This is interesting! Your soil has a bit of a split personality, so we have to treat the front and back differently. It happens sometimes, particularly on slopes, or where a lot of soil was brought in originally to create the grade. As to where the division lines are between the soils, that may or may not be clear. Just do the best you can. Where recommendations go on both the front and back, I've taken care to keep them together. Where they don't, the chips fall where they may. EC 14.5/21.1: Both are moderately heavy soils, and I'd expect a lot of silt in both. The back may include some clay, although I wouldn't expect a vast amount. Both soils hold a lot of resources (back more than front) and are more resistant to change than the average. pH: Always a symptom, never a cause. We'll deal with both individually under Ca, Mg, and K. Ultimately, your natural pH balance looks like it'll be a bit lower than what I tell most people--6.3 or so--but with an EC like that, I'm not terribly worked up about hitting it quickly because that won't happen. OM 3.4/5.0: Fair in the front, good in the back. Certainly mulch mow and consider organic feedings; although good is good, it isn't excellent. Higher levels of OM mean more water retention and less watering. Sulfur 6/11: Both are pretty normal, although the front is kind of trim. It doesn't matter as I've made recommendations below for a sulfate based potassium, which will boost sulfur levels a little bit. Neither is deficient. Phosphorus 111/279: The target for you is 200. The front is low, the back is great (the extra P simply gives you margin against usage and leaching). The recommendations are below. Calcium 71%/45%: A little high in the front (but nothing to worry about), but extremely low in the back. Recommendations below under the Back section. Magnesium 17%/12%: Both are fine and in the optimal range. No magnesium required or desired as it tightens soils (hence the calcitic lime recommendation below; cheap lime contains a lot of magnesium in addition to being slow, far less effective, and overall more expensive when you have to correct the problems). Potassium 0.7%/0.7%: Borderline deficient. Most garden stores or landscape shops will be glad to order potassium sulfate for you if you ask (or you can get it over the Internet but shipping is a killer). Recommendations below. Sodium 0.25%/0.25%: Perfect, Low sodium levels are desirable, even though this looks like it's off the normal scale. Most Minor Elements: Fine, except for boron and copper. I'm not inclined to adjust copper this year with everything else going down. Normally, I'd ignore boron this year as well, but in this case we can't. I've included a few words about iron below as well. Boron 0.23/<0.2: Deficient. We use Milorganite to apply this as the amounts are very small (0.2 PPM is 200 parts per billion). Target is 0.7 PPM. In a wheelbarrow or something like, and adjusting for your 1600 square feet, dump a full bag of Milorganite. Add 4.5 tablespoons of 20 Mule Team Borax (laundry section of your grocery store) to the Milo. Spray very lightly with water as from a hand-held spray bottle (the hose even on light spray will wet it too much). Mix. Spray occasionally to damp the Milorganite and make the 20 Mules stick. Keep mixing. Apply the entire bag to your 1,600 square feet by setting your spreader low and criss-crossing several times. The Milorganite will also give you a nice boost of iron--making the lawn greener--and a nice gentle feeding with organic nitrogen. Iron: 175/201: Both are fine, definitely not deficient, but may not produce the best color in the lawn--particularly in the back as the calcium and potassium hit. At any time you like, you can apply Milorganite at bag rate (your full lawn will use about 2/3 of a bag) to gently feed your lawn and apply iron for deeper color. Front Recommendations (fescue): May 1: Apply 3 pounds potassium sulfate per thousand square feet. May 15th: Apply any starter fertilizer (high second number like 18-24-6) at the bag rate. June 1: Follow the above prescription for boron. September 1: Apply any starter fertilizer at the bag rate. September 15: Apply 3 pounds potassium sulfate per thousand square feet. October 1: Apply any starter fertilizer at the bag rate. Follow the above prescription a second time for boron. Growth Stoppage: Apply any high nitrogen fertilizer at the bag rate (don't use starter at this time). The date on this varies, but is usually November 15 give or take a lot. Back Recommendations (Bermuda): General: Bermuda should be fed monthly throughout the growing season with a high-nitrogen fertilizer. That won't interact with anything except the calcium (plus potassium to a lesser extent, but I'm not worried about that). Try to leave at least 1 good rainfall (or irrigation) and 2 weeks between feeding and calcium. April 15: Apply Mag-I-Cal or Encap calcitic lime at 5 pounds per thousand square feet; don't buy cheap lime as it's ineffective and will mis-balance magnesium levels. May 1: Apply 3 pounds potassium sulfate per thousand square feet. June 1: Follow the above prescription for boron. September 15: Apply 3 pounds potassium sulfate per thousand square feet. October 1: Follow the above prescription a second time for boron. October 15: Apply Mag-I-Cal or Encap calcitic lime at 4 pounds per thousand.

