Agonizing over Washing Machine Purchase - Fisher & Paykel Questions
shady_lady_pa
8 years ago
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sparky823
8 years agoRelated Discussions
I hate my Fisher Paykel Washing Machine
Comments (7)What is the specific model of your machine? There were three Intuitive Eco models sold on the U.S. market -- IWL12, IWL15, and IWL16. IWL16 uses a different method to detect off-balance spin than IWL12 and IWL15. I have an IWL12. Rarely have off-balance situations. No trouble ever with sheets. Items of hugely-differing fabric weights ideally should not be washed together (large cotton bath towels with lightweight knit casuals, for example). I also don't wash towels with sheets being as sheets are typically lighter-weight fabric. I have on occasion washed a set of sheets with typical casual, oxford-type button-down shirts ... the fabric weight is similar. When loading sheets, do not wrap them around the agitator. Gather up a sheet into a loose bundle and place it in the basket. Gather up the other sheet the same way and place it on the opposite side. Fill the space between with the pillow cases or other similar-weight items (lingerie is fine). If you have two sets of sheets to run, place each one in a quadrant of the basket, with the pillow cases evenly/loosely on top. Note that there is a designated LifeCycle for comforters. It's preset for high water level, a specific agitation profile, and runs two deep rinses, with no spin until after the 2nd rinse (the softener dispenser cannot be used). As a safety factor, the machine pauses before the spin, beeps for attention ... the display advises the user to press the item down below the medium-high water level marking on the agitator, then press Start to continue. Overstuffed/bulky items such as comforters may trap air and float/billow somewhat up out of the wash water. The pause and advisory before spin is to insure the large item is not sticking up out of the tub where it could get damaged/ripped/torn from contact with the machine or tub top. The creasables option reduces the spin speed from 1010 RPM (high) to 300 RPM (slow) ... or 600 RPM (medium) if the option is changed accordingly in the secondary menu. It also increases the auto-sensed water level one "step" higher (but of course not higher then maximum) so the clothes float more loosely in the wash water for less wrinkling, and adds an extra rinse before the first spin. Looking at my User Guide right now, it says A. Add detergent - Add detergent down the center of the agitator stem. There is no mention of mixing detergent with water before adding it to the machine. I've *never* done that, with either liquid or powder detergent. The instructions do say to dilute chlorine bleach with water....See MoreFisher & Paykel Washer and Dryer
Comments (35)tinatark said: You can't set a specialty wash to start later. - and - About the dryer, I think the reverse-tumble system should have a time out feature - I've left the house with stuff drying on the wrinkle free cycle - not realizing it - come home hours later and it was still tumbling! The washer's menu doesn't allow scrolling to a Lifecycle, pressing Select, then scrolling the menu back to the Delay Start option? You mean the Wrinkle Free function, not reverse tumble. Reverse tumble occurs every 4.5 minutes throughout the drying cycle, and is not directly related to the Wrinkle Free option. The Wrinkle Free function does time-out after approx 24 hrs. You do understand what the Wrinkle Free option is for, yes? It comes into play at the end of the drying cycle, when the machine would otherwise be done and shut off. If the Wrinkle Free option is enabled, the clothes will be tumbled without heat for about 30 seconds every five minutes to prevent wrinkles that would otherwise occur if the dry clothes were left crumpled and stationary in the drum for an extended period. The end-of-cycle signal beeps after each tumble, reminding the user that the load is actually done and ready to come out. Since you're out of the house and unable to unload, Wrinkle Free is doing exactly what it's supposed to do -- tumbling the clothes periodically until you return so they don't get wrinkled. Most dryers with this feature have it run a maximum of 40 mins to 2.5 hrs, depending on the brand and model. Running it for 24 hrs is one of F&P's unique features for clothes care and convenience of the user. Wrinkle Free is enabled by default on several cycles (Easy Iron, Delicate, Sheets, Shirts), but can be turned off before Starting .. or added to any cycle that doesn't include it by default....See MoreQuestions about Fisher & Paykel washers.
