when to plant bermuda sod grass in Upstate South Carolina
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My experiences with Sprigging Bermuda grass (stolonizing)
Comments (7)Hi dchall_san_antonio, thanks for the follow-up post. You are spot on with regards to the unevenness of sod. I did my front yard last season and was instantly dissatisfied with the results with regard to the undulations. So I had to spend more time and more effort to get a result that I wanted from the outset. Hence my obsession was born with having a perfectly level yard. I searched the internet determined to get a better result. I read about sprigging, but found almost zero info on how the regular Joe could do it at home. I took bits of info from golf green construction, sport fields, bowling greens and then applied this to what would work at home for me using everyday tools and non-specialized products. The cost was also significantly less than buying sod for the entire project which is quite expensive in Australia (around A$9.00m2) I will try by best to answer the questions that you have put forth; My patio area faces roughly east, so the sun passes directly over the yard in summer. In winter it moves to the north (the left hand side looking from patio). Long shadows do cast to the south, however more so in winter as the sun is lower in sky. I cultivated the soil using a rotary hoe or a gas powered tiller to till the soil to a depth of around 6 inches. I then made a contraption of 4 x 6 foot pieces of timber set parallel with 4 x braces running perpendicular to the long pieces. I attached a rope to this and then spent the next few days dragging this contraption back and forth, round and round, up and down until it was as level as I could make it. I let it settle for about 2 weeks, then spent another weekend with my new wooden friend. I got the idea from this video; Leveling yard After this I brought in around 2 cubic meters of builders sand for final grade. I built a smaller version of the wood , this time using aluminum and a handle that you use like a rake to move the soil around. I then watered this to the point of runoff and let it dry. I used the lawn level again to level out any minor undulations and watered it again. Finally I used a long piece of timber to check for grade and undulations. At this point I was satisfied. The high tech tools used to cut up the sod was a pair of garden shears and a pair of HD sissors! No wonder my hands were dead after about 6 hours. I put the cut sprigs into a big container of water for about an hour, then put them in a old wet sheet in the shade until I was ready to broadcast them. I made sure I had enough to cover one irrigation zone before I spread them such that i could irrigate immediately after planting. Once I realised that this method was not going to work I borrowed a leaf shredder and put smaller pieces of sod through the hopper. At first I was concerned that I cut them too small and they would not root, but they did take, however at a slower rate than compared with the larger pieces. I did this in October, which is mid-spring here. Funnily enough we had a really mild spring which didn't really help with the grow-in. When temps got above 25C you could literally watch it grow! This is not common practise for establishing home lawns in Australia. Some turf suppliers do offer what they call 'shredded turf' but these companies are not in my state. The methods these companies advocate could not be translated the method I used. Next time I would try and actually source the sprigs, rather than cutting up sod. It is so time consuming and very messy. Other than that I am really happy with how it has come up. I said to my wifey that if I ever plant another lawn I will be stolonizing it. The real reason I wanted to spend the time doing this post is purely for the fact that I have learned so much from this forum (even as a lurker) and I wanted to take the time and give something back to other forum members who have taken the time with their experiences. In particular David's thread which I used to level my front yard. Here are some pics of that project if anyone is interested; Front This is disc roller below; PS I will work on my photography skills This post was edited by SimonR on Mon, Jan 27, 14 at 0:35...See MoreEstablishing Bermuda Sod {after improper start}
Comments (1)Assuming the builder graded the property for drainage, that is the perfect installation for bermuda. You should be watering briefly (5-15 minutes) three times per day, for the next two to three weeks until the roots are knit into the underlying soil. Do not let the underlying soil get soggy. Watch the grass carefully for signs of drying out. Give those areas just a little more moisture (longer, not more frequent). Fertilize with organics for now. After the roots are in, then you can start with chemical ferts if you want to. Find the Bermuda Bible online and memorize that. It's short. Here is a summary Weekly Mow low between 1 to 1.5 inches (lowest setting on your rotary mower) Water deeply once Monthly Fertilize heavily while the grass is growing That's about it. If you do those three things, you should never need herbicide. Never mind the problems and issues your neighbors have. They are likely not doing the three things I listed. For bermuda if you water too frequently and you get weeds. Mow too high and you get weeds. Don't fertilize every month and you get weeds. The program is simple to understand but a lot of work. The builder can guarantee bermuda because it is dead simple to establish. The only issue is