Your front and back tests are more than close enough that you can fold them together in the future and just do one. The numbers are all in range of sampling differences. As such, I'm using the front numbers.

I'm going to guess from your locale that you have a southern grass (Bermuda, St. Aug, or the like) but please let me know. You only implied you were in Texas, and even so, extreme north Texas is compatible with some northern grasses. Also, something like centipede has entirely different requirements than the other two.

EC 12.9: Both of these are probably a little inflated by the excess calcium, but we'll run with it. Your soil is more likely silt than not, with possibly some sand, but you'd have to do the jar test (probably with some vinegar) to be sure.

pH 8.2: Always the symptom, never the disease, although this is quite high. It's no barrier to a great lawn, which is good because we aren't going to bring it down much, if at all. Sulfur is not very effective at altering soil pH when surface applied, and I doubt you want to till the whole soil to a depth of eight inches, mix in sulfur, and till again. Then replant. Besides, there's no need to do so.

OM 0.9%: Very poor, almost the lowest number I've ever seen, but not quite. Always mulch mow. Throw any organic you can get at this soil. Mulch all fall leaves. Steal your neighbors' fall leaves and mulch them. That sort of thing.

Sulfur 24: Good. We have some margin to work with, and I've got several recommendations.

Phosphorus 27: Off the charts low. Starter fertilizer is any fertilizer with a high second number, like 18-24-6 or 20-27-5. Purchase whatever's cheapest and my recommendations are below. My normal target is 200, but due to your high pH I'm trying to decide between 300 and 350 here. Your pH is binding up a lot of phosphorus. Application of starter fertilizer will nudge your pH down a hair. We won't finish the adjustment this year, but re-test your soil next spring for a new baseline.

Calcium 80%: Extremely high. Certainly never lime. Calcium isn't toxic at any level, so this isn't causing any problems except that the pH is high.

Magnesium 15%: Although this looks optimal, my bet is that it's actually extremely high due to the calcium inflating the EC calculation. Never lime, never use a magnesium source. This is unlikely to be a problem as the calcium competes with it.

Potassium 1.0%: Very low, just not quite as low as it looks due to the probably-inflated EC. Still, you need potassium. You can order potassium sulfate online (with shipping, it's expensive) or get it from most local landscapers or garden shops, who will order it for you (cheaper). Recommendations are below. We probably won't finish this year due to the high calcium, which competes with the potassium trying to bind up.

Sodium 1%: Completely normal. High Na is a toxin.

Most Minor Elements: Fine. Boron is a hair low, but I'm not inclined to adjust it this year (application of organic material will also raise this a touch). Copper could use a fair-sized tap, but ditto (and organics are usually copper-rich, relatively speaking). I've discussed iron and zinc below.

Zinc 0.9: Low, particularly for your pH. We use Milorganite as a carrier, just as we do with boron. In a wheelbarrow or the like, dump the Milo. Spraying very, very lightly with water (I use a spray bottle like the kind people use to damp their clothes when they iron) will help the zinc sulfate stick. Add the recommended amount of zinc and stir, spraying occasionally to get the stuff to stick to the Milo. Then apply over the recommended area. So for a touch over 5,000 square feet, you'd use 1 bag of Milo per 2,500 square feet, and 6.0 tablespoons of zinc sulfate per 2,500 square feet. You can get zinc sulfate here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Zinc-Sulfate-Monohydrate-Powder-35-5-Zn-2-Pounds/370418311221

Iron 101: Very low for your pH. You can apply Milorganite to the lawn at bag rate pretty much whenever you want (monthly or every other month is great) to slowly raise this. I have no target in mind, it's whenever the lawn holds a good green color without repeated applications of Milorganite. That depends on soil pH, grass type, grass cultivar, organic matter levels, and a ton of other things. You'll know when it's time to stop, the lawn will be a great color with or without the Milo.

Recommendations (for Bermuda or St. Aug):

Whenever you want: Apply organic fertilizer or grain meals at 10-20 pounds per thousand square feet. This includes Milorganite.

April 15, give or take: Apply 4 tablespoons of zinc sulfate per thousand square feet.

May 1: Feed with starter fertilizer at bag rate.

May 15: Apply 2 pounds of potassium sulfate per thousand square feet.

June 1: Feed with starter fertilizer at bag rate.

June 15: Apply 2 pounds of potassium sulfate per thousand square feet.

July 1: Feed with starter fertilizer at bag rate.

August 1: Use a high nitrogen, slow-release fertilizer at bag rate.

September 1: Feed with starter fertilizer at bag rate.

September 15: Apply 2 pounds of potassium sulfate per thousand square feet.

Thanks! Not as bad as I thought. Just needs some of the basics it looks like.

Yes, sorry forgot to mention location: Houston, Tx.

Grass: Bermuda Tif 419.

House is a new construction (2 years old) and I have not done anything to the lawn really. No O.M. has ever been applied and very little fertilizer.

One correction--the zinc sulfate is 10 tablespoons per bag of Milo, not 6. The target across the entire property is around 20 tablespoons. There's a lot of margin for error in there, so we'll probably end up tapping the zinc again next year before it settles into the range I want to see.

The test isn't that bad, really, and fairly typical of your area. There's not much you can do about the pH or calcium excess, although I had a few thoughts running around in my head as your calcium levels aren't in the ridiculous range. For this year, I'm content to see what the starter fertilizer does to it as phosphoric acid and ammonium-based nitrogen will both dispel calcium and lower pH.

Low OM is very typical of new (newish) construction. The tests I've seen that were this low or lower were generally new lawns. Mine came in at 0.5% when I started out.