Comments (165)We have both the GW11 Washer (good choice and ok) and my wife insisted she wanted a new dryer to go with it (the old dryer did need a new timer but ok). I was no keen on the DGGX1 dryer due to its complicated machinations of side winder drum and door closer setup. What killed the original washer was lint build up as my wife does some fabric work and gets a load of that at the time and the rep said the GW11 was designed to avoid that, it has 100% good with that, never another lint problem. We had it 10 years and it started to make god awful squeals. After a lot of trouble shooting (there is a diagnostics for that) the pump was bad. Replacing the pump is a bit of a pain as you have to lay it on its side but otherwise easy as you release a tap and it pops out. Yes I tested the old pump and it was awful (I do a lot of mechanic building work so that is not new) One thing that fooled me was not reading carefully that the washer does a recycle water rinse soap thing and the pump would act up during that, so knowing the sequence and how it works points to the pump despite most washers using just fill water. However, in the course of making sure all was clean and ok I shined a light up the drain tube and saw a flapper. I am thinking its the diverter valve and in the wrong position but its not quite where the valve would be and its bright shiny silver, hmm, the size of a dime>? Yes a dime and plug of stuff. so you darned well better look or you can replace the pump and still have an issue. I pulled the other hose and made sure it was clean too. AND YES A SMALL OBJECGT CAN SOMEHOW GET INTO THERE SO DON'T BELIVE THE ONE POST, AT LEAST LOOK!!!!!!! Last they want you to splice in a fuse to the main board to protect it, they missed that. Its a dicey operation as the wires on the machine are tiny and the fuse wire is huge. Poor kit. I cut it in where there was a lot of room to res-plice if the splice went bad, they say right by the plug, if you do and you fray the wires you have no wire left to work with. Top loader is No Longer Made I believe, so only repair for old ones. As for the DGGX top loader, it worked ok until it got a squeeek/squak. Wisdom was the right side bearing, got it and nada, it was fine (typically we do 3 loads a week so we are not heavy users). What I found was the tensioner was making noise, I found if I moved it to one side it quit, so I wired it over a bit and ok for some time. 11 years into it and suddenly it goes nuts, squeeling, squalling and impossible. So I did the check of both ends, cleaned the right bearing, made sure the stub shaft was ok, cleaned the other end up and it worked ok for a week. the first screen assembly on the left end comes out easy as its a obvious Phillips screw and pops off. The assembly that holds the lint filter is a bugger as the screw is in the bottom and its a combo hex and Phillips type screw and its in there hard. Better off if you can get a thin wall socket in there (I got it out with Phillips but it better be a GOOD number two and you better be strong. Hex size is 7mm and not sure even a slim line socked will go in the hole. If not it might be worth drilling it larger if the screw will not move with a number 2 Phillips. the lint screen also had huge holes torn in it and no idea how or why, but that's 70 some bucks too. I think this needs to be checked about once every 4 years. then worse than even. Time to disassemble and look at that tensioner. Its fairly easy but you do need to know the steps and screw locations. This is a good guide. http://www.frontloadbearings.com/fisher-paykel-degx1-dggx1-dryer/#.VVa0DGzTmwV More or less you lift the lid, pull it straight up and it comes off. Remove the rubber plug left and right front and two screws come out (Phillips 2) and you lift the top and lay it back. At that point you need to unplug the connector that connects the display to the controller as the whole assembly will roll forward soon. then two screws on the front (smaller ones), spread the side and the front cover comes up a bit and comes off (ground connection also that needs to be put back. Once done then the whole drum rolls out and you can get to the tensioner (screwdriver to pry it off as there is an opening and pry against a bar. Our had one that was totally trashed with huge cleaned and uneven wear. Lubed and back together until parts get here. It was worth taking the front cover off as huge amounts of lint in the bottom including some that was blocking gas flow tube and covering up the intake about 25%. Not exactly maint free but reasonably done if you are handy. so line screen every 4 years inspect and clean it up at the same time and should be good. I don't know about the pulleys, why one is bad and one good when they both tension is mystery, kit comes with two and you may wind up if you have it long enough putting the second one on in the same place if it has more thrust or whatever took it out and it starting making noise 6-8 years in so it went quick for pretty light use....See MoreFisher & Paykel SmartLoad Dryer Questions
Comments (18)Hi all, Here is my latest update. The repairman came out before the holidays and found that it was a bearing that needed to be replaced. They didn't have one in stock so they ordered it and he said to go ahead and keep using the dryer since it would be a while - over the holidays. Kept using the dryer - the squeak would eventually fade after it started to warm up a bit. They also ordered the new lint filter part. Repairman came back this week - installed the new lint filter part and so far so good, I can see an increase in lint in my bucket, but I still bet it will get caught behind the sensors at the bottom. Only time will tell. Now back to the bearing. He brought a new bearing but found that while I was using the dryer this whole time, it was also wearing out the "roller" part, so he now has to get a new roller part and another new bearing. It isn't making the squeaking sound any longer, but now makes more of a "roaring" sound - which is the roller kind of "wobbling" because it has worn down somehow due to using it w/ a bad bearhing. I'm still using the dryer because he put it back together with the new bearing and said you might as well use it since I'm going to replace the two parts - and I cannot go without a dryer for weeks at a time. Apparently the parts are still under warranty, but I think I'll still have to pay for the labor - I don't know what it will end up being, but he has been very good about the whole thing. Oh, and the soot, I saw plenty of soot when he opened up the dryer, but none of it has gotten on my clothes - I think the soot is the roller thingy and the bearing rubbing together. I haven't had problems getting service - I purchased from a store we have purchased other things from before and they have been good about sending someone out quickly because they sold me the machine - it seems that F&P takes time to send the parts - they come from CA and we are on the east coast. More to come when the machine is fixed for good (fingers crossed)....See Moremamapinky0
8 years agoshady_lady_pa
8 years agoshady_lady_pa
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoshady_lady_pa
8 years agomamapinky0
8 years agoshady_lady_pa
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agomamapinky0
8 years agoshady_lady_pa
8 years ago
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