if you do it wrong, in addition to getting bermuda, then you get weeds along with it. If the neighbors have weeds, it is only the fault of the owner. I don't care if you lay sod over a blanket of weed seeds, once the turf is established (weeds and all), it is much more likely to be the owner's fault for continuing to have weeds. Improper watering is almost always the reason. This is an interesting time of year to establish bermuda. You will also be sprouting spring weeds. These are also known as wildflowers because although the seeds germinate now, the plants remain dormant and below the canopy of the grass. Then in the spring all these flowering plants will pop up. Try to remember what I'm saying and not over react. All you have to do is mow them down. Most will go away after the first mowing. For those that don't go away, simply spot spray with Weed-B-Gone. At the end of the establishment period (3 weeks of daily watering) you may have some weeds come up. The reason for these weeds is the daily watering. If the weeds are broadleaf weeds like clover or dandelions, then spot spray with Weed-B-Gone Clover, Chickweed, and Oxalis spray. If they are grassy weeds, you'll have to take a tough love approach and spot spray with a grass killer or RoundUp. These will kill the bermuda in that spot, but the bermuda will return. The weed will not. The Bermuda Bible talks about deep watering. Deep means one inch all at one time. Measure one inch by placing several cat food or tuna cans in the yard and turning on the sprinkler. Time how long it takes to fill all the cans. That time will be anywhere from 20 minutes (high flow in-ground system) to 8 hours (oscillator on a hose). Your water pressure, sprinklers, and hose are different, so you have to measure your own time. During the hottest part of summer, watering once per week should be plenty (remember to IGNORE what your neighbors do on this subject). When the temps drop into the 80s, you should be able to water once every 2 weeks. With temps in the 70s, you should go once every 3 weeks. Lower than that an you can water once per month. This watering regimen is not a secret, but it is key to keeping weeds out of the lawn. Weeds need much more frequent moisture to germinate. They need the same watering you're about to give your new sod, but that can't be helped. Suffer through some early weeds, take care of them once the lawn is established, and then if you follow the rules, you should be done with weeds. Always water the full one inch unless Mother Nature has helped you along. You don't need any water for awhile if you just got an inch of rain....See MoreSt. Augustine sod or seeding with bermuda?
Comments (15)Buffalo requires full sun like bermuda to perform best so stratch that out.. Zoysia prefers a lot of sun, nowwhere as good shade tolerant as st augustine. If anything, I'd suggest coarse bladed type over fine type. Easier to mow with rotary mower at 3 inches. Empire and Palisades are my two recommendation. Actually, now that it occurred to me, Palisades has somewhat good shade tolerance and looks like mini-st augustine grass. keep in mind, they are like bermuda, They will take over plant beds, etc if left unchecked but not as aggressive. They spread underground so it makes it a bit tough to control and get rid of where it's not wanted. It should be fine somewhere that gets 6 hours of sunlight. Don't be fooled that they are drought tolerant. They still do need same amount of watering as st augustine to look good. The only difference is that st augustine will die if it doesn't get water over a long period of time while zoysia simply goes dormant and will come back once they receive water. Believe it or not "Floratam' st augustine outperforms all zoysia varieties when it comes to drought tolerant... Unfortunately, it has wimpy cold tolerance. Only for zone 9, MAYBE zone 8b. I think I have it up here but the sod place told me its not. Maybe it mutated from palmetto? Who knows... it seems to do fine up here. More aggressive for sure....See MoreBermuda grass very thin or not growing due to rocks?
Comments (14)We have the same issue in our front yard and believe it is gravel put there by the builder. I can't dig in any one spot without hitting the gravel and when I planted a vitex tree a couple of years ago I removed a bucket full of the small rocks in a 3'-wide area. In our case this area is what is known as the "bathtub" part of the yard where water runs in and may stagnate. There is a slight slope that runs down toward our home, so they probably poured the gravel down there to help it drain. It was no doubt compacted by construction machinery also. Despite those attempts this area is still soggy and in early spring is full of slime mold, so the gravel didn't even do what it was intended to do and makes planting any groundcovers very difficult. We put in a drainage tile that helped a lot with the water. The weeds, of course, love this spot. Is your area in full sun? Ours is in part shade which creates added problems because Bermuda does not tolerate much shade. Instead we have lots of moisture loving, shade loving weeds. If you have the sun that is what is giving your turf a fighting chance though the gravel being there will prevent it from really thriving....See MoreSodbusted
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoSodbusted
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoSodbusted
8 years agodarktower00844
8 years agoSodbusted
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8 years ago
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