Need Help planting in North Facing Front Yard

8 years ago

We live in Northern California in Contra Costa County. I am looking for something to plant under our two large front windows in the front of our house. The area faces North. There used to be a green hedge that we took out years ago and replaced with rose bushes. What I didn't realize was that this area only gets sunlight in the afternoon. In the morning, this area is completely shaded. The roses rarely bloom and I will need to transplant. What other options would you all recommend? I would like something that flowers and is full.. Is that even possible? Someone recommended Hydrangea bushes..? Your thoughts? I'll try to post a photo if possible.

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Comments (9)

gabbygannon
Original Author
8 years ago
I believe the zone I live in is considered 9b
hoovb zone 9 sunset 23
8 years ago
Hydrangeas are best on the east side of the house, with morning sun and afternoon shade.

How much afternoon sun does the area get? North facing would imply very little sun at all.
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It may seem tedious, hard, and unnecessary to move these plants, although most gardeners enjoy re-arranging to improve their garden's function and appearance. Most hate trying to move or rip out the mistake of previous owners, mistakes which sometimes then reveal damage. Because these plants are still manageable, this situation can be set right. Once done, you will be again at the point of considering next steps toward the goal of eventually having very little upkeep to handle. You will have lost nothing and gained several benefits: Protection of your home. Healthier plants. Better looking in terms of appropriate rather than crowded spacing. You will still have: Same plants. Screening of windows. And there are psychological and physical benefits: Lowered anxiety about whether the paint job and wood will deteriorate due to those pieris. Spring exercise planting your beautiful shrubs. Self-esteem up because you've gained knowledge and improved something wisely. Yes, you calculated the spacing, but forgot to calculate appropriate distance from building. Also, a shrub doesn't reach a certain number and then say to itself, "I'm 5 feet tall and wide now. I better stop or the shrub police will come and get me." Shrubs are living and, unlike humans, continue to gain height and width throughout their lives. I think the size ranges are estimated for 5 to 10 years?, but the shrubs don't know that and they will keep growing. What's to lose here? Re-planting 3 shrubs? Ah, c'mon! If I lived closer, I'd come by and help! Wellspring
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Thanks for the replies, everyone. I should have included a bit of back information that would better give orientation about my overall objectives. This first year or two, my main objective is to define the borders of the porch for my two large dogs. Until now, we had a pad and grass up to the pad (pad is the same pre- and post- porch construction) and they could exit the pad anywhere. Now, I want them to get used to exiting the pad onto the sidewalk in the center, because elsewhere will now be beds (and mud and mess and plants to be stomped). That's why I've bombed the front with the cinnamon ferns, to make a sort of visual railing while the dogs re-learn their exit, and while the beds age in with better soil and I get some other plants going (hostas, etc.). For the first year or two. It will be no problem to move the ferns around the corner when that time comes. I've always wanted a mass of ferns on this eastern facing side: My second objective is to create a streamlined mow line. The grass is maintained with a 60 inch deck mower so whatever bed edge I develop needs to allow the mower to move along it easily (I guess rather than undulating what I was trying to get to was smooth curves rather than corners, for mowing purposes). Third objective is LEAST maintenance from a hand weeding perspective. I know it won't be zero, but I'd like to have it controllable without being consuming. Fourth objective is "pretty." I'm not bothered with "curb appeal" in general as the only viewers are anyone coming up the driveway; this is not seen from the street. Eventually, I would like to grow and develop in a pretty foundation border. I got the ferns cheap and they will help my first objective. As I can, I will add more plants and soil amendments, so that is what I'm asking for - where do I EVENTUALLY want to go with this, etc. I appreciate all your inputs! Please add as you have thoughts!
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gabbygannon
Original Author
8 years ago
I just used a compass and saw that the area is actually NW. Depending on the time of year, it gets late afternoon sunlight.. In the summer it gets the most sun--usually starting at around 3PM. Our summer is hot and the sun in the afternoon fries my rose blooms. Fall, Winter, Spring is less.sunlight.. It's a hard area to plant because of the shade .. I'm not sure what to do....
hoovb zone 9 sunset 23
8 years ago
Tough, standard landscaping shrubs that can take either full sun or full shade would be best. You can add visual interest via foliage texture (and that lasts year round) and put the color of flowers elsewhere. Boxwood, Nandina 'Firepower' (which has a lot of foliage color--it reds up in cooler months--and is reliably short enough to live below windows) come immediately to mind, but I'm sure there will be a lot more suggestions. Most satisfying results come from working with conditions in each location of the garden, not against them.
lgteacher
8 years ago
You have a local Master Gardener group. They could be of help.

Contra Costa Master Gardeners
User
8 years ago
When our temps. are up to 100 F. my roses fry, shaded ones also. .If yours do not do well in their new home, ask for heat loving ones on the rose forum.

Hydrangea ought ought to be good. When established they may require yearly prune after flowering to keep them from blocking the windows. Here are a few ideas of, hopefully, short shrubs.

compact shrubs

A neighbor inherited a lovely line of Xylosmas on her north facing wall that thrived. Too tall for her. They're gone :-( Moral: Choose carefully..
calistoga_al ca 15 usda 9
8 years ago
We also have a north facing front with little sun, almost none in the winter. We have some Hydrangea, but it leans out for the sun so is not satisfactory for the site. Camellias have done really well but are difficult to keep small enough. Helleborous has done very well with no problems. Al
gabbygannon
Original Author
8 years ago
Here is a photo of the area..excuse the skeleton graveyard.. Halloween is near!

You can see how sad the roses look... I would love for the new plant to grow as tall as the window sill..... Its about 3-4 feet or so..
gabbygannon
Original Author
8 years ago
Not sure why my photos are not uploading... grrr... I'm going to try again.

Need Help planting in North Facing Front Yard

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gabbygannon
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hoovb zone 9 sunset 23

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Need Help planting in North Facing Front Yard

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gabbygannonOriginal Author

hoovb zone 9 sunset 23

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gabbygannonOriginal Author

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lgteacher

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