Thanks for your help but I guess I don't understand.... If we're talking about sheer volume/weight and not factoring in relative strength of material, then why wouldn't the formula read like this (assuming I wanted to create the 17% blend I described).... 10 lbs/100% = x lbs/17% That would mean (by my calcs) that for every 10lbs of material I would need 1.7lbs sulfate of potash and 8.3 lbs greensand. But then if you take into account that sulfate of potash is 0/0/50 and greensand is 0/0/3, I really get lost. Anyway, what are you basing your recipe on?

Like Potassium Sulfate (made by reacting Muriate of Potash with sulfuric acid) Muriate of Potash, or Potassium Chloride, is not an acceptable organic fertilizer because of the harm it does to your Soil Food Web and is therefore not an acceptable organic product. langbeinite, Potassium Magnesium Sulfate, or K-Mag is also a very soluble "fertilizer" knwon to be harmful to your Soil Food Web and is therefore not and acceptable organic product. Wood ash would be an acceptable source of both Potash and Calcium except the process of obtaining that ash produces prodigious quantities of air pollution. Composted chicken litter would be a good source, as would any animal manure if it is composted before adding to soil. There is some concern that the manure from egg factories will be loaded with antibiotics that are fed to the caged chickens in an effort to keep them laying eggs as long as possible. Your best bet for correcting any soil nutrient deficiency is compost and organic matter. I have seen my soil go from on deficient in Phosphorus, Potash, Calcium, and Magnesium, and a soil pH of 5.7, to a soil with optimal levels of P, K, Ca, and Mg and a soil pH of 7.2 using only compost and organic matter. It did take time, 3 or 4 years, but I did not spend any of my money on "fertilizers.

The Milorganite does not need to be watered in because it is a biological food. The other two chemicals should be washed down into the turf to dilute them a bit. If you don't do that then the morning dew will dissolve any chemical dust on the blades of grass and create a very strong solution rather than a diluted solution. That strong solution is bad for the grass blades.

Hi Madri: Very good question, the below link lists potassium nitrate has 13% nitrogen and 44% potassium, and salt index of 69.5, compare with 42.6 salt-index for potassium sulfate. So it's slightly more salt. Since there are plenty of acidic rain (pH 5.6) in spring time, using potassium sulfate (with 18% to 21% sulfur) would make it too acidic. Using potassium nitrate will be BETTER for spring time, to supply the nitrogen lost by rain reaching out, WITHOUT the acidic sulfur (sulfate). I would NOT use potassium nitrate during hot & dry summer, that's too salty. The reason why I use potassium sulfate (with sulfur) is to LOWER my alkaline tap water so roses can bloom. Most tap water are alkaline. http://www.algreatlakes.com/PDF/factsheets/ALGLFS15_Fertilizer_Salt_Index.PDF Potassium nitrate, 13% N, 44% K20 Salt index of 69.5 I re-post what I wrote to Jess in South Africa regarding her question on Epsom salt (magnesium sulfate): "Hi JESS: Epsom salt is magnesium sulfate, with 10% magnesium, and 13% sulfur, the rest is mineral salt. The problem with Epsom salt is its salt, plus it crystallizes when it's dry, causing soil to be compact. If you have heavy, sticky clay soil, Epsom salt is a NO NO. Clay soil doesn't need magnesium, since there's plenty of magnesium in clay soil. My sticky & heavy clay is tested exceedingly high in magnesium, magnesium is what makes soil sticky, it glues or binds particles together. Epsom salt is useful for sandy soil, with its crystallizing action, it binds the sand particle together, so the soil is less loose and retains minerals & water better. But clay soil tends to be higher in salt, so applying high-salt Epsom salt would make it worse." StrawChicago.