it will cost less to use a dropped header.... Everyone has their opinions. THose that didn't do it, think it looks fine and isn't worth the money to flush it up. those of us who flushed it up think its worth it. I don't know exactly, how much mine cost, we are doing a whole house remodel. I had a cape style house and I flushed up/removed the entire load bearing interior wall that ran down teh middle of the house, it broke up what is now my kitchen into the dining room, and divided my living room in 2. I do know it took 4 pieces of steel and 6 microlams (2 peices of steel per side of the stairs, and 3 microlams per side) the steel total was $2500. I also had to add a steel support column in my basement on a footing. in my situation, I was removing bedrooms to open up the kitchen, and living room it was definately worth it. It made the renovation completely integrated and looks like a colonial not a renovated cape. you have to decide whether it looks natural where you have it, or unsightly.

Ok. Let me try this again. I have color-coded the drawing to help explain what I am asking. What I am trying to accomplish is to have the benefit of extra space without totally removing the load-bearing wall. With the island I would like to put in, I won't have a wide enough walkway if I line the load-bearing wall with cabinets. However, I was thinking that I might be able to keep the support from the load-bearing wall, place a pantry, closets or cabinets around the supports for that wall, and create a non-load bearing wall behind it. Sort of bumping the wall back without losing the structural integrity it provides and without the cost of removing it, especially because I would need to put up another wall between the dining room and kitchen, even if it is not as long. Otherwise, there is nowhere to put the fridge. This means I would lose some space in the dining room, but we don't use it more than 1-2/times per year. I am attaching some photos of my very ugly current kitchen to give you a better idea of the current layout. At this point, I am wondering if this idea has any merit before I move into other floor plans for the space. I really, really want the big island but am not sure if it is feasible. 1. View from dining room into kitchen: view from front hallway near stairway 3.kitchen from family room 4. view of load-bearing wall from kitchen toward the dining room 5. another view of load-bearing wall 6. from garage entrance into kitchen 8.from bay window area toward load-bearing wall If there are other views you would like to see, please let me know.

If you are looking at LVL beams, you should have a table similar to this one, which gives you the guidelines for height and width of beam required. https://www.weyerhaeuser.com/application/files/8514/9517/9127/1484260463_TB-551.pdf  Based on my reading of this table (maybe I'm not correct) you may need quite a bit taller or thicker beam for the span. You also need to determine how the load transfers to the floor underneath, and verify that it has sufficient strength. The original wall had multiple points in the floor evenly supporting this area, and now you will have a post that puts a much heavier direct load on a small area. You may need a basement support below, or thicker concrete under that post. Do your calculations and plan, and then hire a structural engineer to verify the calculations and sign off on the plan. This will reassure you, and keep the AJH happy. The reason I suggest getting the data together yourself first is that engineers don't all work on this type of homeowner construction job, and its better to simplify the question for them. If the engineer has to find the load tables for your specific brand of LVL beam, and do all the other data gathering himself/herself (find data on supports under the post, etc.), it will take that much longer. Bruce

Live_wire_oak, I certainly wouldn’t dispute that most contractors would not use double 2x4’s for a header despite what the code allows (and therefore what is safe). I suspect that you and I know there are many things a contractor does when framing a house that has more to do with just meeting code. It’s much easier to tell your employees to frame every door and window with 2x12s to be safe and not have to do code checks for every opening. I will say though, the better framers in the small minority will take the time to understand what the actual header requirement is so as not to overbuild and create unnecessary thermal bridging.