Well, I finally did it...overseeded the 10-month-old TTPR/KBG lawn with TTTF and KBG...and it worked! So it can be done...but read on to find out how I did it...I was quite careful due to what people on here had told me about the PR messing with the germination of other seed due to allelopathy. I did this a little over a month ago now. I actually prefer the lawn consisting of a mixture of these three species, guess I'm odd since no one else here seems to like that three-way mix). We're at ~4.5 weeks now. The existing PR thankfully did not prevent or delay germination of the new seed. The TTTF started to come up within 6 days, and was fully up in about 3 weeks time. The KBG just started coming up last week. Perhaps it wored so well because the PR was only 10 months old. Or b/c it got heat stressed. Or b/c I mowed it to ~1.8 inches before hand on the last mowing before starting the project. I also thinned the lawn fairly drastically prior to over seeding, by utilizing heavy core aeration (three passes) and also verticutting (two passes). I brought up a lot of dead and living grass in the process. I'm currently touching up the few spots that need it with a little extra seed. Here are some photos of the project (same area plus or minus a foot or two) at the various stages for reference (I do consider it a successful outcome even if it was my first time doing it and I learned a lot!): The top photo is the before photo, taken on 8/17/12. The middle photo is about ten days after overseeding, on 8/29/12. You can see the existing PR and KBG, and the TTTF was in the midst of germination, but is hard to see in the pic. And the bottom photo is from 9/21/12, taken right after the first mowing and application of starter fertilizer (I decided to hold off on the fertilizer until after germination so as to slow the growth of the existing grass to prevent it from overtaking the new grass. I'm glad I did this). Here is what I used for overseeding: -TTTF (approx 75% Firecracker LS and 25% Bullseye) -KBG (approx 33% each of America, Bewitched, and Rugby II) -A low amount of the existing TTPR seed blend (see below) was mixed with the fescue and KBG seed; I only used this in those areas that were really bare after the verticutting/raking. In this way, I created a uniform lawn in the bare spots that blended with the old grass. (The existing lawn prior to overseeding was a blend of KBG and three cultivars of TTPR sourced from from Allied Seed: ASP6005, ASP6002, and ASP 6001.)

I think you'll have some of the K31 in there forever and since the two have very different growth rates (K31 grows a lot faster) and since K31 is a bunch grass, you could end up with a very clumpy looking lawn. I think that if you want to make it a clover lawn (or part of the lawn), your best bet would be to kill what's there now and seed the clover. Clover does spread, especially if you plan to leave it unmowed (so it will spread by seeds as well as stolons).

Tall fescue shouldn't spread, it should clump or bunch. By Kentucky Bluegrass mixture do you mean several different cultivars of Kentucky Bluegrass, or Kentucky Bluegrass mixed with other desireable (thin-bladed) lawngrasses? Assuming you've got KY31 and not some broadleaf weed that can't be eliminated with a selective herbicide, I'd hit all the KY31 with Roundup and reseed (or sod) the areas killed by the Roundup in about three weeks with a blend of quality KBG cultivars or a mixture that approximates the thin-bladed grasses you have now. We're approaching the best time of year for seeding. You *could* dig the KY31 out, but that sounds like more work than killing it with Roundup. So yes, dig up (or Roundup) *and* overseed a new mixture (or blend). I'm assuming the affected areas are large enough the existing KBG won't have time to spread and fill in the bare soil in one season. If you leave the soil bare you'll have weed problems next spring. I know what you mean about the unkempt look of KY31 growing in the midst of bluegrass. The blades are lighter green than bluegrass, much wider, and grow twice as fast so you have these unsightly things sticking up out of your uniform stand of lawngrass about two days after mowing and it just gets worse the longer you wait to mow again.

Welcome to the Southern Part of Heaven! I am a native of the âÂÂboroâ beside Chapel Hill. As you have seen, both warm season grasses such as Bermuda and Zoysiagrass can be grown here as well as cool season grasses such as Turf Type Tall Fescue(TTTF) and Kentucky Blue Grass (KBG). As was previously stated, there is no one grass that will grow here without pluses and minuses. I like the TTTF. I just did a renovation with it. I donâÂÂt like the brown in the winter either but to each his own. You may want to explore the Lawn forum on this site as well as the NCST Turffiles site http://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/ for ideas. I will say once you go with Bermuda you will never be able to change. It is very hard to get rid of and can be invasive. Wild Bermuda (wire grass) is very common around here and very hard to get rid of, if you can at all. More like controlling it. If you go with TTTF you will need to over seed about every other year because it does not self repair. KBG does self repair with rhizomes. KBG likes full sun. TTTF takes sun or shade. What a lot of people do is a mixture of TTTF and KBG. I think I may do that with my side yard next year. You should buy the new cultivars of seed that can be found at http://www.ntep.org/contents2.shtml. Look at the cultivars that did well at the Raleigh, NC test site. The Kentucky 31 fescue is about the worst fescue you can use for a lawn. Great for pastures though. No matter what grass you choose your cultural practices will have the most impact on success. That is fertilizing (mostly in the fall, definitely not in the summer and maybe very little if any in the spring around here), watering (1 inch a week all at one watering so it is deep watering) and mowing (TTTF to 3-3 ý inches). And get a soil test. It is free. Good luck.