Yes, make a new mix, good idea with hose end sprayer! I use sulfuric acid, best mix beforehand, I can't afford no mistakes. I actually don't use it that much as I collect rainwater.

I'll offer my 2 cents based on my own research and experience. It'll give you sometihng to consider until others will weigh-which I'm sure they will. Do you notice how the area right around the veins is dark green while the areas between the veins is yellowing? This 'road map' pattern is indicative of an iron deficiency. It's probably not a matter of your container mix being iron deficient--though it could be. Rather, at pH of 7 and above iron (and manganese) become much less available to the plant. The common wisdom is that blueberries prefer a very acidic soil. A more accurate statement would be that blueberries tolerate low pH soils because it's easier for them to get the nutrients they require. As long as you provide the required nutrients in a form the plant can use, blueberries will be perfectly happy growing at higher pH levels. I have native stands of lowbush blueberry on my property which are growing in acidic (pH 5.0 - 5.5) sandy soil. I have transplanted others into my nutrient-balanced garden soil (pH 6.5) and they grow equally well. In fact, the garden-grown blueberries taste are much sweeter. As a remedy for your situation, you could try to lower the pH of your soil solution by (i.e. your irrigation water and nutrients) by adding vinegar. If that doesn't work, the addition of iron sulfate or iron chelate would be appropriate. If you search here in the container forum, I think you'll find several threads/posts with information about this. As a final thought, many 'experts' advise planting blueberries in a soil mix that is large part peat. If you're not familiar with Tapla's seminal post regarding water movement (link below) it explains in detail why a peat-heavy soil simply doesn't work in containers. This is doubly important for plants like blueberries which abhor wet feet. Good luck! Here is a link that might be useful: Container Soils - Water Movement & Retention XIV

Even if there was a a significant N supply, there wouldn't be a notable breakdown of the bark within such a short period. Might you be noting the bark particles snuggling together more tightly, which reduces the o/a volume by diminishing air space? How long a soil lasts can be over-shadowed by the need to repot or divide plantings, or in some cases just turn them onto the compost pile if the planting is comprised of annuals. As plantings mature, the root system often become a part of the soil structure (with some soils, that never happens because the lower part of the soil is always saturated). I've seen some plantings where at least 90% of the original soil mass has gassed off, leaving only a small fraction of soil in a pot filled with roots. If you are growing a plant that doesn't produce an extensive root system, you can probably go 2 years using the 5:1:1 mix before collapse becomes much of a problem. If you have a planting with a vigorous root system, once you get to the 2 or 3 year point, the roots have either becoming a part of the soil's structure, so even as the 5:1:1 soil breaks down and collapses, the roots themselves should be contributing to aeration and drainage, or roots have formed a mat so dense that water and gases don't penetrate. In either case the remedy is repotting or if appropriate, dividing. Al

Hello, first post here :D Can anyone recommend a source around Portland for the appropriate bark for the gritty, 511 and similar mixes? Horizon in Milwaukie (near Bob's Red Mill) carries Turface MVP, and down the road, Concentrates (across from Lowes) is a good source for granite / grani-grit, perlite and other container planting materials. Bark is another story- everything I find is too large, any help is appreciated! :D