Fact is, you hijacked a thread that had NOTHING to do with FL so you could post the same c*** you�ve been posting ALL over this forum. No one reading this post about TL issues cares about what you perceive about FL. If you can prove exactly 80% of what I say is BS - everyone on this forum would love to read it. You're just a bully who thinks he's always right and who thinks everything he buys is "THE BEST". I perceive that�s because you perceive you are SO much smarter than everyone else. Ya, sadly I�ve seen your posts on the appliance forum also. You have to jump on every thread you can find to tell everyone all about your great stuff. We've all read it OVER and OVER again. Don't you get tired of typing the same words all the time?? I sure get tired of reading them. Why don�t you try adding real value to a conversation?

99.999% probability the pump shorted-out from leaking and zapped the controller board. Repair can be done but is expensive with the board involved. Look under the machine at the pump ... a small electric motor with a cooling fan, mounted to bottom of the tub toward the right side ... for evidence of leaking -- rusting and mineral deposits. Replacement pump is part number 420325P, runs $109 at SearsPartsDirect.com or $139 at FisherPaykelParts.net Control board is part number 420094USP. $133 @ Sears or $189 @ the other source. Parts can sometimes be found on eBay. Replacement pumps (and replacement control boards) now include a retrofit fuse that is spliced into a pump wire in the console to help protect the board.

GWL11 has a "hidden" cycle to clean the machine of residue, but that may not be sufficient when it has already accumulated enough to get on the clothes. Try the cleaning process, repeat if needed. If the problem continues then disassembly is the only recourse. GWL11 is a little easier to disassemble than AquaSmart models. There's no cap to pry off the agitator, simply remove the softener cup, reach down inside and unscrew the wingnut. There are no Dynaflex straps, just one bias spring attached from the tub cover to the left-front suspension rod. Detach the spring from the suspension rod, leave it attached to the tub cover. The cleaning cycle is programmed thusly: Press and hold Favorite until it beeps a 2nd time and the light flashes. Select Perm Press. Select Hot wash. Press Favorite to save the setting. The cleaning cycle can now be run whenever desired by selecting the Favorite cycle. It may not include a soak period. The Soak option should be lit if so, try selecting it if not. Otherwise you can soak by turning off the power after a few mins of agitation, then restart the Favorite cycle to finish. I suggest using 2 cups of an enzyme-formula automatic dishwasher detergent instead of laundry detergent. Two cups of laundry detergent may generate a LOT of sudsing, dishwasher detergent doesn't suds and the strong enzymes will help dissolve the residue. GWL11 cleaning cycle CAN be used to wash clothes, and is the ONLY way to get a full-fill hot wash on EcoSmart models. To bobbie46 -- your AquaSmart should also have a cleaning cycle. Check under the LifeCycle selections for a Clean-up / Clean Me choice. A 2-hr soak is included. Use dishwasher detergent.

No need to replace the pump unless there's something obviously wrong or it's suspect of a problem. There are two bearings (identical) and the seal. The three items are available separately or together as a "kit" from one online source I checked ... depends where you're shopping. The drive shaft is separate. Per specified procedure a shaft-and-bearing-replacement tool kit is to be used to remove the old bearings and shaft and set the replacements. I have not done this job so can't say how reasonable is it to do without the special tools and unfortunately I can't give you any DIY tips on it from experience. The service doc I have advises not to pound the bearings out with a hammer so as to avoid damage to the housing or tub. The shaft removes from inside the tub. The inner bearing from inside the tub, outer bearing from bottom of the tub. Grease on the bearings probably isn't necessary but probably couldn't hurt. In this case of leaking from the bearings & seal there's nothing else to replace that would have headed-off the problem. The point I was making is that putting off dealing with a leak is a bad idea in case it *is* from a bad pump. And actually, leaking from the tub seal can get the drive motor and RPS wet which also may lead to electronics trouble.