Propagating Fiddle Leaf Fig Leaf
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5 years ago
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Dave
5 years agoUser
5 years agoRelated Discussions
Fiddle Leaf Fig Leaf Loss, Recovery and Growth
Comments (11)After spending half an hour on the following post it occurred to me that a houseplant forum search for "nicking" might yield more accurate information. Sure enough, I found several threads containing Al's explanations, but I spent so much time on mine that I refuse to delete it!!!!! Here are a few of the threads. The nicking discussions aren't long but I think Al's post on the first link explains the effects of nicking vs pruning. Use the search box at the top of the page to find even more threads. http://forums2.gardenweb.com/discussions/1458989/fiddle-leaf-fig-question?n=1 http://forums2.gardenweb.com/discussions/1465570/pruning-ficus-lyrata-to-branch?n=24 ******************* My now-superfluous post: Ah, I see; most people seem to call that nicking, not slitting. The reason you haven't found info on it is that few people do it, but Al has gone into it the few times he's been asked. I'll describe it as best I can from what I remember of his posts about it. Anyway, you would use a sharp sterilized (just in case) knife to cut a small horizontal wedge through the cambium (basically the living usually green layer under the bark) right above a leaf node. Nicking (or pruning) above a node stops the inhibitory hormone from the top of the tree from reaching it, letting it respond to hormones that direct it to grow. The same thing happens when you prune. Whether you prune or nick, the amount of back-budding you'll get depends on the plant's condition. IMO, if the stress that caused your ficus to drop leaves still exists, nicking or pruning won't have much (if any) effect so long as the plant is still under the stress that made it drop so many leaves. I'd guess that's because the weakened plant isn't producing the hormones that would stimulate growth above ground. That's been my experience. My ficuses didn't respond at all to tip-pinching last fall when they were still weak, but now after months of proper care and increased spring sunlight they're growing like crazy, including a lot of back-budding far back on its once-bare branches, without any intervention at all from me. I think that's an accurate description of what I've read!...See MoreTop leaf/ branch broken off of my fiddle leaf fig.
Comments (5)Hi Heather, don’t worry your fiddle leaf fig looks fine. Many people would prune their FLF in just this manner to encourage it to branch from the top. Sometimes it takes awhile for new branches to start to grow from the top and plenty of bright light will help it do so quicker. (More often then not you should probably get 2 new branches from the top). Pruning would usually be done in Spring/Summer while the plant is showing active growth. If you’re growing season is coming to an end you may not see new growth/branching from this area until next Spring. Sometimes fiddle leaf figs are stubborn....just like children. Lol Don’t worry too much as your FLF looks nice and healthy. I actually love the way yours looks right now. Happy growing :)...See MoreFiddle leaf fig propagation - I'm a root killer
Comments (30)As plants grow, they produce a regular pattern of meriSTEMatic areas (think of STEM cells, which are cells that can differentiate into specialized tissues to form an organ [leaves, roots, stems]). In order for a propagule to become a plant with all of it's organs, the propagule must be able to form adventitious roots, and there is very wide variation plants' ability to do that, both genetically and physiologically. Second, the propagule must have a bud or be able to form adventitious buds, which would be buds that are not the terminal bud, buds that occur at nodes, or dormant buds in leaf axils. Adventitious buds are formed spontaneously (de novo, or anew) in random locations on the propagule's stem. So, when a propagule doesn't HAVE a bud, it must be able to form an adventitious bud, which requires developed cells to dedifferentiate, then redifferentiate into a meristematic growing area, from which any of the plant's organs can be formed, based on cultural (light/ moisture/ temperature ...... levels) and chemical (growth regulators/ hormones) stimuli. In the case of Ficus, propagules without buds are capable of forming adventitious roots, but not adventitious buds; so, while leaf cuttings with the leaf stem (petiole) attached can form roots, it cannot form that 3rd organ necessary to make it a complete plant - the stem. When it comes to leaf cuttings, some plants have preformed primary meristems on the leaves, often referred to as 'foliar embryos' - like Bryophyllum pinnatum. Other plants, like Begonia, produce wound-induced secondary meristems that arise from the process of dedifferentiation of groups of cells and their redifferentiation into a meristematic region which can then give rise to any of the plant organs, something Ficus is incapable of. I hope that wasn't too complicated ........ and was helpful. Al...See MorePropagate fiddle leaf fig branches and pinch their buds at same time?
Comments (3)Internodes grown under conditions of photosaturation (occurs when the plant is getting more light than it can use, but not enough to produce harmful oxidase) can be as little as 1/10 the length of internodes grown under low light conditions commonly found indoors during winter. As a member of the bonsai community, I can say that all experienced practitioners use a number of strategies to ensure their plants are as full and compact as can bee; this, because it makes for a much more attractive plant. Pruning the lanky late fall/ winter/ early spring growth ensures that all internodes retained on your tree will be as short as possible. Not only does this make for a nicer looking plant in the immediate, it affects spacing of branches whenever the plant is pushed to back-bud. IOW, since almost all back-budding in F lyrata occurs in leaf axils (crotch formed by leaf stem and the branch it's attached to) or immediately above leaf/bundle scars (the scar left on the branch when a leaf is shed), the length of long forgotten internodes comes into play any time you use rejuvenating pruning techniques. My experience has been, growers are at first thrilled when they find themselves able to keep their plants alive and healthy. During this phase of their development, pruning and root pruning is somewhere in the near vicinity of 'unthinkable'. "Nuh uh man! That tree grew it and I ain't taking anything off it grew because I'm afraid I might kill it." Somewhere down the road, the grower wants a greater challenge. It's often found in learning new techniques that help to keep plants looking healthy AND attractive. Having arrived at that stage, it becomes apparent the plant is not a good manager of its energy flow. It sends energy to areas that ensure it remains healthy, very often at the expense of appearance. Pruning forces your tree to allot energy to areas that would otherwise be ignored until shedding takes place. That's why, after a while, most lower branches are shed and more than 75% of existing growth and new growth is found in the upper 1/3 of the indoor tree. Had the top heavy trees been pruned appropriately, so the top 1/3 doesn't hog 2/3 of the energy allotted, and so light could penetrate the canopy to stimulate back-budding, the tree wouldn't require anything in the way of drastic pruning. No matter what, as your tree lives on, you'll need to prune it. You might as well set in motion a plan that has you working WITH the tree instead of against its natural rhythms. The tree will be better for it, and you'll get more personal satisfaction because you'll be a better nurturer. Al...See MoreDave
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5 years agolast modified: 5 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
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5 years agolast modified: 5 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
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