too little sun for UC Verde, or other buff? zone 22
Need2SeeGreen 10 (SoCal)
5 months ago
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Need2SeeGreen 10 (SoCal)
5 months agoRelated Discussions
Baronne Prevost + Rose de Rescht + other picks - help / feedback?
Comments (3)These observations are made in coastal Camarillo -- where we have less fog than we used to. 1. Baronne Prevost has always grown vigorously and bloomed well (resting a little during the hottest weather). It has been disease-resistant, only rusting a little on old leaves in late Fall. 2. Reve d'Or -- A good grower, and great repeat bloomer, with NO disease issues here. In my garden, it has no flaws. 3. Mutabilis -- NO disease. Continuous-bloom. A beautiful, graceful, BIG rose. Give it space, and it will reward you well. 4. Mons. Tillier -- Disease-free. Almost continuous-blooming. A lovely big rose that needs little attention. Blooms are lovely, but will turn to potpourri in Santa Ana windstorms. 5. Mme. Berkeley -- This is a BIG Tea Rose, well-clothed in perfect foliage, and never completely out of bloom. A "Go-To" rose for Thanksgiving and Christmas Bouquets. Bloom color shifts with the weather, but at its best is French Vanilla and Strawberries. Bloom size shrinks noticeably in very hot weather, but it goes right on blooming. 6. Maman Cochet -- ALL of the Cochets are disease-free here. Great repeat bloomers. Blooms are badly affected by cold, dank weather, and might not open. But it is lovely most of the time. I actually like Niles Cochet best, but they're all good. 7. Mrs. Dudley Cross -- Mildewed continuously here, and is long gone. Marie van Houtte is better here, IMHO. 8. Golden Celebration -- In very rare hot-humid spells, it can blackspot. It is free of other diseases. Resented hard pruning here, and does best for us with only a complete winter deadheading, and foliage removed. Blooms are exquisite. This is a cropper. Big flush. Deadhead. Another big flush, all through the year. 9. Mary Rose -- Had good disease-resistance, but that's when we sprayed. Good bloomer. Eventually removed because it became boring. 10. Sharifa Asma -- Mildewed a little, most of the time. Blooms were lovely, fragrance delightful, but the constant low-level mildew was too annoying. Long gone. 11. Graham Thomas -- If you want it to bloom, plan to pull the canes out horizontally. It grew 12-14-ft. canes, and mildewed. Only bloomed at the top, hence the suggestion to train it horizontally. 12. Altissimo -- at a home in La Conchita, this bloomed like an explosion of color, and covered much of the two-story front. Good disease-resistance. Beautiful color. 13. Sally Holmes -- Disease-free. Best bloom in the spring, when it explodes with color. Want mine? It's huge, and probably Virus-free. I need the space! 14. Secret -- Compact, upright habit. Excellent repeat. Terrific disease-resistance. Good Fragrance. Every plant I ever saw (including my three, from three different growers) was virused to the max. Pity. 15. Cornelia -- wonderful as a shrub or low-climber. Disease free. Biggest bloom in the spring, but it will repeat respectably in Fall, scattering bloom through winter 16. Mrs. R.M. Finch -- Mildewed uncontrollably. Gone. 17. Leonie Lamesch -- A lovely bloom, doesn't make sprays. Gorgeous color, delightful fragrance. Completely disease-free here. A stingy bloomer for us. 18. Lamarque -- Not in my garden, but a virused plant blooms wonderfully at the Adolfo Camarillo Ranch. Disease free. In maturity, it repeats well. 19. Grandmother's Hat -- My number-one recommendation in consideration of disease-resistance, graceful habit, adaptability, and generosity of bloom. We must have a dozen of it here. DH keeps planting it. If I could have but one rose, it would be this one. Jeri Jennings Coastal Ventura County, Camarillo...See MoreThe Grand View - RMG
