Where was the test done? It'd probably be best to re-test through Logan Labs or UMass (Logan preferable) as the pH clearly needs adjusting...but the Ca/Mg balances aren't listed so we don't know how to do that properly.

Bermuda isn't all that picky about what kind of fertilizer or soil you use as long as you're mowing often enough at the right height & keeping the thatch layer at an appropriate level. For Bermuda, an appropriate level of dead thatchy material isn't very much, just enough to keep the worms happy. If morpheus says it's too late for organics, start them in the spring & you'll get a lot less clippings to dispose of compared to synthetics. Good luck & come back often!

Thanks for your reply. Test was done by NCSU Agriculture Extension services below image shows the other results.

Please pardon my dumb questions. I am quite new to this field and trying to learn it from experts. I appreciate your help.

1) Is it too late to apply pre-emergent herbicide? Can I buy one from Lowes or HD? ( I read in one of your posts that you recommend dimension or barricade? What are the commercial brands that make them?)

2) Is it a good time to seed numerous empty patches I have in my lawn?

Regards,

Bob

Hi reeljake,

Thank you for your reply.

My lawn is infested with many weeds this summer mostly because of my negligence. This lawn is 10 years old and is slowly getting deteriorated year after year with new empty patches developing every year.

I never got my soil tested or applied pre-emergent herbicide.

I am trying to correct that now by learning the cycle to apply herbicide, fertilizer, lime etc.

Thanks,

Bob

With Bermuda, it's not always a matter of dropping more products, but if you've been neglecting it then you're likely short on nutrition. Best time for a pre emergent was yesterday, so get on that. HD or Lowe's will probably have only the Scott's brand. In Houston, I can get barricade in "nitro phosphate" brand & dimension is labeled under the "hi-yield" brand. No idea what brands are available up there, but ask at a real garden center & they'll point you in the right direction. If you've been neglecting, I would expect some thatched spots, too. When you part grass blades, does it look like this or do you see a layer of woven hay under there?

I'd get a test through Logan; those results above are a little questionable.

Copper at that level would be fatal to almost anything, so I suspect that the test simply isn't that accurate. Zinc at that level would cause major problems. Manganese like that is possible, but unlikely in most soils.

Those results render even those I could believe far less likely to be accurate.

Maybe that's why you're losing whole sections of grass? Any chance your soil was contaminated somehow in the past?

Thank you for your comments. I will take some pictures and post them so you get a better idea. My home was built on an old farm land and I am not sure it would have been contaminated unless it gets contaminated by the building materials the builder used.

Hi mkbobba. I live in Holly Springs so I can tell you a little bit about brands and where to get them.

You're extremely close on being late for pre-emergents. October has been fairly warm with the exception of the last couple of days so that plays in your favor. You really need to put it down now. I have used both dimension and stonewall with similar results. I use Lesco products and they sell a 0-0-7 dimension at home depot and at John Deere Landscapes. JDL also sells stonewall if you want to go that route. There is a JDL off of 64 like you're going to Jordan Lake. It's about 10 minutes from the Beever Creek shopping center. That is also where I get my fertilizer. They'll recommend a 24-0-11 with iron which I have never tried so I don't know how well it works. I used a 32-0-8 with iron and had GREAT success this year.

To answer some of your questions, it is too late to fertilize. You'll want to put down a pre-emergent but nothing with nitrogen in it. That is the first number on a bag of fertilizer. You could probably put down an organic if you like. You could use milorganite or put down alfalfa pellets or cracked corn. I like to use one of the latter 2 at this time of year and again in the spring when the grass is about to come out of dormancy.

I wouldn't overseed. Once your bermuda gets growing, it will fill in. Don't waste your time.

I'm not a soil expert so I couldn't tell you anything about what sort of lime to apply. I've never applied it and I've never taken a soil test.

Below are some pictures of my yard from this summer. Let me know if you have any questions about where to get what.

Good looking yard!

Hi sherm1082,

Thank you for the detailed reply and pointers to JDL.

I will apply the pre-emergent now and use one of the fertilizers you recommended.

I will get another soil test done (from Logan labs this time, thanks morph!) in spring and learn more about organic fertilizing.

This is a great forum and I thank you all for being very helpful.

Thanks,

Bob

This is a great forum and I thank you all for being very helpful.

Thanks,

Bob

Good pictures, mk. That looks like dry bermuda and unfertilized bermuda. Here's the general bermuda care guide as summarized by me from many sources

Weekly - mulch mow at the mower's lowest setting, 2x to 3x depending on how fast the grass is growing. In the spring it will be 3x for sure.

Monthly - fertilize with a high N low P and K fertilizer. Make at least one of these monthly apps an organic fertilizer like soybean meal, alfalfa pellets, or corn meal.

Did I miss anything? That's about it except for watering. Water deeply and infrequently. Deeply means 1 inch all at one time. Infrequently means once per week with temps in the 90s, once every 2 weeks with temps in the 80s, once every 3 weeks with temps in the 70s, and once a month the rest of the year. I just dropped down to once every 2 weeks in my parts of Texas.

Don't get excited about planting winter grass into the bermuda. That's a common mistake. It's a mistake because it causes a long delay in the spring for the bermuda to rebound from winter dormancy.

Another thing people like to do with bermuda is topdress with sand every year. Just don't do it. If you have healthy soil, which you will with this plan, you don't need to do anything but water and fertilize.

Thank you.

Bermuda likes to get its butt kicked pretty regularly, so poke some holes or make some slices in those bare spots, water & watch it fill in like an algae bloom. You also cut a little high IMO & some of those shady spots will just do better as shade gardens. Pre emergent every 4 months & as much organic fertilizer as you can put down, anytime you like. Good luck!