If you have cedar or redwood in your area, you can use that, and they will prevent bugs. Or you could use that composite stuff that is a mix of plastic and sawdust ? it?s expensive, but it will problem last longer than you. You can use fir or pine, but it won?t last more than a few years. Or, like Gardenman said, concrete blocks. If you can get free compost, mix it with your soil. The plants need the minerals in the soil, as well as the compost. That?s a small bed for all those plants. Again, Gardenman has a good idea about using buckets (with drain holes), or make smaller beds just for the larger plants, so they can stick their roots into the ground if they want to. The cat litter buckets might be okay (only one plant per bucket), but don?t forget to make several drainage holes (about ?" diameter), and fill them with the same compost/soil mix. Insert a tomato cage into the buckets while the plants are still small. If you live near a Harbor Freight tool store, get a small electric soldering iron (about $5) (see link below ? push it in so it makes the larger hole, not the little one). They are GREAT for melting drainage holes in plastic! But do it outdoors, as the stink will knock you down (and burning plastic isn?t good to inhale, either). Keep away from children -- they're HOT! I would trellis the cucumbers (?cukes?) on the north side of the bed, both to save space and to keep them off the ground, which will produce straighter, less damaged fruits. Then you can plant the lettuce and carrots in front of them (on the sunny side). I would start the tomatoes, peppers and cucumbers inside, but sow the carrots and lettuce directly where you want them to grow. The carrots should grow about 2" apart from each other, so be sure to thin them when they?re a few inches tall, or you won't have a crop. Water the carrot bed first, then sow the seeds and cover, then cover the bed with cardboard. Check under it every few days, so you'll know when the carrots sprout, then remove the cardboard. They usually take about 2 or 3 weeks to stick their heads out (look closely, they're hard to see). Note: it's hard to believe a forum like this doesn't understand what an apostrophe or quotation marks are, but that is what goes in all those places that show a ? Sue Here is a link that might be useful: Small soldering iron

Well, at three weeks old I wouldn't chance it. Newly hatched chicks and turkey poults are often housed together, the more clever chicks often teach the poults where and how to find food and water. But by three weeks I'd separate them for sure. Velvet ~:>

First of all, joining needs to be done carefully, so I advise you to sit where you can place your pieces together in front of you, such as at the kitchen table. I join in the same order as the great example above in Alice's message. I always leave very long tails to sew seams. I hold the pieces to be joined with wrong sides facing each other. Then I take one stitch into the edge going from the top to the bottom of the first stitch on that piece's edge. Then I go across and stitch from top to bottom on the top stitch of the other piece I am joining. Pull the yarn tail just snug but not too tightly, and repeat. Once you put a garment together this way, it will seem easier to you and you can probably do it on your lap as you watch TV. If you don't have any binder clips to use, I use long corsage pins I have saved over the years from my daughter's corsages and her wedding and from my sons's boutineres. But I suspect that the binder clips are even better help.

No, not the peat or paper degradable pots thought I wish I could find those locally. They are in typical planter pots between 2 and 3 gallon sized, with the bigger roses in the bigger pots. There are 2 Harlow Carr that were shipped bareroot with bigger but trimmed roots so nothing to hold the soil yet. The Spring Hill Rainbow sale collection of 5, again shipped bareroot and no little roots yet- Pumpkin Patch Ch-Ching Cupid's Kiss Violet's Pride Take it Easy. The remaining ones were body bags I picked up on clearance and those had longer more developed roots with little white rootlets staring, enough to hold on to the body bag material quite well, which I soaked off gently. Those are: Cl America Therese Bugnet CL Don Juan 2 Knockouts. I used a mixture of potting soils: MG and Dr Earth Organic. Normally I would mix in some native soil when putting in a pot to eventually go in the ground, but I'm on red clay soil now and when it's wet one can forget working with it in any way, shape, or form. I have gardened in clay and shale before so at least that is nothing new. Anyway, I'm afraid if I try to plant them too soon there will be no/not enough little roots to hold any root ball and the stress might be too much for them. Moses, do you mind if I ask what general area of PA you are? Though I'm not from PA originally, I recently moved from Western PA. Thankfully I was able to pot up a good amount of plants, roses, and fruit trees to bring down with me. It's been quite an adjustment to gardening down here but my Zephy Drouhins were so happy they stayed green and in leaf all winter, however now I need to be mindful of the heat and humidity all summer long. Up there I felt comfortable potting something in late April or May and putting it in the ground in July, but here I'm just not sure. Thank you Seil, it's comforting to know that if there is good root development they will handle the heat ok at the time of planting.