Not only would I suggest that you stick with the 5-1-1 mix, especially if your plants are healthy and happy, I'd go so far as to say that a repot probably isn't even strictly necessary at this point. Here's why: fabric pots function more like raised beds than containers (that is, as long as they're in direct contact with the ground/soil). That means that, even if your mix has compacted as it has broken down, your fabric pots won't support a perched water table in the same way that plastic will. Also, fabric pots encourage branching rather than circling roots, which helps to prevent plants from becoming root bound (or at least slows the process down). Furthermore, blueberries' fine, net-like root systems aren't all that prone to circling anyway (or, at least, that's been my experience), so the combination of fabric pot + blueberry gives you more latitude than you'd have with other plants and pots. That's not say that root maintenance is a bad idea, especially if you noticed any signs of flagging growth or stagnation. Rather, I'm merely suggesting that it's not necessarily a "must do" at this point. However, if you do decide to bare root and repot them, then I'd stick with the 5-1-1 mix or something similar. If you want a mix that's suitable for fabric pots and that will also hold its structure longer term, then I think I recall Al recently recommending something like 3 parts screened park to 2 parts turface. I haven't tried it, but I suspect that the standard gritty mix would drain too well and dry out too quickly in fabric pots.

I have a couple of questions for you.....how much leaf loss is there? Could it be in keeping with seasonal issues or the normal shedding of foliage? I'm not up on the climate conditions of Auckland but I am pretty sure it is a Mediterranean type climate, much like mine, with pleasantly warm summers and mild, wet winters. And most blueberries are deciduous shrubs so lose their leaves in winter, even in Mediterranean climates. Even the so-called evergreen types do not retain ALL their foliage in winter. Is not this normal, annual shedding a typical situation for your area? As for the feijoa, even evergreen shrubs shed old foliage - without knowing the extent, it's up to you to decide if what's happening is beyond normal. And I certainly wouldn't expect to see any new growth on either plant in the middle of winter, either :-) If you repotted recently because of the abundance of winter rain, I am also questioning the need for both the watering/fertilizing regime you are following. The bulk of my rainfall falls in winter as well and I never need to water outdoor containers at that time of year. I also would never fertilize during any dormancy or no/very slow growth period, containerized plant or not. I don't necessarily confine my repotting to just the winter months, although that is often recommended. But even when repotting during the active growing season, I would not expect to see a lot of leaf drop, provided I was careful with my work. So I am concluding that either a) the leaf drop is normal or close to it; or b) something is off with the watering and fertilizing program (leaning in this direction). But not the timing of the repotting or an issue with the soil mix.

Figure the volume of all the pots, convert to cu ft. You'll get just under 3 cu ft of 5:1:1 ( for every 2 cu ft of PBFs + 4 gallons each of peat and perlite - or about 22 gallons. For every bag of Turface you buy (1-1/3 cu ft) & screen, you'll get just under 1 cu ft of screened Turface. Combine 1 cu ft of Turface with equal volumes of screened pine or fir bark + screened grit, you'll get about 2-3/4 cu ft of gritty mix. There are about 7-1/2 liquid gallons in a cu ft of material, so you'll get about 21 gallons. Since the grit has greater bulk density, you'll need more bags of grit vs Turface and fewer bags of bark at 2 cu ft/bag. Al

One more site, more in depth article. Plus explains Plants are very Endo mycorrhrizal dependent. http://www.spectrumanalytic.com/support/library/pdf/Fertilizing%20Blueberries.pdf Excerpt: Spectrum Analytic recommendation is a flat 65 lb. N/ac for blueberries. We don’t distinguish between young plants and mature ones because we simply have no practical way of identifying the age of the planting and adjusting the N recommendation accordingly. However, we agree that young plants should receive less N than mature ones. Some authorities recommend N rates up to 140 lb. N/ac for mature plants. Most of the highest N recommendations are located in the Western states. The following table gives an example of some N recommendations made by various University Extension services So if they are estimating 1000 plants per acre, thats 6.6ft apart, 43.6sqft per bush. 65lbs N/acre annually average. Estimating each bush receives 1/1000 the amount of N 65 lbs/1000 is 1oz N per Plant per year. To be safe start at 1/4 this amount or .25oz N per Bush. Dr Earth Acid Fertilizer is 3-4-3 so at .25oz N this is .25/.03 = 8.3 oz 3% N Fertilizer per year (0.7oz/month). Thats about 2TBS per Month per plant at Fertilizer density of Sp=0.67. They recommend Potassium Sulphate as the K source which is in the fertilizer. So this is a questimate only maybe start at 1TBS per plant for the first month to watch the response. Then you can increase gradually as needed to find the best amount. Maybe others with more experience with Blueberries can give more info. I hope it works, keep the group informed how the Plants are doing, this will help expand the Knowledge Base. Dr Earth Acid Fertilizer is 3-4-3 Ingredients: Rich in: Wild-caught Alaskan Fish Bone Meal, Valley Grown Alfalfa Meal, High Country Feather Meal, Cold Water Kelp Meal, Mined Potassium Sulfate, Elemental Sulfur, MicroActive™ Micronutrient-rich Seaweed Extract (synergistically boosted with micronized humic acids for maximum bioavailability). Infused with Advanced TruBiotic® – consisting of “Five Champion Strains” of beneficial soil microbes and eighteen select strains of ecto & endo mycorrhizae Target pH 5.4. Ideal for: All acid lovers, maples, camellias, azaleas, hollies, gardenias, hydrangeas, evergreens, ferns, shade plants, tropical plants and all berries. Sidenote: Whatever soil mix you decide on, eliminate adding the limestone. You can also investigate the fertigation approach for fertilization also. Just use the best ingredients for the mix (ie ammonia based N, Potassium Sulphate instead of Potassium Chloride,and SuperPhosphate added to soil mix). The article has fertigation amounts, might start in the range 10 to 30ppm N. If you want to supplement N with 21% N ammonia sulphate 10ppm N is 10/(21*75)= .006oz/Gal or 0.19 oz(about 1tsp) per 30gal Trash Can of water. You see how low this is. MG All Purpose 24-8-16 contains Potassium Chloride which is questionable. Maybe look for something similar with a different K source for Blueberries. Sidenote 2: You can also make concentrated Stock Solutions( 1% to 5% N for example) for easier measuring to a watering can or siphon mixers. Many Hydroponic sites have info for making custom fertilizer solutions.