Fell in love with Neolith...need help on thickness!
jojo 1355
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
I fell in love with the Neolith calcatta slab a few weeks ago. My designer has gotten back to me and told me that we can only do it thin because of the edges and farmhouse sink. We can either keep it as is, which is about 1/2 an inch or do laminate on top which will be about 1". Of course to add the laminate is more pricey. Our kitchen is going to be somewhat traditional to the 1922 house with modern touches. Is 1/2 an inch ridiculous for a counter? How much does the thickness matter? Here's a pic of the slab with my cabinet...
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Comments (7)as all my compadres said, roobix - the tree looks completely healthy to me too.... You have described the normal flowering and fruiting of a mango tree and I have little doubt you will get a handful of fruit, rookie, to add to your diet (lol).... I would however give it lots of water during this period - at least a good soaking (10 gallons?) every other day as our sandy soil allows the roots to go deep. And it doesn't look like spider mites to me, just a smart spider's web to capture the bugs attracted to the foul-smelling flowers.... so Relax....breathe....we'll be curious for you to send us pictures of the fruit when it ripens...and by the way, if you could send the larger pictures (many here use photobucket) it would be less cumbersome to observe them... and exactly where do you live????? Welcome to the clan, amigo!!!!!! MDog...See MoreKenmore strainer's handle fell off
Comments (32)This handle can be re-attached with rivets. Solid, tubular (eyelets), or semi-tubular rivets may be used. I recommend the solid or semi-tubular type. However, the semi-tubular type must be of proper lenght to work right. If you do not have such, choose solid. Heading a solid rivet requires more peening, but it is the most simple rivet and is strong. Solid rivets can be cut to length as required. The cut end does not have to be pretty since it is going to be hammered over. Rivet materials: Do not use steel. Corrosion is a problem. Since the colander is made of stainless (probably the 400 series), a soft stainless rivet is good, but you may not be able to find one to suit. Other rivet materials are aluminum and brass. Aluninum is corrosion resistant due to an oxide film on it; Aluminum in contact with stainless may sacificially corrode and fail. This leaves brass. Select the rivets and drill holes: Two holes at each end of the handle. Dry fit the parts to insure that everything is ready. Joint sealer: A joint sealer is recommended. Mix up some clear to light colored epoxy for this. Put some epoxy in the joint and on the rivet. The object is to seal the joint and rivet holes. The sealer keeps water and crud from collecting in the joint, and reduces potential for toxins (from bacteria). After the handle is tightly riveted, wipe off the excess epoxy with paper toweling. After the epoxy has well set, the colander is ready for use. you may consider tagging the colander with the message, "Do not use in oven". I don't know why one would put a colander in the oven, or any other very hot place, but such a reminder is a good precaution. Many 5-minute epoxies soften at 150 F and melts with a little more temperature. Epoxies resistant to higher temperatures usually require longer setting times, some running more than an hour. But these epoxies can fail at 350 F. The best policy to preserve your good repair is to not heat it to high temperature and smoke the adhesive. A weather sealed joint can last the lifetime of the item....See MoreHelp choosing exterior vibe for our psuedo farmhouse
Comments (30)I love black windows - i painted the bay window in my kitchen black when I couldn't afford the steel/bronzel windows I coveted. But having said that, if the windows are black OUTSIDE (mine are NOT), then they should be steel/bronze windows, not wannabes. Black steel/bronze windows and doors are very hot today on super-high end construction/remodeling. And they can be utterly stunning! There are problems with some, and one must be very careful when choosing them or they can be cold and drip constantly. But in the end, while a classic look found on many, many old buildings and houses, it is a "LOOK" today. And then came the wannabes! The price of steel/bronze widows is in the stratosphere. They're perfect for the backs of historic houses in the West Village or parts of Brooklyn where the cost of the house itself may be 8 figures! What's another half a million for windows! Heck, let's go for it, says the hedge fund manager. But when they appear in solid vinyl on subdivision houses, one knows this is probably a look that is going to die quickly as they just plain don't look right. Steel windows have very thin muntins (the strength of steel makes this possible). They are wonderful for allowing in light and not distracting from the view! But the wannabes are just like regular old windows with wider muntins. And it's a LOT of black! A historic house near my neighborhood did this with some very expensive wood windows. I drive by there multiple times each week and it just doesn't look right. It looks like they were trying to be "hip"..."trendy" and they ended up just looking sort of silly. This is a look that is going to severely date a house very quickly! And since they're not simply painted, it will be there for a long time and not easily changed. You are building a sort-of, inspired-by farmhouse, but your taste is more industrial modern for the interior. It's a look that I quite like, surprising as that may be to others on GW! But I would not try to mix the two on the outside. Go with white and white. That's what a traditional farmhouse actually has, unless it's an old creamy yellow one. You cannot go wrong with this. As for my bay window...I'm very happy I painted it black even though it's definitely a "wannabe"! I'm amazed how the muntins disappear and I see far more of my garden outside. But it can easily be white or any other color someone after me might want. And it's INSIDE....See MoreHelp me decorate my living room - Desperate help needed!
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8 years agoI do think the thin countertop is very modern as well. But I'm hoping it leans more towards a modern 'touch' as opposed to 'out of place.' Other design elements include a white farmhouse sink, chrome cup drawer pulls, glass knobs, crackle subway tile in white, glass/chrome pendant lights, and my 'wow' piece...a light green blue star stove:
somersetlass
8 years agosomersetlass
8 years agoWhat i mean in pics.!
First one how I'd imagine a mitred edge to look it's best in a surface print material. I.e. The eye will always be drawn to the top and for that, there is no obvious white bit, just continuation to the end of the veining.
The edge like Joseph posted, which is beautiful on less obviously patented slab types but would bother me with neolith
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8 years ago
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8 years agolast modified: 8 years agojojo 1355
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