1) Technically, after the third mow...which will be a while. That'll be too late for most pre-emergents to catch spring weeds. You could use Tupersan (Siduron) in spring when the forsythia bloom, however. It won't impact the grass, but it only lasts about a month and doesn't have an extremely wide umbrella of what it stops from sprouting. 2) March or April 2016 is great if you want. Done much later, any adjustments will generally have to wait for fall (I really dislike stressing summer lawns). 3) It depends on your locale. That's not completely unreasonable, but I would continue to look around to see if I can find it cheaper. See 4 and 5 below. 4) I paid $14.25 per 50 pounds this year...in eastern Pennsylvania, which is soybean and corn country (as in there's acres of soybean and corn within spitting distance of my house). I also use a grain mill way out in the boondocks, so prices tend to be a little cheaper just because of that. 5) Not necessarily. While corn once a year is a help in terms of a gentle fungus protection (and to diversify the microbes a bit), sticking with Milo isn't a problem if it's cheaper for you. My heavy hitter is soybean meal due to the low cost locally--it beats Milo's price by a mile. If it were the other way around, I'd use Milo instead. Rough app levels are as follows (#/K = pounds per thousand square feet because I'm lazy): Alfalfa: 10-20#/K (the limiter here is the growth hormones, not the nitrogen...this is a weak nitrogen feed, but a good addition in early September to encourage root growth). Corn: 10-65#/K. The lower end helps with fungal protection, the upper end actually provides a feeding for the lawn, and there's no problem using corn at this level--except for the expense, of course. 65#/K delivers about 1 pound of nitrogen. Cottonseed Meal: 15#/K. It's difficult to get up north, but the southerner's equivalent to soybean meal. Milorganite: 20#/K. This is higher than bag rate, but will provide 1#/K of N. This is also rich in iron and contains both fast and slow nitrogen, making it a great pick-me-up for the lawn in addition to feeding it over the long term. Oats, Rice Hulls, Most Other Random Grainy Stuff: 50#/K. Most grains will be around 2% nitrogen (about 14% protein) and are applied at 50#/K to feed at 1#/K of N. They can certainly be applied at lower rates to help organically condition a soil if you wish. Soybean Meal: 15#/K. My personal staple. This provides 1#/K of N.

Got it! Um, what's the condition of this lawn? The numbers are a little conflicted, but if you made me guess about the grass, I'd say pretty poor. EC 6.1: You don't have red clay, you have red sand with some red silt. :-) No, really, this EC is completely inconsistent with significant clay, although you could have some of the lightest, lowest-EC clays. Even so, you don't have a lot of them. Try the free at-home jar test (which I or somebody else will read) to verify this if you like. The reason it acts like clay is detailed below--all soils are tight, impenetrable, and puddly under some circumstances, and boy, do you have those circumstances. pH 5.9: Always a symptom, never a disease, and this isn't much of a symptom anyway. It's just a bit below optimal and we're going to fix that. More below under calcium, magnesium, and potassium. OM 4.0%: Right at the extreme top of the Fair range. Given your lower EC, I'd always mulch mow the lawn, mow in all your fall leaves, and seriously consider importing leaves off the curbside from surrounding properties. This isn't an extreme emergency or anything like that, but the raised OM will increase water retention, improve your soil biology, loosen the soil for you (and keep it that way), and generally nurture the roots of your lawn (and anything else you have). Sulfur 27: A good answer, with a bit less margin than