Really good to get confirmation on this tree, bahia. And yes, I have a Moro I planted last year. No flush or flowers, yet, same with the Bearrs lime and the Pixie mandarin, so I'm going to pinch the tips to force new growth. Plus put down fertilizer. Hoping we're all done with this crazy cold weather, so my new growth doesn't get nipped. Here's what I've got in my little home orchard for citrus right now: Two oranges of unknown variety (probably Valencia of some variety, were in such bad shape when I moved in in Fall '09, I couldn't even tell what type of citrus they were, one still may not make it) Moro Blood orange Cara Cara orange Meyer Improved Lemon (survived the neglect and has a gazillion lemons right now) 3 lemons of unknown origin (probably Eurekas, don't think they're thorny enough to be Lisbon; one might possibly be a Meyer, no fruit on that one, yet) Melogold grapefruit Cocktail grapefruit Rio Red grapefruit Oro Blanco grapefruit Bearss Lime Pixie manadarin Algerian Clementine mandarin Gold Nugget mandarin Page mandarin I think I've probably got just about everything that interests me, and more than enough fruit for our little family, plus most of my neighborhood, lol! Hoping my Moro, Bearss and Pixie start doing something. The grapefruits are pushing out huge numbers of gigantic blossoms and have some fruit already setting. Apparently they really like their spot in the garden. They are up at the top of my back yard, north side, facing south, and very protected from north winds by my neighbor's house which is perched up higher than my house, plus a row of lovely olives on the west side, which help to break the prevailing ocean breeze (we're about 7 miles from the ocean, in a canyon that faces the ocean, pretty cool). If I have time, I'll snap some pics of my areas I have planted my various trees. Patty S.

Welcome to the neighborhood! Bahia is spon on about the water - plant for the future, which means a lush, floriforous and drought tolerant garden.. and a rather dramatic shift in how you approach gardening and watering. It isn't just a change in climate, but a whole mindset around what is possible.. and what not to do. First, determine your soil characteristics - you could have anything from clay/silt to sand - and determine your drainage - you could have none to a sieve. Managing water retention and good drainage makes the garden successful with the least amount of maintenance - I learned the hard way that it can't be bypassed. Drought tolerant doesn't mean gravel with a cactus - but it does take some thought. SD received less than 5" of rain this year, and the Colorado River water supply is very salty. You can get some great ideas from the fabulous public gardens, such as Quail Botanical in Encinitas, Balboa park, Wild Animal Park, Buena Creek Nursery's demo gardens, etc. I maintain a doc of all my plantings and my wish lists. If you want help planning or would like a copy, just drop me a line - I'm right up the road, and am happy to help. =^,,^= diana Here is a link that might be useful: jar test for soil

Erin, a few things right off the bat. Check the roots to see if you're dealing with rot rot. What potting soil do you have this little tree in? Secondly, 40 degrees is nothing for citrus, especially most mandarins (especially if it's a Satsuma variety, extremely cold tolerant). BUT, we did have temps below that recently, depending on where you are in relation to the coast. Where are you, exactly? I'm in Vista, about 6 miles inland, but up in the hills, so it's milder on my property, save for some cold pockets (my lot slopes downhill, north to south, so the south side of my lot is literally a hole that the cold air rolls down into and sinks - only 1 citrus tree down there and it's a variegated lemon that is holding its own, amazingly, right next to an avocado tree, also hanging in there!) I think you've probably got either a bad case of root rot, or some sort of extensive root damage. Can you not plant this poor little guy in the ground?? Here are the 3 main things that can cause catastrophic leaf drop (these come from the Univ. of Az Coop Extension, very helpful info and quite applicable to us in the San Diego area): 1. Over fertilization. Prevent by following fertilizer application instructions on the product. Treat by watering heavily to flush the fertilizer below the root zone. 2. Inappropriate watering strategy, too much, or not enough water: As a general rule citrus need a deep watering once a month in the winter and once a week in the summer (in ground suggestion, NOT for potted plants, it may be less frequently in the winter, unless we get Santa Anas, more frequently in the summer, especially if very hot. Use the "index finger" test to tell.) Apply water to the entire root zone, well out beyond the drip line. Apply enough water to wet the soil at least a foot below the surface. Check the depth of the irrigation with a long handled screw driver, you will only be able to push the screw driver as deep as the water has gone. 3. Citrus Mesophyll Collapse: Grapefruits are particularly susceptible but any citrus may be affected. It is not uncommon for grapefruit trees to be affected and other nearby citrus to be fine. Leaves and fruit of citrus trees dry up and drop. Stems and branches remain green and living. Rarely is the whole tree affected. Mesophyll collapse occurs when there are unseasonable weather changes. For example if it gets abnormally cold in October for several days and then heats back up above average temperature in November. This fluctuation stresses the trees as they kick into and out of and then back into their winter slow down. It is especially stressful after a dry summer. MANAGEMENT: Remove fallen fruit to prevent attracting fungal and bacterial diseases. Continue to water the tree on its normal cycle and it will leaf-out again in the spring. Do not prune out the defoliated branches until spring, and then only after the tree has completely leafed out. Adding this: Start fertilizing as SOON as you see any sign of leaf push. I had this happen to two of my in-ground grapefruit and was horrified. Was glad to know this was the cause. Happened last winter when we had all the cold, wet weather. Totally freaked out my lovely Rio Red grapefruit. And the owner. Patty S.

Texas, Rainbows End, Heartbreaker, Cupcake, Gizmo and the Sunblaze roses are by far the heartiest roses on your list for Inland San Diego County. A south facing exposer can get very hot during the summer depending on where you are located. I live up against the foothills north/east of El Cajon and potted roses do not do that well without some afternoon shade. Just a drop down shade (the roll up kind) will do the trick. If you provide your pots with some protection from the direct hot summer sun and lots of water (daily durning the summer) I think any of the roses on your list will do fine. BTW, When you plant roses in pots Do Not put a saucer under them! Letting them sit in standing water is a death sentence. Also the cheaper clay pots are also harmful. Pots should be glazed or heavy plastic. If you want to use unglazed pots then get them big enough to slip a plastic pot into. Its a good idea for wood planters also as they rot. If you get the outside pot large enough you can put mulch around the edges between the two pots. This will help keep moisture around the pot and help keep the roots cool that will eventually fill the pots. If you need protection from water run off on your patio then place an extra large deep saucer (atleast 2" deep) filled with gravel under your pots which will keep the pot from sitting in the water that has drained through. As for a potting soil I perfer the new Kellogs organic mix. Home Depot carries it and it is quite reasonable compared to other organic brands. What ever you use don't settle for a cheap all purpsoe brand if you want your rose to grow well and bloom for you.