Comments (32)This thread began as a means to discuss the issue of Sunset zones. The secondary motive was for me to try to explore the notion that elevation is a factor to RMG but not the only factor. Over the course of looking at climate data, I discovered that annual precipitation and the time of its occurrence may be a defining feature for the RMG region. Aridity cannot be the only determinate or wed all be over in the Southwest Gardening forum. Previous and somewhat naively, I had thought that these evergreen mountains here and there indicated that there were areas with rather high rainfall amounts - what hadn't quite sunk in was that while that is true, these areas were all at elevations where gardening becomes impossible. I began wondering if a particular native plant species was representative of the broad RMG region. I'm no expert on native plants so this was a fun exercise even if it doesn't appear to be absolutely successful (perhaps, an impossibility). It seemed to me that the Arrowleaf Balsamroot was most broadly representative. I'm hoping that other gardeners are giving this some thought and will comment. By way of encouragement, my question now is - what the heck is this plant whose image is used here on GardenWeb to represent Rocky Mountain Gardening: Steve...See MoreSS Support - Mon. 7/3 thru Sun. 7/9
Comments (34)QOD: Youngest DD went to a friend's house to spend the night. 2nd youngest DD had a summer slumber party here-I don't know why they call it that; no one sleeps and she has a party to go to today! 15 y.o DD was out last night with 18 y.o. BF - he now has his own apartment whcih she likes to visit. She starts pilot ground school today 8-6 for the next few Saturdays and Sundays. Oldest DD got a job running projectors at the local movie house, so she was working the last couple nights till 3 a.m. w/ the "Pirates" openings? I haven't yet. Me, I'm walking dogs, watering lawns, studying philosophy, ethics, and moral obligations, topped off with a load of meteorology and LOTS of laundry and weeding! I am going to spend an hour in my office as well--cleaning! DH is taking the bar study course 24/7, so things are running smoothly around here, really. GOOD LUCK, ERICA!!! Pictures, please! You are our "SS Daily Queen" mascot EVERY DAY! Zig~ Hope the funeral was okay for you. Those things are tough, but bring people together---and that's a good thing. Dee- Good to hear you're continuing the walking, but sorry about the pain of all. Syill thinking of your co-worker and her DH... Donna~ Did you get to go out to dinner? Raeanne: The questions on the body shape quiz didn't give many options for answers. I was an hourglass too, but have never thought of myself this way---I really think I have a boy's shape, sort of squarish w/ large shoulders. I was wondering how much stock to put in that quiz. Work-outs with enough weight to cause a fair amount of resistance is a great way to prevent bone disease and just plain be healthier---so I'm foregoing the femmy looks for that. Besides, as I get older, I sort of want to look like I can kick some @ss---lol!!! As well, I have really enjoyed increasing the weight at the gym from time to time--POWER! John-cats yet? Besh-CONGRATS on the 2.6 at WW Friday!!!!!!!!! I read about you unpacking your canvas bags and had to laugh---I have the same deal after an outting! Sounds like your weekend is FULLLLLLLLL! Be good! Milkdud~ What kind of swimming do you do? I've been hitting the pool for low key water walking twice a week. It's just a nice way for me to mellow out really. Maddie! Let us know how the Tedster's concert is. We are going to see Kenny Loggins in August at Saint Michelle Winery--1/2 hour from our house--so beautiful out there. Good luck on Monday's interview---I didn't catch what kind of business you're interviewing for... NHSuzanne~ You are so lucky to live where you do. Haven't heard you talking about DH and his sons lately...how's that going? Marci~ Cookie Lady! Good luck--taste and walk, taste and walk! It's sunny here---RARE, so I better finish my indoor stuff so I can get outdoors! Make this weekend a good one! Has anyone seen "The Inconvenient Truth?" (The Al Gore movie) and Has anyone seen "Pirates of the Carribean?" I haven't seen either but want to....See MoreDrought Lawn Ideas