I generally see, but that's not a problem here. I don't need any significant margin since I'm not using sulfate-based chemistry. Phosphorus 25: Extremely low, and a severe hit to lawn quality. Target here will be 200--eight times more than you currently have. We use starter fertilizer, the cheapest stuff off the shelf you can get. Recommendations below. Calcium 43.1%: Extremely low. Target here would be around 60-65% (modified by the magnesium). For this, we have to use calcitic lime--Encap, Mag-I-Cal, or Pennington Fast Lime. Cheaper limes contain too much magnesium, work too slowly, and require far more per unit area. Recommendations below, and we aren't going to finish this in one year. Magnesium 24.5%: Extremely high, but not as bad as it looks. Some of this saturation level is the low level of calcium in the soil, and it'll naturally drop a little as calcium flows in. High levels of magnesium make for impenetrable soils that cling together. Target for your soil would be around 12%. Potassium 6.14%: A bit high, but certainly not a problem--I like a little extra potassium in a soil for resistance to cold, heat, insects, and disease. This will naturally drop a little as the calcium flows in. Sodium 2.7%: A bit high, but the calcium will dispel this and drive a little out of the soil. If it stays high once calcium levels start to come up, we'll probably want to dispel the sodium directly. This isn't going to be a problem for the Bermuda, but it'll shift your pH upward without adding any advantage to your lawn. Sodium is toxic in larger amounts and only used in tiny amounts by plants. Minor Elements: Most are perfect. I do mention boron (deficient) and iron (low) below. Boron <0.2: Deficient, which isn't great for the lawn (quite bad, in fact; boron is used for photosynthesis and also for meristem development into functional adult cells). We use Milorganite as a carrier and 20 Mule Team Borax as the boron source. You can purchase 20 Mules at the grocery store in the laundry section. In a wheelbarrow or the like, dump the Milo. Spraying very, very lightly with water (I use a spray bottle like the kind people use to damp their clothes when they iron) will help the boron stick. Add the recommended amount of 20 Mule Team Borax and stir, spraying occasionally to get the stuff to stick to the Milo. Then apply over the recommended area. So if going for 1 bag usage over your lawn (1 bag per 2,000 square feet), you'd add 8 tablespoons of 20 Mule Team Borax. Iron 84: Not deficient, but not going to produce fantastic color, particularly as the pH rises and calcium levels come up to normal. Whenever you like, you can feed the lawn with Milorganite (it won't interact with or cause any overfeeding problems with the starter) to slowly raise this. Recommendations: Note: The starter will adequately feed your Bermuda through the season, but you may wish to tap in a little extra nitrogen. 0.2 lbs per thousand square feet per month wouldn't be a problem if you wish to do it (synthetically). The sky's the limit organically. September 1: Apply starter fertilizer at bag rate. September 15: Apply 6 pounds per thousand square feet Encap, Mag-I-Cal, or Pennington Fast Lime. October 1: Apply starter fertilizer at bag rate. October 15: Apply 4 tablespoons of 20 Mule Team Borax in 1/2 bag of Milorganite over 1,000 square feet--or, in other words, 8 tablespoons 20 Mules in 1 bag of Milo over your entire lawn. April 1, 2016: Apply 6 pounds per thousand square feet Encap, Mag-I-Cal, or Pennington Fast Lime. May 1, 2016: Apply starter fertilizer at bag rate. June 1, 2016: Apply starter fertilizer at bag rate. July 1, 2016: Apply starter fertilizer at bag rate. July 15, 2016: Apply 6 pounds per thousand square feet Encap, Mag-I-Cal, or Pennington Fast Lime. August 1, 2016: Time for a re-test!

