If I understand your question, the answer is - it doesn't matter. The growing end of a branch or stem is the apex or apical meristem. If that remains intact on the propagule you intend to clone, you have what is referred to as a tip cutting. In the case of F lyrata, a tip cutting is apt to grow quite long before it starts branching on its own; BUT, favorable cultural conditions can trump that tendency - just as they can in fully established plants.

If you remove (pinch) the apex/apical meristem, you have what is called an internodal cutting. After an internodal cutting strikes (grows roots), you're most apt to get a plant with several stems. So, if you want a multi-trunked shrubby tree, go internodal. If you want a tall single trunk, go tip cutting.

If you want to help ensure success, there are things you can do to what will become a propagule while it's still attached to the tree that will predispose it to forming roots much faster/more readily. Or, you could simply air layer branches the length of which you want to reduce. I agree your tree is well out of bounds and would benefit from being brought back in bounds. Once you prune, if you start pinching religiously, you'll be very surprised how quickly you can double, triple, quadruple the number of branches and leaves. If you're pinching effectively, the only pruning you should need to do would be to remove all growth that occurs in the fall/ winter/ early spring months in June, then resume pinching for the summer/early fall; then, stop pinching until the following June.

Al

Thank you so much for the informative response, very helpful! I went ahead and gave it a haircut and pinched the buds on the cuttings before potting them. I might try air layering next year, looks interesting! Everything is still alive so far so hopefully its all a success.

Why do you suggest pruning the off-season growth?

Internodes grown under conditions of photosaturation (occurs when the plant is getting more light than it can use, but not enough to produce harmful oxidase) can be as little as 1/10 the length of internodes grown under low light conditions commonly found indoors during winter. As a member of the bonsai community, I can say that all experienced practitioners use a number of strategies to ensure their plants are as full and compact as can bee; this, because it makes for a much more attractive plant. Pruning the lanky late fall/ winter/ early spring growth ensures that all internodes retained on your tree will be as short as possible. Not only does this make for a nicer looking plant in the immediate, it affects spacing of branches whenever the plant is pushed to back-bud. IOW, since almost all back-budding in F lyrata occurs in leaf axils (crotch formed by leaf stem and the branch it's attached to) or immediately above leaf/bundle scars (the scar left on the branch when a leaf is shed), the length of long forgotten internodes comes into play any time you use rejuvenating pruning techniques.

My experience has been, growers are at first thrilled when they find themselves able to keep their plants alive and healthy. During this phase of their development, pruning and root pruning is somewhere in the near vicinity of 'unthinkable'. "Nuh uh man! That tree grew it and I ain't taking anything off it grew because I'm afraid I might kill it." Somewhere down the road, the grower wants a greater challenge. It's often found in learning new techniques that help to keep plants looking healthy AND attractive. Having arrived at that stage, it becomes apparent the plant is not a good manager of its energy flow. It sends energy to areas that ensure it remains healthy, very often at the expense of appearance. Pruning forces your tree to allot energy to areas that would otherwise be ignored until shedding takes place. That's why, after a while, most lower branches are shed and more than 75% of existing growth and new growth is found in the upper 1/3 of the indoor tree. Had the top heavy trees been pruned appropriately, so the top 1/3 doesn't hog 2/3 of the energy allotted, and so light could penetrate the canopy to stimulate back-budding, the tree wouldn't require anything in the way of drastic pruning.

No matter what, as your tree lives on, you'll need to prune it. You might as well set in motion a plan that has you working WITH the tree instead of against its natural rhythms. The tree will be better for it, and you'll get more personal satisfaction because you'll be a better nurturer.

Al