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Fisher Paykel GWL11 Spin Problem

8 years ago

Our washer today started having an issue where all cycles run fine. But on the spin cycle, the water comes on like it's trying to fill and is sprayed out due to the spinning tub. The water comes out the front under the lid as well as ends up under the washer. I did a test with a very small load...a few shorts, and it did it again. The rinse works and drains and I can hear the drain running when the spin cycle is on. But it seems to be putting a lot more water in than normal. Anyone heard of this??

Featured Answer

dadoes

8 years ago

Debris in the pump hose shouldn't cause your problem, although of course it should be cleared. You need to remove the diverter assembly for a look inside through the three ports. There's a rubber valve flapper that changes position to direct the pump flow to either the drain port or the recirculation port. Your problem is caused by the flapper not fully seating/sealing which allows some of the flow to bypass to the wrong port.

The wire connector should fit only one way if orientation of it is of concern. If it fits either way then orientation doesn't matter.

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Comments (6)

dadoes
8 years ago
This problem is typically caused by a partially clogged/obstructed or malfunctioning diverter valve that isn't fully shifting into drain position. Part of the pump stream during drain is going toward the recirculation hose/port (instead of all the flow going out the drain hose). The recirculation stream hits the rim of the basket spinning at high speed and sprays around under the top deck ... leaking from under the lid and down to the floor, and sometimes water will come out from the seam between the metal cabinet and plastic top deck.

As you probably know, the recirculation port is at top of the tub under the tub cover at approx the 1:00 position. You can observe during drain (immediately after wash or rinse, before the lid locks for spin) whether any water flow is coming from there .. should not be any. Or, you can observe the situation during spin by raising the top deck (with the lid remaining closed/locked). Pry out the two lid bumpers near the front corners, remove the screws beneath to raise the top.

The diverter valve is mounted to the bottom of the tub near the pump. Has three hoses connected to it (a short U-shaped hose from the pump sump, the drain hose, and the recirculation hose up side of the tub). Could be lint accumulation or a small object such as a hairpin or dime obstructing the diverter from fully shifting to drain position.
zrocck94
Original Author
8 years ago
Hey dadoes, I have read about a diagnostic mode, how do I get to this. Also I hear you have a repair manual for this machine as well, is it possible to see this??

Thanks again for your help as to have someone come look is very expensive.
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No need to replace the pump unless there's something obviously wrong or it's suspect of a problem. There are two bearings (identical) and the seal. The three items are available separately or together as a "kit" from one online source I checked ... depends where you're shopping. The drive shaft is separate. Per specified procedure a shaft-and-bearing-replacement tool kit is to be used to remove the old bearings and shaft and set the replacements. I have not done this job so can't say how reasonable is it to do without the special tools and unfortunately I can't give you any DIY tips on it from experience. The service doc I have advises not to pound the bearings out with a hammer so as to avoid damage to the housing or tub. The shaft removes from inside the tub. The inner bearing from inside the tub, outer bearing from bottom of the tub. Grease on the bearings probably isn't necessary but probably couldn't hurt. In this case of leaking from the bearings & seal there's nothing else to replace that would have headed-off the problem. The point I was making is that putting off dealing with a leak is a bad idea in case it *is* from a bad pump. And actually, leaking from the tub seal can get the drive motor and RPS wet which also may lead to electronics trouble.
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zrocck94
Original Author
8 years ago
Dadoes, I was able to locate the converter valve and did find some debris in the u shaped hose. I mistakenly unplugged the power from the diverter. Is there a way to know which way this goes back? Thanks again for the help.
zrocck94
Original Author
8 years ago
Dadoes, the debris was a toothpick that was wedged inside the diverter. I was able to pull the toothpick free, with some work. The diverter looked clear on that port. But you suggest removing the entire diverter to ensure its clear?

good to know about the power. I wanted to make sure that the wires would not have to be plug into a certain plug. Some items are like that and can cause issues or short out if plugged in wrong. Thanks again for all your help with this.
zrocck94
Original Author
8 years ago
Dadoes, I pulled out the diverter and the other ports were clean. I put it all back together and it ran through fine. Thank you for all your help with this!!!!

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