I really don't like their recommendations for a number of reasons. One, sulfur doesn't work. Surface applied, you'll lose three quarters to outgassing to the atmosphere as sulfur dioxide (smog), so thanks for the air pollution. :-) They also recommend some rather difficult or expensive sources (11-52-0, for example). I have monoammonium phosphate on hand. You almost certainly don't. And so on. The zinc and copper aren't necessary, both levels are perfectly reasonable in your soil. In the below, I've assumed you have a northern lawn. If that's incorrect, this will still work, but southern lawns would benefit from a slightly different schedule. ME 22.9: This is a little overinflated by your excess calcium, which results in an ME that's somewhat high. I'm using a standard of 15 for soil applications as it's safe to do so. pH 7.6: Kind of high, but get used to it. There's not terribly much you can do about it (as mentioned, surface applied sulfur does not work very well). Fortunately, lawns are extremely tolerant of a pH in this range, although color will suffer a bit. OM 5.5%: In the Good range, so no specific work needs to be done here. Sulfur 13: Well within normal range. Phosphorus 147: While a bit low, it's nothing extreme and unlikely to be causing much in the way of visible problems. Still, with your pH, I'd really prefer this to be in the 260 range (higher pH levels inhibit phosphorus release). We use good old-fashioned starter fertilizer to do this--just get the cheapest as they all work the same. Recommendations below. Calcium 80.8%: High, but not a problem, and almost impossible to dispel. Certainly avoid any calcium sources. Magnesium 12.9%: On paper, a tad low. In reality, it's just fine--your very high Ca levels are masking some of the Mg in your soil. Your plants have no trouble getting all the magnesium they need, and then some. Don't add more. Potassium 1.8%: This is short on paper, and looks shorter in the soil than it really is. It should be enhanced, but not quite to the levels their recommendations listed. We use potassium sulfate (sulfate of potash) for this, which some garden stores and landscape places carry--or they'll order it for you. Recommendations below. Minor Elements: Fine, but I do mention iron and boron below. Iron 110: Just fine and not a problem, but it won't produce the best color at a pH of 7.6. Whenever you like, you can apply Milorganite at the bag rate to very slowly raise this. Boron 0.55: A tad low. This won't be an issue, but I would like to correct it. We use Milorganite as a carrier and 20 Mule Team Borax as the boron source. You can purchase 20 Mules at the grocery store in the laundry section. In a wheelbarrow or the like, dump the Milo. Spraying very, very lightly with water (I use a spray bottle like the kind people use to damp their clothes when they iron) will help the boron stick. Add the recommended amount of 20 Mule Team Borax and stir, spraying occasionally to get the stuff to stick to the Milo. Then apply over the recommended area. So if going for bag rate Milorganite (1 bag per 2,500 square feet), you'd add 7.5 tablespoons of 20 Mule Team Borax. Recommendations: May 10: Apply 3 pounds of potassium sulfate per thousand square feet. Memorial Day: Feed the lawn with starter fertilizer at the bag rate. June 15: Apply 3 tablespoons per thousand square feet (not a misprint!) of 20 Mule Team Borax. Labor Day: Feed the lawn with starter fertilizer at the bag rate. October 1: Feed the lawn with starter fertilizer at the bag rate. October 15: Apply 2 pounds of potassium sulfate per thousand square feet.

I'm losing my mind over here, and I've read a report for you before, I think. So I'll give you the compressed read (or, just what needs changing). If I'm wrong, let me know and I'll do the full read. Some of your numbers are kicked around because of your excess calcium, which tends to make things read incorrectly by a bit. I'm correcting for that. Phosphorus 57: Very low. In your case, my target would be 240 or so. We use starter fertilizer to fix this, and just get the cheapest. They all work the same. I folded in an extra feeding in June, you're pretty low. Potassium 0.9%: Not as low as it looks, but still pretty low. We use potassium sulfate (sulfate of potash) to fix this, which you can get from some garden or landscape stores, or they'll order it for you. Minor Elements: All except boron and iron are fine. I mention those below. Iron 115: Low for good color at your pH, but not a problem. Whenever you like, you can use Milorganite to very slowly raise this. Boron <0.2: Deficient. We use Milorganite as a carrier and 20 Mule Team Borax as the boron source. You can purchase 20 Mules at the grocery store in the laundry section. In a wheelbarrow or the like, dump the Milo. Spraying very, very lightly with water (I use a spray bottle like the kind people use to damp their clothes when they iron) will help the boron stick. Add the recommended amount of 20 Mule Team Borax and stir, spraying occasionally to get the stuff to stick to the Milo. Then apply over the recommended area. So if going for bag rate Milorganite (1 bag per 2,500 square feet), you'd add 12.5 tablespoons of 20 Mule Team Borax. Recommendations: Now: Feed with starter fertilizer at the bag rate. May 25: Apply 3 pounds per thousand square feet of potassium sulfate. Apply 5 tablespoons of 20 Mule Team Borax per thousand square feet. June 15: Feed with starter fertilizer at the bag rate. September 1: Feed with starter fertilizer at the bag rate. September 15: Apply 3 pounds per thousand square feet of potassium sulfate. October 1: Feed with starter fertilizer at the bag rate.