Comments (35)This soil has a split personality, indicative that soil was brought in for either the front or the back. They have to be treated differently this time, but next year a soil test can combine both. EC 15/11: The back is slightly over-enhanced by the excess calcium, the front is a more accurate answer. I'm treating both as EC of 11 or so, or a silty sand (sandy loam, formally). The soil holds decent resources, but changes fairly easily as well. Around 11 is a good place to be. pH 6.7/6.4: I never use this directly. Although both look OK, both have shortages that have to be addressed. I'm likely to throw off the pH a little out back, but there's not much we can do about that. It won't have any impact on lawn quality, shrubs, or most fruit trees. Blueberries and the like are absolutely not going to be growable here, however, nor any other plant that demand strongly acid soils. OM 2.9/1.4%: Fair in the back, poor in the front. Always mulch mow your lawn, mow in all fall leaves, and consider feeding organically. I have no set percentage in mind, other than "above 4%." Higher OM buffers against some resource shortages, helps retain water, and increases soil health. Sulfur 42/52: Pretty high, indicating that there's a fair clip of gypsum in your soil. While there's not as much margin for playing as I like, I can work with it. Phosphorus around 200: On the nose, although there's very little margin for error here. I actually recommended the use of starter fertilizer once, when you plant your lawn in August. Just get the cheapest. That'll give you a boost for the new lawn and a little margin against use and leaching. Fruit trees will require fairly good amounts of P. If you put in flower gardens, you'll want to feed with starter monthly for a year as these levels are too low for good flowering. Calcium 77%/66%: A little high in the back, but not a problem. While just fine in the front, the base amounts are lower and I'd like to enhance this just a little bit. We use Encap, Mag-I-Cal, or Pennington Fast Lime to do this (calcium carbonate limes) as not much is required, they work quickly, and they don't add any other elements that I don't want (or am adding separately). Magnesium 8.7%/15.5%: A bit low in the back, a bit high in the front (but workable in the back). We use Epsom salt from the local drugstore (First Aid or bath sections) to raise this. Potassium 3.3%-ish: A hair trim in both the front and the back. Potassium sulfate (sulfate of potash) is what we use to raise this, and can usually be ordered at many garden shops or landscape stores. You can get it online, but it's a bit pricey there. Sodium 1.9%/1.6%: Still OK, but I wouldn't want this to go much higher than it is. For now, however, we don't need to do anything about it as sodium levels are fine. When watering, water deeply to expel sodium below the root layer. Minor Elements: Boron is short across the board (more below). Copper is a bit low in the front, but not so low that it's a real issue and we can ignore it this year. Iron's good, but you can use Milorganite to enhance color if you want. Manganese is good, but for fruit trees it may require a bit of a kick, I need more info on what you're going to plant. Boron 0.55/0.35: A little low in the back, very low in the front. 0.70 is our target here, but we need to be a bit cautious. Since we're dealing with a blank slate, I've been a little more aggressive with boron than I would normally be. We use Milorganite as a carrier and 20 Mule Team Borax as the boron source. In a wheelbarrow or the like, dump the Milo. Spraying very, very lightly with water (I use a spray bottle like the kind people use to damp their clothes when they iron) will help the boron stick. Add the recommended amount of 20 Mule Team Borax and stir, spraying occasionally to get the stuff to stick to the Milo. Then apply over the recommended area. So if going for bag rate Milorganite (1 bag per 2,500 square feet), you'd add 12 tablespoons of 20 Mule Team Borax. Recommendations: Before August 1: Apply 5 tablespoons per thousand square feet of 20 Mule Team Borax. Mid-August around lawn planting: Apply starter fertilizer at bag rate. September 15: Apply 3 pounds of potassium sulfate per thousand square feet across the entire property. October 1: Apply 4 pounds per thousand square feet of Encap, Mag-I-Cal, or Pennington Fast Lime to the front only. Apply 3 pounds of Epsom salt per thousand square feet to the back only....See Moredchall_san_antonio
5 months agoNeed2SeeGreen 10 (SoCal)
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