I hate my Fisher Paykel Washing Machine
DiggingInTheDirt
12 years ago
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dadoes
12 years agoRelated Discussions
fisher & paykel washing machine
Comments (1)More information, please. What model is the machine? Shut off the faucets, disconnect the supply hoses from the machine and faucets. Check the debris screens that should be at the faucet-end of the hoses for clogging, clean them if needed. Reconnect the hoses to the faucets, run each one, hot and cold, at full-force into a bucket (or into the machine's tub) to confirm the water supply runs at good pressure and is clear. There are also plastic screens inside the water valve connections. They are removable, but be VERY CAREFUL to not crack/break them. If they need cleaning and you're leery about trying to pull them out, flush them carefully with a cup of water and a small brush, or maybe a turkey baster. DO NOT SQUIRT ANY WATER INTO THE CONTROL PANEL. Reconnect the hoses to the machine, see if that helps....See MoreFisher & Paykel GLW 11 washing machine problem
Comments (11)It did fill now, but now on the last cycle. Did you mean "not on the last cycle?" ... meaning the 2nd load didn't fill to a reasonable level for the wash period? Washing large comforters on GWL11, use the Delicate cycle, manually set High water level. A broken agitator fin prevents proper sensing for the auto water level function. Resistance of the load against the fins during a series of test agitation strokes is part of the sensing process. Broken fins also contribute to off-balance incidents being as the load distribution will be thrown askew during agitation. Replacing the agitator should have resolved the problems related to it. Is the load really off-balance? Do you redistribute the items before restarting? Can't say if it's part of your problem without examination ... the tub support rods can get worn after some years of use and cause excessive off-balance occurrences. Replacement is fairly easy and they're not overly expensive, approx $80 for a set of all four rods....See MoreFisher & Paykel WL4227J1 Washing Machine and Matching Dryer
Comments (2)Every machine line has problems and/or lemons. I've had bad experiences with HE top loaders from GE ,Whirlpool and Maytag; they don't get the clothes clean. Yes, I have over 10 years experience with HE machines both top loaders and front loaders. The European machines will be too small to meet your needs for large loads. You are absolutely correct to avoid the GE RightHeight. Mine arrived broken and couldn't be fixed with the GE service available in my area. The machine became unbalanced with regular loads and could not remain in balance for more than 2 days after service. GE will fix, but not replace a machine as long as they consider it "repairable". Crappy customer service. Your experience may be better than mine. The Speed Queen top loader is a workhorse with old fashioned proven technology, but will not accommodate large loads; it's only 3.3 cu ft. The trade off is the cycle is much shorter than most of the normal front or top loaders so you can do more loads in the same amount of time. The top loader is not an HE machine. Nice washer, but it didn't meet my needs for capacity. Fisher Paykel has some loyal followers. The trick seems to be getting a machine that works consistently. I'm just not a fan of the HE toploaders with the water restrictions now in place for washers. I have an LG 5.2 cu ft front loader because I can get service in my area. I would have liked the Electrolux too. I would avoid Samsung like the plague. Good luck in your search....See MoreFisher and Paykel Washing machine Model GWL11 stopped spinning
Comments (3)No need to replace the pump unless there's something obviously wrong or it's suspect of a problem. There are two bearings (identical) and the seal. The three items are available separately or together as a "kit" from one online source I checked ... depends where you're shopping. The drive shaft is separate. Per specified procedure a shaft-and-bearing-replacement tool kit is to be used to remove the old bearings and shaft and set the replacements. I have not done this job so can't say how reasonable is it to do without the special tools and unfortunately I can't give you any DIY tips on it from experience. The service doc I have advises not to pound the bearings out with a hammer so as to avoid damage to the housing or tub. The shaft removes from inside the tub. The inner bearing from inside the tub, outer bearing from bottom of the tub. Grease on the bearings probably isn't necessary but probably couldn't hurt. In this case of leaking from the bearings & seal there's nothing else to replace that would have headed-off the problem. The point I was making is that putting off dealing with a leak is a bad idea in case it *is* from a bad pump. And actually, leaking from the tub seal can get the drive motor and RPS wet which also may lead to electronics trouble....See Moredudleyfuddpucker
12 years agoDiggingInTheDirt
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12 years agodadoes
12 years agoDiggingInTheDirt
12 years ago
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DiggingInTheDirtOriginal Author