Opinions on Princeton Elm, Northern Red Oak, and Tulip Poplar?
jen1284
8 years ago
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jen1284
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Tree for a property line?
Comments (1)hey jeff ... down in the tecumseh/adrian corridor.. thousands of those carp elms were decimated by the ice storm 2 months or so back ... what a nightmare ... no electric for 3 days ... i am curious as to which lake... other than that.. soil type.. drainage.. water table.. overhead power??? any other facts besides you want tree ... the next best planting time will be in fall ... best being the key word .... my red oaks are doing 3 to 5 feet per year ... once established .... on sand.. with near total drainage.. fast enough for me ... tulip poplar tend to be brittle and have some breakage issues ... and probably about the same growth rate ... more facts will help define what tree .. NEVER plant anything because it is fast growing .... that should be the least of your considerations .... if at all ... is there any reason you are ruling out conifers for year around sight blocking for a property line???? ken...See MoreAmerican elms are back
Comments (32)I will have mine pruned up to about 12 feet before I let them begin their typical arching vase shape. I may go even higher as I see them develop a little more. I have "Liberty Elms," which may be a little more erect growing and less spreading. I think 5 feet it is a little low for an elm to start its division into its large ascending limbs. Without seeing what you have it is hard to give good advice, but if the tree is young and vigorous, as it apparently is, you can do some really radical pruning that may seem extreme, but as the tree grows it will quickly overcome the loss and start growing in a better shape. Maybe you could select the best and strongest limb that is nearest the center of the others and cut off or radically shorten the others. It may look like a real "hack' job for a while, but in the long run it may make for a better tree. One of my trees has a tendency to fork with one side somewhat stronger but deflected in the opposite direction by the lesser side of the fork. I have been cutting off the lesser side, even though it seems extreme and leaves the trunk a bit crooked. But the tree is growing fast and so far it seems that the crook to the right, and then the one to the left will hardly be noticeable as the tree grows bigger and develops a balanced crown. At about 12 feet I see the tree beginning to divide into a beautiful set of ascending branches. For my tree that is probably the height it will have unless it develops in a way in the next couple of years that makes me thing differently. Many of the elms that once lined our town streets had divisions of their trunks 15 to 20 feet high. --Spruce...See MoreNeed some opinions on shade trees for smallish backyard
Comments (5)I'd consider the "Autumn Blaze" cultivar of Freeman maple. Freeman maples are crosses between Acer rubrum (red maple) and Acer saccharinum (silver maple). They inherit a tendency towards red fall color from the rubrum and a bit more tolerance to soil alkalinity from the silver. Pretty good trees. You have enough room there for most any shade tree(s). I like Northern Red Oak too, and the tulip tree (Liriodendron tulipifera) also. The latter tree does have the genes to get very tall, but I don't consider that a problem. I'd not plant ash trees where you are. EAB is in your area. And while yellow birch is one of my very favorite hardwoods, it is very much a denizen of cool, northern forests. Unlikely to be happy in the Chicago suburbs. +oM...See MorePls help me decide on oaks to line the driveway
Comments (40)Sherry, it's good to know that about Bluff oak. If they're slow growing, then there would be no reason to choose them over White oak. I still really recommend Swamp Chestnut oak though. At three years mine is 10ft tall. Pam, longleaf pines can have some aggressive roots because they like to grow deep into the soil. In nature they have a taproot 6-10ft long. Just make sure you're not buying too large a tree in too small of a container. Before you buy, slip the container off and look for any large circling roots. If you see circling roots, pass it up and look for a smaller one. I prefer the smaller ones in the grass stage myself because they have the advantage of being able to put more roots down before height growth. We're really only talking a year or so difference in time....See Morejen1284
8 years ago
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