A Fig-leaf for Books?
11 years ago
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- 11 years ago
- 11 years ago
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Ficus lyrata / fiddle leaf fig leaf peoblem
Comments (4)Hi Dave. I took the plant from a 4" plastic nursery pot & put entire root ball with all existing dirt into a 5" clay pot. Did not remove any of original dirt. In the half inch around outer part of pot I added 'Fafard complete potting mix' for flowering, foliage, tropical plants. Breakdown: total nitrogen 0.09% (from ammoniacal, nitrate, water soluble, & urea nitrogen), available phosphate 0.04%, & soluble potash 0.06%. In the soil I added a small pinch of vermiculite mixed thoroughly. Less than 1/4 teaspoon. To help with drainage. I watered after putting in new pot with the small amount of additional new soil. Before that it had been about a week prior since watering. The FLF has been housed in a southeastern corner room with a ceiling fan on low. It would completely dry out the soil in about 5-7 days in that small plastic pot. The fan has been helpful for other plants in that room. After the pot change Friday, I did move it to an upstairs southern facing window where it remained for the weekend until today. It would have had a bit more direct sun for sure through that window. :/ I hope these details are helpful. I appreciate your time and any insight. I am devestated. As an avid indoor gardener, I'm heartbroken to see this and think that I've caused it....See MoreFiddle Leaf Fig (Ficus Lyrata) leaf issues
Comments (11)You're using the dowel correctly. Water when it first comes out dry. I will begin fertilizing per your recommendations--additional info to ensure I am using a good fertilizing regimen would be helpful. I'm not sure how often I should fertilize, and how that will change when the plants go dormant, and when that may be...I would expect that in October they would be at the end of their growing season, but they have both put out two new leaves in the last few weeks. They won't go completely dormant, but they will become largely quiescent or at rest but growing slowly. How fast they grow depends primarily on light levels, temperatures, and nutrition. If you invest in a container of Foliage-Pro 9-3-6, you won't need anything else. Did you read the link I left above about how to deal with water-retentive soils? My plan would be to flush the soil thoroughly asap, then fertilize with a full recommended solution of the FP 9-3-6. It makes more sense by far to tie your fertilizing frequency to your watering frequency. If you continue to water in sips for the winter, flush the soil every 6th time you water and fertilize right after with a full recommended dose. Using a full dose when the soil is still saturated means there won't be a full strength concentration in the soil solution because of all the water already in the soil. People that simply recite the advice that you shouldn't fertilize in winter usually tell you that the plant doesn't need fertilizer because it's not growing, but nutrients are used by the plant to keep its systems orderly and do more than grow, so your plant needs a full compliment of nutrients in the soil all year long. The plan I just laid out will help you maintain the proper ratio of nutrients at an appropriate concentration and prevent the ratio of nutrients (each to the others) from becoming out of balance, which can very quickly become a serious issue if you're watering in sips. More on flushing the soil if you actually plan on following that advice. You'll also find plenty of good info that will help turn your plant around if you follow the link. Speaking of, the plant that put out the deformed leaf is now producing leaves with holes...at first I feared it was pests, but it looks like they are just developing with holes in them. Would this be caused by the same water/fertilizing issues we've discussed? Very commonly, dry air causes a leaf of F lyrata to stick to itself before it unfurls. As the leaf opens, the 'stuck together' part often tears, leaving split leaves, or if the entire piece of tissue that's stuck to another part of the leaf's surface pulls free - a hole. This is very common in leaves that unfurl in winter when humidity is VERY low or in leaves that are in a cool, air-conditioned environment - especially if the cooled air blows over the plant. There are some nutritional issues that can cause weak or dead spots in the tissues of young leaves, but getting on a sound fertilizing schedule should put a stop to that. Al...See MoreHelp for Fiddle Leaf Fig- spider mites and leaf drop
Comments (4)Thank you so much for responding (and for talking me off the ledge!) Sorry I wasn't being clear...I have not yet repotted and was waiting until June to do so. I haven't examined the soil closely, but once when I was lifting/transporting the tree to water it, the pot just fell off the plant onto to the ground. it did make some mess but the potting medium pretty much held together in the shape of the pot. So, I'd say at least "old" if not "bad" soil? Should I look at the roots more closely and if so, what am I looking for? (And what would I do if I found it?) If this guy does survive, I will summon up the courage to repot hopefully in Al's 5:1:1 in June if I can manage to find all the right ingredients (been working on that for some time.) Very nervous to repot something this size. I did spray all the other bigger plants in the house and will now do the rest of them (and this one) once a week...thank you! I knew they traveled from plant to plant....but, hitch a ride on me? I might never sleep again knowing that...lol. Also, I haven't fertilized at all--I know I've read somewhere on this Forum that it's good to do a weaker Foliage Pro all year(?) but I wasn't sure if I should just initiate that at this time of year--even at a weaker strength, much less when the plant is stressed? I'm thinking I should wait for new growth to start fertilizing? Thank you, thank you for taking the time to help!!!!...See MorePropagating Fiddle Leaf Fig Leaf
Comments (17)Personally, I'd use a soil drench made with 1.47% Imidacloprid at the rate of 1 tsp/ quart (or liter) of water. It should provide immediate 100% knockdown, and will persist in the soil for quite a while. It works systemically in the plant, so should keep your plant free of predators like scale, mealybug, thrips, …………… . If you are unable to maintain your plants' root systems in a state of high vitality (good health), a healthy plant is only something you can wish for. To a large degree, your ability to provide a healthy environment for roots depends on your choice of soil; not to mention that an appropriate soil, one that allows you to water correctly w/o the plant having to pay the price exacted by a soil that remains soggy for extended periods, makes your job as a grower much easier across the board. If you like, I can provide a link to a thread that explains how water behaves in container soils. Gaining an understanding of the concept it outlines is almost certainly the largest step forward a container gardener can take at any one time. Al...See More- 11 years ago
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