Finger Lakes, my old home. Here's a good doc that goes over some treatments. My experience with drug store type hydrogen peroxide. There are different chemicals used to control string algae. All have basically the same issue. They're all perfectly safe and say so over and over. When you read the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet), the only place sellers are required to tell the truth, you'll see an entirely different story. These products are only safe when applied exactly right. Apply a bit too much and you kill fish. And that's how sellers define "safe", fish don't die within a few hours of application. It's like saying it's perfectly safe for humans to breathe carbon monoxide, as long as you don't breathe too much. Of these chemicals the ones containing hydrogen peroxide (HP) are safer imo, but can still kill fish if over dosed. These use HP in granular form, many times stronger than drug store HP and millions of times stronger than the few molecules of HP produced by rotting organic material like barley straw. Strong HP kills string algae almost on contact. Question is then what's worst, a pond/stream full of green string algae or brown string algae? IMO it's easier to remove live string algae than dead. Certainly a massive amount of decaying string algae can cause water quality issues, but much less so in a natural stream which is always being flushed. Either way it has to be removed by hand. Kind of defeats the purpose of the chemical. However, once string algae is removed HP can be used weekly, or a few times a week, to keep killing new growth. Because this is a natural stream whatever chemical you add would be flushed away. That makes chemical much safer for fish. But it also means you'd have to apply more often. For HP treatment I'd guess you be talking about hundreds of dollars per year.

I have used these photos to landscape a 'dry waterfall' on our steep front yard. (Georgia also.) I 'found' my granite free from a nearby construction site (ask first!) It is a lot of work, I did not put down landscape fabric because I wanted to plant in between the stones. Start with the lowest section and work back up, backfilling and placing the stones. Remember to bury 1/2-2/3 of the stone for a natural look, not even Stone Mt. is completely exposed. Hope this helps. NN http://www.pbase.com/waterfallrich Here is a link that might be useful: waterfall and stream pics

You could make shelves by putting stone block around the bottom and stack them to a height you like then take that slate that is sitting around the top of your pond and lay it on the blocks to make a nice shelf. Then get large rocks of different shapes and sizes and "break up" your shelf by laying a few here and there and stacking the stones up the sides to hide liner then lay larger stones around the edges hanging over the edge of the pond to give it a nice natural look. My plants are on the shelves and like I said rocks here and there with the plants in between makes it look very nice.

Hello, We have an older Sony CRT with no HDMI cables. I have a Zoom brand cable modem connected, via a cable, to an Apple wireless rounter (A Base Station, they call it.) This gives us wireless internet in the house. I have a Roku box connected to video inputs on the TV. This is the old three color system, with white red and yellow pin inputs. The cables for this were in the box with the Roku. The Roku has wireless capability so it works off of the router signal when just plugged into the TV and the power source. We do need to switch between video feeds on the TV to get to the Roku, but this is a simple matter of pressing a button on the TV remote. If you have something like "video 1, video 2, video 3" selections and you only get a blank screen, those inputs are marked as such on the back of your TV and you can use them. If you only have one set of these, you may have to swap out the cables if your DVD player uses the inputs. This might be a good argument for getting a Netflix enabled DVD player or game console. If your DVD player is a good one and you can't see spending the money, you should consider the Roku. The base model today is $59.99 at Roku.com. The website lets you see the back of the device, so you can check out the input areas to see if it matches what you have on your TV. They are very backward compatible in general, so I'm sure you won't have problems there. I bought the XD model ($79.99) for when we upgrade to a better 1080p HD in a couple years, plus it supports the wireless "N" protocall which is the newer, fastest level of wireless and it matches our router. I may have wasted $20.00 because we don't use the internet while watching the Roku and my guess is with the way HDTVs are developing, our future TV will have Netflix ability built into it and we won't need the roku box. Oh well! All it might take for you to get up and running on DSL: call your provider company and ask them for a wireless DSL modem. You might be able to get one for free from them. This will give you wireless in the house and your Roku box will be up in a jiff. When we had DSL we had the wireless router and were happy with it. There was an initial problem with not being able to acess the internet while on the wireless phone, but that is a setting on the modem that can be changed with a quick call to your provider. It is a simple fix and they walk you through it. As to the bandwidth issue go to www.speedtest.net and check your speed it is easy and free. You might be able to research your speed and see how this effects others with Netflix. Just a thought. To give you courage, (if you need it!) go to Youtube and search "set up Roku on DSL," or "set up Roku." Peolpe have made some quick video's of themselves doing this and you'll see how simple it really is. Good luck with it all! We love streaming Netflix. We still sometimes look at each other and say, "This is so awsome!" Here is a link that might be useful: Speed test