What you need is a 1/4" straight connector. You can also use a 1/4" stake to hold the dripper at the plant. But why not just put the dripper directly into the mainline tubing? A filter will help keep the drippers from clogging. Another thing, 50 psi may be too much pressure. Drip irrigation is meant to run at low pressure, that high of pressure could blow your fittings/drippers off. If your pressure is too high, just don't turn the faucet on all the way, or get a pressure regulator.

Colin - your explanations of restore, system restore, back up, etc were very helpful. They were a very useful edition to what Ravencajun wrote - it didn't seem repetitive to me. I think I can really use any reiteration at this point. Now I actually understand that the system can be backed up to a hidden spot on the hard drive as well as my backing it up on dvd - to be used in the event that the hard drive back up doesn't work. By George, I think I've got it...........Well - at least that part. I'm not sure that I saw any option to create a back up start-up disk. Was that automatically included when I backed up the entire hard drive - or is there a separate step I should take? I also realize that I hadn't understood what you meant by blue button. I was looking at an actual blue button the thinkpad keyboard. Will that button do - or should I be looking for something else. I didn't not notice any blue buttons on the screen (except the Avast buttons in the task bar). Raven - I have a question about revo uninstaller. What would it uninstall? I noticed that I have Office on my computer but I don't know if it came with Office - or if this is a trial program. Is there a way I can figure that out? If it's a trial, I'd like to remove it. If it's permanent, I'll keep it. I know I did not get Microsoft Word with this and thought I had chosen no office software. I was planning on getting open office for the few times I might need to work on a word document (working on a document that is in Word on my desktop). Zep - good point about the printer software. I know when I chose the Canon mx850 and was researching printers, these were considered much better in terms of minimal bloatware (than say the HP's). I know when I installed the software on my desktop (and my daughter's) that several files were installed, but I think I want them all. The computer is networked so I can scan documents to any of our computers - print from any computer, fax from any computer, etc. I'm not sure how I would determine if any of those canon files are bloatware. More on my progress: -I did do all the lenovo updates. -ran javara and updated java and removed old programs. -installed and ran malwarebytes, spywareblaster. Any particular settings I should choose for spywareblaster,malwarebytes or Avast? I have so far just chosen the defaults - but don't know if I should "protect?" cookies - or anything else. And I just realized that I forgot to install superantispyware. For Avast, I did not set up scans on the screensaver - because at this point I will be turning the computer off if it is not being used for a while. If I just happen to walk away for 20 minutes or so, I don't want a scan automatically running that I have to wait to finish - or interrupt and cancel it - and run it manually later. Does it seem okay to just run it manually? If so, how often? Maybe I should use the screensaver option? I think "protecting (I know that's the wrong word - unselecting ?) cookies was for ccleaner - not anti-spyware programs. Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong. So now I'm off to get superantispyware - run secunia and get any necessary updates - and set up the printer software. This is extremely gratifying to be able to do this (with everyone's help). It really helps me to understand what's going on with my computer. Thanks. Lynn. PS - if I get open office, is there anyplace in particular I should download it from? Are there parts to download and parts to avoid - or do I just download the whole program?

We have a 24" sink base by a wall in our double sink vanity and I find myself standing off-center of the sink, so I don't recommend that. It'd be comfortable with a 32" sink base. I drew up the off-centered design on graph paper to see if I could make it work with a 32" sink base. You have about 51" when you subtract your fillers, which would give you ~ 19" drawers. 32" + 19" is a good visual balance for a vanity. If it has an 8" full bottom drawer, you're not losing much storage to a sink base. You do need some undersink storage for cleaning supplies, plunger, a package of TP, and large bottles like mouthwash. You could have the cabinet maker make dividers in your top drawer. In my cabinetmakers' drawing, I think the two top drawers are 6" and the bottom two are 8". The deeper drawers are handy when you have the medicine cabinet for small items like toothpaste. You have to make sure the mirror, medicine cabinet, and sconces fit when you off-center the sink. You'd need to use the bath bar style sconces because they only project about 4" IIRC. Placing your mirror 4" from the wall, you'd get a 24" mirror and an ~ 19" cabinet. In your latest drawing, I like the mirrors flanking the recessed medicine cabinet. I'd stick with the bath bar style sconces in your original drawings or sconces with a cylinder type shade. With a centered drawer base, your drawers will be around 13.5" wide. I have a custom kitchen drawer that size with undermount Blum glides and the interior of the drawer is 10.5", so figure on losing 3" per drawer. You can figure out the total square inches each vanity design gives you. If you did vanity towers on the side, I'd recess them and mirror the front. Your vanity is too small to have two clunky towers on the counter. This is the vanity I asked my cabinetmaker to copy for his drawings of the recessed hutch in my old thread. If your cabinetmaker uses a computer program, he can show you everything in 3D, which helps you visualize.

Don't claim to be very techie about retaining our perennial cultivar identifications over years. We now have rather a lot of garden pictures (on locations in the bed, as well as of individual plants - very useful in retaining identifications) (use Mac Photos), but also keep site maps drawn for perennials at the time of planting.. I find yearly summaries of what's still there, at least for my choice of key plants, is also necessary (different summaries made at appropriate times during the growing season). This almost always works for plant identification over time, at least for me; and that, with our perennial beds which are kept crowded. I also find uploading key (for me) photos of individual plants to the Plants Database of the National Gardening Association helps me to keep identifications sorted out in my own mind. Occasionally, the Plants Database has to correct my submissions (clerical errors on my part). And, I also really like the friendly and focused way in which the occasional disagreements from me are handled. With the cultivar name (plus the common name or the rest of the botanical /horticultural name) other things can be looked up.