks.

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Comments (3)

poppy214
8 years ago
What sort of jobs do you do in a utility sink, e.g. clean paint brushes, wash the dog, rinse off dirt from outside? My laundry sink does that sort of job as well as clean up wet disasters big and small. The operative word is wet and dirty. With an under-mount sink, I would be afraid of the possibility of hidden mold forming even if I were vigilant about disinfecting with bleach. Isn't there at least one side of the sink you won't see easily when scrubbing? I solved the problem with a free-standing utility sink.
elcamino83
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
My new sink/countertop is being installed Nov. 6, and I chose a top mount sink composite sink that won't scratch or discolor; my current acrylic disaster has not worn well. The top mount will also not have the caulk issues my under mount kitchen sink has. It is a laundry room, so for me, function over form.
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Thanks Jules8 for your feedback. I'm not too picky about spotting. This will be a bathroom used daily. I am glad to hear that there isn't splashing. I will be using a single hole Hansgrohe faucet. Thanks for the info about the slope, and as you've indicated it seems too shallow. I have a limited space for the sink in my vanity and this one provides a lot of interior space within the confines of my cabinet. If I decide to get another sink I will have to call the cabinet maker to double check the tolerance I have. The look of this sink is really nice though and I probably will stay with it.
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I dont think you need quite that much room. The distance needed from wall to faucet will likely be determined by the faucet. The specs should include clearance needed, but require very little space depending on how the handle moves. Most tile for a backsplash is about 1/4" thick, so give yourself a little extra for grout, but still 1/2" should do. Then the width for the faucet itself prolly is 1.5-2", but I have just about 1-1.25" between the faucet and the sink edge. The amount of granite needed in the front may depend on your granite installer. I was strongly advised to have 4" minimum, but have heard others say they went with 3". I guess this is part of the reason some people do bump outs!
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You could do a small vessel sink, which will require cutting a hole in the top and gutting the interior for the plumbing. The lack of size on this will force any faucet to likely need to be wall mounted, which is expensive, or offset to one corner. You will also have issues with water damaging the piece as vessel sinks do have more splashout and hand run off on the counter surface. Installing a stone slab on top would help with that. Or, you could place a stone slab on the top, after cutting away most of that top in order to allow a very small under-mount sink to be attached to the stone only. The piece is somewhat low for a undermounted sink. You could do a top mount sink on the existing surface, but that is an open invitation to almost immediate water damage. Or, again, you could cut out the top and place a stone slab on it for a top mounted sink. If you value the piece, I would use it elsewhere. For a powder room situation, I personally like as much counter space as can be squeezed out of a powder room.
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Back those brackets out, drop the sink, scrape the silicone off the flange (if they used any) and the bottom of the top. Secure a Hercules Universal Sink Harness (Braxton Bragg) or a couple of Sink Straps from Regent Stone Products to the cabinet sides. Silicone the sink flange, run a pipe clamp through a hole in a 2x4 that spans the top and through the drain, snug the sink, and check the reveals. Tighten the HUSH/Straps, pull the clamp, clean up the silicone and your sink is mounted permanently and professionally. Like this, please. While the sink is out, re-drill the hole for the dishwasher drain to the top of the cabinet, please. It's much too low now. I am not a fan of sink clips, manufacturer supplied/specified or not. I see this constantly: Since they take up so much room, they make the front top rail fat. To keep the front rail skinny, fabricators just eliminate the clips from where they're the most needed. Skinny as you please with a strap.
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Erica L
Original Author
8 years ago
Perfect. That's the info I needed. This will basically just be used to fill buckets for cleaning, washing out stains, rinsing off clay from baseball/softball items etc. Top mount is cheaper so that works in my favor!

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