Plant roots behave differently within the confines of a container than they do when planted in the soil. You CAN use a deeper container, as long as the potting medium is very porous. John is describing, correctly, how plant roots develop when properly planted outside. As soon as the roots hit the sides of a container however, they'll seek 'accomodations' elsewhere...and DOWN is a good direction to go as long as roots have access to oxygen. That, by the way, is a primary reason why root systems in the ground stay close to the surface...oxygen. Evapotranspiration is the term for the combined loss of water from plant surfaces (transpiration occurs from leaves) PLUS evaporation from the soil surface. In the case of clay containers, evaporation occurs from the top of the planting medium as well as through sides of the containers. Evaporative cooling can occur, but it has never been anything that I've been concerned about...at least not any more than other containers. Conductive cooling can be a problem for plants, as well. Taking care of the root systems of our containerized plants can be something to think about for sensitive plants, whether grown in plastic (or other non porous material) or clay. I much prefer to use clay pots, as I feel that the benefits of oxygen infusion and moisture evaporation far exceeds any issues with evaporative cooling. Of course, I am speaking from the south! The benefits of evaporative cooling are very important in the long hot days and nights of a spring/summer/fall. Speaking of cool temperatures...that's just one more reason to be patient about your plant's recovery. Though you've used a good fertilizer, plants are slow to absorb and utilize elements when it's cold. In a native soil system, dissolved nutrients remain locked in the soil and aren't even available to uptake until it warms up.

Yovan, one of the two cuttings did not make it, mostly my fault learning. The other cutting is doing very well. No where near the size it should be. I neglected it for 1.5-2 years due to countless life obligations that I could not get away from. June/2017 it was in such bad shape every leaf was curled and dried up to a crisp from not being watered for over a month in very hot temps. My family and I were forced to vacate our home due to an asbestos contamination and were unable to return. When i finally was able to retrieve my tree's and did my best to bring it back and have been taking overly good care of it since. It has completely come back to life, dropped all its old leaves and has grown all new and some. We are now in a new home and I am hoping this spring it will take off and make up for my lack of taking care of it for years! I will try and take a picture of it this evening when I return home.

Sorry it took so long to reply,but I forget where I post and it takes me a while to find the respnses LOL. I have 7 chameleons right now,but that is down from 13.I am soon to be adding to my collection.I have 5 melleri chameleons and 2 veileds.I like working with chameleons from cool,montane conditions and many are very difficult to acclimate.I enjoy th challenge and sense of accomplishment I get from taking an emaciated and brutalized animal and making them healthy again.The melleri get about 2' long,but there are unconfirmed reports of them reaching 38''.Melleri are unique,in that,they communicate with infrasonic vibrations and appreciate social conditions in captivity.They know me and eat from my hand,where a new person will cause them to show stress.They are housed in a 20'L X 6'W X 6'T cage in my basement with mercury vapor bulbs providing all of their light needs and the need of the many plants as well.There is one window,but it is shaded by the house above and allows very little light.I recreated a montane jungle for them by running an automatic mist system throught the cage and supplying lots of suspended branches and plants.I am VERY careful about what fertilzers and pesticides get used in or around them.They are very sensitve to toxins,b/c the have tiny kidneys compared to their size and are easily poisoned.The temps are around 78F with warmer basking spots and night drop to 68-70F,which they like to have.A tentative list of plants that are in with them include,2 ficus 'ali',a florida strangler fig,banjo leafed ficus,fish-tailed palm,schefflera,draceana,pothos,mistletoe fig,and numerous other small plants.The chameleons are in that set-up during the cool months and are outdoors in warm months in custome cages, I built with shadecloth.I do have pictures,but I am a victim of Kodak's software that will not let me share,except via e-mail.I will be glad to send pix to anyone interested.The chams don't eat plants,but occasionally get the notion to browse a leaf or two.They will accept hand-fed greens like mustard and turnip though.I breed 9 types of tropical roaches for them to eat,as well as my own crickets,stick insects,and other fare.They also get silkworms and hornworms on occasion.They are a lot of work(this species),but I enjoy them and they complement my plnat keeping by having the same or similar needs to the plants.E-mail me at extensionofgreen@yahoo.com for pictures and visit www.melleridiscovery.com to learn more about melleri.That site is run by my friend Kristina,and I have two of her captive bred babies.It is a great site.

"The reason to remove the soil was so that the drainage and moisture retention would be consistant throughout the medium. The concern was that a mass of dense potting soil would not get wet enough (or would possibly stay too wet), as the water rushed through the faster draining CHCs or bark mix surrounding the old root ball/soil mass. But, with all the repotting I've done, I've seen that the roots naturally reach out, grow through and surround all the CHCs/bark with astounding speed. So the possible watering problem (by not removing old soil) has *not* manifested itself. The plant fills the new pot rapidly with healthy roots and gets nourishment and moisture easily. " Lisa: we are in sync of the reasoning why I have not done so removing the soil of the old pot. I believe that the citrus roots will seek out the moisture/water for survival so if the water is in the new sorrounding CHC mixture the plant will send out new roots to seek where the water is in a hurry. So in no time you have a tremendous new roots going everywhere for water search. I believe the plant can sense where the water is. A case in point- roots imbedded in the sewer joints inside the pipe. Also I've seen roots that travel 5 to 8 times its height.