Norberto - The reason for leaf abscission when a plant is moved from bright to dark isn't because the plant doesn't have enough energy to support the leaves, it occurs because lower light levels reduce the flow of a growth regulator (auxin) flowing across what is called the 'abscission zone'. As auxin is depleted in the abscission zone the area becomes sensitive to ethylene, another growth regulator, which works synergistically with auxin to promote formation of a corky layer (the abscission layer) which protects the plant from water loss and entry of pathogens after the leaf is shed. Case in point: if someone was to hang their hoodie on a large plant growing at peak vitality, such that a portion of the leaves are shaded strictly shaded, the shaded leaves only would be shed, even though the tree is making much more food (during photosynthesis) than the plant needs to keep its systems orderly. Keeping your plant's soil too wet is a serious and limiting issue; allowing it to get too dry is a stress-producing and limiting issue, though not as stress producing as when the soil is too wet. Still, it would make sense to avoid either issue by watering just before the soil becomes completely dry. Why choose one or the other horn of a dilemma when the dilemma can be avoided entirely? Inexpensive moisture meters do not measure moisture levels - they measure electrical conductivity. To see this in action, fill a clean cup part way with distilled or otherwise deionized water, clean the meter's probe, then stick it in the water and see it read 'DRY'. Sprinkle a little table salt in the water and you'll see the needle move all the way over to 'WET'. Use the wooden dowel as a 'tell' to 'tell' you when it's time to water. Water dracaena when the probe comes out barely moist after having been inserted to the very bottom to avoid drought stress. More about using a 'tell': Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support good root health, which is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to a build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Al

Tess You have received some good advice above. Let me add my two cents here. I have been where you are now and had to learn the hard way. Avs like to be pot bound and the regular potting soil by itself is too heavy holds water and will kill your plants eventually. Using a soiless mix will help you or adding plenty of perlite to your heavy soil but I would go with the soilless. One thing that happens with the way you are going now is you will either under water or overwater either way your plants will suffer. I seriously suggest you look into and try wick watering. Its the only way to go. Well, ok so that might 3cents worth.

Can't remember where you live, but I suspect some heat and humidity will kick them into gear. Are they outdoors or in? What are you temps and humidity? I've had plummies defoliate after applying fungicide or harsh pesticides -- especially in full sun, so be careful. Reduce watering a bit if they drop too many leaves. Since they're small, I'd just wipe leaves carefully with wet paper towel. Mist foliage with water every few days to discourage mites. Keep 'em warm and they should start to take off.

The foliage looks to me like it could be that of a Hybrid Damask (some of these are also classed as Portland roses), and the fragrance and rebloom are consistent with that. I don't recognize the variety. I also don't know anything about roses in Turkey: do you have varieties we don't have here in Europe or in the United States? I wish I could help you, but that's all I can think of at the moment. Good luck identifying your rose!