The Total Exchange Capacity (M. E.) is another way of expressing the Cation Exchange Capacity or the ability of a soil to transfer nutrients, moisture, etc. Perhaps this link will help explain that for you. http://soilminerals.com/Cation_Exchange_Simplified.htm Soil organic matter is a bit low. While 5 percent is not bad many of us organic growers prefer something in the 6 to 8 percent range. Calcium is a bit low and Magnesium is a bit high and that means the Calcium to Magnesium ratio is out of kilter. Phosphorus is about where it should be (25 to 85 ppm, divide pounds per acre by 2 to get ppm) while Potassium is a bit low. If Logan Labs does not provide recommendations to correct any deficiencies perhaps your county horticulturist at the Purdue Cooperative Extension Office may. It is too bad that Purdue no longer does soil testing. I have heard that the University of Kentucky would soil test for people in Indiana. kimmq is kimmsr

The soil pH for citrus trees (Oranges) is in the 6.0 to 7.0 range, slightly acidic to neutral and at a soil pH of 6.9 yours is there, but the amount of organic matter in the soil is a bit low at 4.4 percent. Phosphorus (P) is quite high while Potassium (K) is about right as is Calcium and Magnesium. How well does the soil this tree is planted in drain? What does this soil smell like? What kind of life (earthworms, etc.) is in that soil? How well does the soil retain moisture? Perhaps these simple soil tests may help, 1) Soil test for organic material. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains’ too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell, to a point. Too much organic matter can be bad as well. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. My experience is that Logan Labs does not offer much help beyond the basic soil test but you might take it to your local office of the University of California Cooperative Extension Service where they may be of more help. kimmq is kimmsr

Even if it's an acre, you can do it far cheaper yourself (if with a lot of work)... Your soil's actually in fairly good shape, although I do aim for perfection (you did, after all, pay for the test so I assume you want soil in the perfect groove). ME 5.1: Prob'ly a very sandy soil that doesn't hold a lot of resources. It'll drift pretty fast, so testing every other year once stabilized will be a good idea. pH 6.0: Textbook, a little low, but nothing severe and we'll fix this under calcium, magnesium, and (a little) potassium. OM 4.3%: Well into the Good range, although with your low ME soil, I'd always mulch mow, mow all fall leaves, steal neighbors' leaves who don't mulch them, and consider feeding organically. The higher this goes, the more water your soil will hold, and the higher the effective ME becomes. Sulfur 18: Optimal. Phosphorus 876: Extremely high. You don't need starter when you seed, and I'd avoid phosphorus sources as much as possible when feeding anything. This will support a tightly-packed annual garden easily, and that's saying something. Calcium 61.1%: A little low for a low-ME soil, and what's setting off your lower pH. Technically, it's just barely in the optimal range, but I'd raise this a bit. We use Encap, Mag-I-Cal, or Pennington Fast Lime to do this as these limes work faster, don't add elements I don't want or need to add, and tend to be cheaper per thousand square feet than supposedly "cheap" limes. Recommendations below. Magnesium 13.6%: It looks optimal, but your slightly low Ca levels are enhancing this. Still, let's ignore this for 2016, it certainly isn't a problem at this moment. Potassium 2.7%: Like magnesium, this is a little enhanced by lower Ca levels than I'd like to see. This is optional this year, but I'd do this if it were my soil. We use potassium sulfate (sulfate of potash) to fix this, which you can get from some garden or landscape stores, or they'll order it for you. Get the granular, it's easier to apply. Sodium 2.2%: Textbook, this is very high. However, your low ME soil won't hold much and total soil amounts are low. Calcium and potassium sulfate will dispel some of this, and one reason I don't want to put off the potassium application. Minor Elements: All are fine, except boron. Boron 0.21: This is borderline at the lowest level before deficiency. While not the most important element, I'll always work to move your lawn into the most optimal range on everything. Me? I'd fix this. We use Milorganite as a carrier and 20 Mule Team Borax as the boron source. You can purchase 20 Mules at the grocery store in the laundry section. In a wheelbarrow or the like, dump the Milo. Spraying very, very lightly with water (I use a spray bottle like the kind people use to damp their clothes when they iron) will help the boron stick. Add the recommended amount of 20 Mule Team Borax and stir, spraying occasionally to get the stuff to stick to the Milo. Then apply over the recommended area. So if going for bag rate Milorganite (1 bag per 2,500 square feet), you'd add 10 tablespoons of 20 Mule Team Borax. Recommendations: Now: Apply 3 pounds per thousand square feet of Encap, Mag-I-Cal, or Pennington Fast Lime. September 1: (Optional but Recommended) Apply 2 pounds of potassium sulfate per thousand square feet. September 15: Apply 4 tablespoons of 20 Mule Team Borax per thousand square feet. October 15: Apply 4 pounds per thousand square feet of Encap, Mag-I-Cal, or Pennington Fast Lime.