I know somebody out there knows!

In the spring, the buds break giving you a new stem with many leaves, not just a single leaf...if we're talking about the same thing. Pic of what you are talking about?

The "leaf" buds are just like any other tree. They break, eventually beginning the process of new stem growth/stem elongation while developing new leaves as long as the stem elongates.

How long will the stem grow on my little gem magnolia?

You're asking how much growth you can expect in one season on 'Little Gem'? Probably less than a regular Southern Magnolia variety. But it depends on the health of the plant, how long it's been established, where on the plant this 'stem' is located (leader, or toward the bottom), how rainy the season is, etc. etc.

Why don't you measure one this year and find out?

Alternately, you should be able to look at your plant and see the scar or location where it started to grow the year before. Measure last year's growth.

the first season or two .. after transplant... the growth can be very variable ...

there should be transplant shock of some level ...

but there is also the issue of hyper fertilization of the potted stock.. before you got it ...

so it is not uncommon.. that all other variables done proper ... the first year it grows to standard.. sometimes even a bit more...

but then the second year.. they often fall back a bit .. grow a bit less.. but more to standard ...

there is no real upside.. to keeping the plants juiced ... like the grower did .. just let them be themselves in other earth ...

but.. you are responsible for all water for two years.. until it is fully established .. and after that.. they should ne near care free ...

ken ..

I heavily fertilized it and now there are several more buds forming in addition to the ones that were already there. I guess i will get no flowers this year but i want it to be very lush.

You will probably still get at least a few flowers this year ;^)

NM, I was thinking this was your Little Gem!

We are talking about my "Little Gem", even though the title doesnt state that.

You still think i will get some blooms?

Definitely

If I may add to this line of questions, how do the leaf sizes compare? From descriptions, 'Little Gem' has smaller leaves than the species. How about 'Edith Bogue', ‘Bracken’s Brown Beauty', or 'D.D. Blanchard'?

@kentrees12, thank you very much. I personally like the larger leaves and am trying to select one for our backyard in midKY. Would you happen to have any generalizations on the differences in tree structure between EB and DDB? I prefer a more open structure. It will be mixed with hemlock and white pine and shaded for the time being a large, high canopied hackberry tree.

I've seen lots of DDB, it is a popular landscape tree in the SE. I've only seen one EB, my tree.

EB's main claim to fame is it's supposed hardiness. Mine is in full sun and wide open, no large trees anywhere near it. It is about 20-25 years old from a one gallon. It is wider than high, branched to the ground, and fairly open with somewhat long willowy branches. It took a long time to bloom, and is even now a rather shy bloomer. Blooms are of average size. For me EB has been of average hardiness, it has never lost any wood or suffered any bark split, but it has had browned foliage, though never defoliated. On a scale of 1-5 I rate it 3.

DDB is very popular and often seen in private landscapes and especially public ones. It is upright in youth and more spreading as it ages, but taller than wide. Foliage is deep glossy green above and copper/red beneath, especially when young. The tree presents a lush, rich appearance and is a vigorous grower. Floriferousness has been average, but blooms are well formed and slightly smaller than average, a good thing IMHO. Hardiness has been on a par with EB for me, the literature says less hardy than other hardy clones, zone 7. On a scale of 1-5 I rate it 5.

All magnolias grown under conditions you describe will tend to be open, with slightly larger than average foliage and less than average bloom, all due to shade. If DDB and EB are the only clones under consideration, my choice would be DDB.

I'll have to try both. I went ahead and purchased a 1 gallon 30" EB from RareFind (35% off sale). Being stingy on the flowers isn't a deal breaker for me since the big draw is having foliage during the winter months and that it will complement the texture of hemlock and white pine.

Nearby is a big leaf magnolia (ashei) and I'll have later blooming rhododendrons, plus I'm thinking about a nice creeping aurea yew underneath the southern magnolia to give contrast.

Here's 'D.D. Blanchard' for comparison, location nr Annapolis MD

"plus I'm thinking about a nice creeping aurea yew underneath the southern magnolia to give contrast."

Nothing grows under my EB Magnolias..., shade too dark and the foliage low to the ground. Plus, Magnolias are shallow rooted and will compete with anything underneath it.

EB is a fine cultivar, I also recommend 'Victoria' in colder zones (verb nice, dense form with leaves somewhat smaller than than the species). Another nice feature is that the growing tips are reddish (similar to Rubber plants). Have no experience here with 'Brackens Brown' which is also famously cold hardy/ . I also grow Majestic Beauty and Little Gem, but those are somewhat more tender.

P.S.., So many varieties, it is hard to keep up and in the big box stores the labeling is less than satisfactory. I have another variety that was unlabeled that has very strong vertical growth but is narrow; undersides of leaves are cinnamon and quite fuzzy. Any guesses without a picture. I am guessing Teddy Bear.

sub...

It could be Magnolia Grandiflora Alta.......

Subtropix, that is why I am going with a yellow spreading yew and the branches of the magnolia will not go to the ground. The yews will be pruned to an open natural form. Irrigation will also be present.