My guess would be tomatoes packed too tight in the jars and inadequate head-room. It shouldn't matter if they're raw pack. If there's leakage, it indicates a glitch in preparation somewhere. This was posted by Linda Lou regarding changes in wait times for canning: First, research done at the University of Georgia for the US Department of Agriculture has shown that to be safe, holding times at the end of the canning process need to be lengthened. More specifically, they used to recommend that after the food had been processed in a boiling water bath for the correct amount of time, the jars should be lifted out without waiting. Now they recommend, "When the jars have been processed in boiling water for the recommended time, turn off the heat and remove the canner lid. Wait 5 minutes before removing jars." For pressure canning, the recommended holding time was two minutes. Now the recommendation is to wait ten minutes. Here is the specific instruction: "After the canner is completely depressurized, remove the weight from the vent port or open the petcock. Wait 10 minutes; then unfasten the lid and remove it carefully. Lift the lid with the underside away from you so that the steam coming out of the canner does not burn your face." Carol

"The shower head in the high temp setting gives > 2.5 gallons per minute." Which is the factory flow. You can't get blood from a turnip. Find an adjustable spray head which will give you the perception of increased volume.

Your shower needs a temperature regulating valve. These are code for renovations or new builds. Just about all manufacturers make them. Probably the one of best is Simmons. Instead of the old style 3 knob system (or 2)there is one lever that passes through cold than onto hot, there is also a limit setting for how hot the water can get.These have been around North of thirty years. Lose the contractor if he is unaware of something remedial as this

I posted this in another area or the forum. I'll post it again for those who may have missed it. Your windows are only part of a very complex system... your home. Every home is different and every climate doesn't care... it just does what it does. The neighbor next to you in the same model home might change windows and save 50%... and you might do the exact same and save nothing. It might not make sense.. until you apply science. Energy is heat and follows it's own laws. It's laws tell it to move to a lack thereof by any vehicle available. Air transfer is the easiest but many others are readily available in most homes. Conduction, convection and radiation are the primary taxicabs. If your neighbors home is properly insulated and airtight, the energy might have been primarily using the old windows as the vehicle to move in or out. If your home isn't, new windows will only tranfer the energy to the next cab... like your walls or roof. Think (ATM) = money. Air, Temperature and Moisture always move in relation to each other. If you address one and not the others, they will bring it along for the ride anyways. A typical 2,500 square foot home has over a half mile of cracks and crevices in it's shell. Insulation defects DOMINATE the thermal performance of any assembly. If the insulation in that shell has even 5% of gaps or openings, it reduces the entire shell's insulating value by up to 70%!!! The effect is even worse with higher initial R-values. The air takes the energy for a free cab ride and steps on the gas. Heat does not rise, it moves equally in every direction. Only heated air rises when it is not driven in another direction by predominant pressure or airflow. If your house is well insulated and very airtight, then your windows might be the primary source of heat loss/gain. Changing these windows with a well insulated and airsealed product might make a huge difference in your energy bills. This would be the hope of everyone going through this process but it may also have very serious side-effects. If your old windows were a considerable source of air-infiltration, the reduction of this airflow will induce a negative pressure inside the home and may cause your cumbustion appliances to backdraft Carbon monoxide (CO). I have personally tested and witnessed this occurance by simply turning on a clothes dryer or a few utility fans. That was all it took to change the airflow. If a shortage is measured, the necessary amount of "fresh" replacement air can then be supplied by controlled mechanical ventilation. When you change any part of a structure's thermal or pressure boundaries with windows, siding, roofing & venting, etc., you have changed the rules and allowances. It is for these reasons and many more that I strongly recommend having your house professionally tested before and after any shell remodeling. The analysis fees are usually deductable from the contract amount of the work performed. These testing procedures are supported and recommended by the EPA and the USDOE and information can be found through their sites. The primary objective is to save energy and improve comfort and air quality in the home. This can be achieved in almost every home in America... if you, Test... Before you invest.